The End of the Ultra-Slim Wedding Suit For several years, men’s formalwear was dominated by narrow lapels, short jackets and trousers cut close to the leg. The style created a sharp outline, but it often left little room for sitting, dancing or eating comfortably. Current tailoring is moving towards a more balanced shape, with cleaner shoulders, a defined waist and trousers that follow the leg without gripping it.This change does not mean that wedding suits have become oversized. The newer approach sits between skinny and loose. It keeps the structure expected of formal clothing while allowing the cloth to hang properly. For grooms, that balance is useful during a day that may involve a ceremony, photographs, dinner and several hours on the dance floor. Look For Shape Rather Than Tightness A well-fitted suit should create a clear outline without relying on tension. Collections of Marc Darcy suits include tailored three-piece designs, checks and textured fabrics that suit the current preference for visible structure and considered proportions. The jacket should sit close enough to define the waist, but the front button should fasten without pulling the cloth into an X-shaped crease. At the shoulders, the seam should finish close to the natural shoulder point. Extra width can make the jacket look borrowed, while a shoulder that is too narrow may cause the upper sleeve to collapse. Fit should be assessed while moving as well as standing. Reach forward, sit down and raise both arms. A tailored jacket will never feel like casual sportswear, but it should allow the groom to carry out ordinary movements without sharp restriction across the back or chest. Give The Jacket Enough Length Very short suit jackets became common alongside skinny trousers, but they can disrupt the proportions of a three-piece outfit. If the jacket finishes too high, the waistcoat may appear longer than the outer layer and the trousers may look as though they begin too low. A more traditional jacket length usually covers most of the seat and divides the body more evenly. This can make the legs appear longer without shortening the jacket excessively. The correct length depends on height and body proportions, so two men wearing the same chest size may still need different jacket lengths. View the suit from the back and side rather than relying on a front-facing mirror. The vents should lie flat, and the hem should not lift away from the body. A side photograph can reveal an unbalanced jacket more clearly than the changing-room mirror. Choose Trousers That Fall Cleanly The move away from very tight tailoring is most noticeable in suit trousers. A modern tailored leg can still be neat at the ankle, but it should provide enough room through the seat and thigh for the fabric to fall without horizontal lines. Trouser pockets offer a useful fit check. If they pull open while standing, the waist or hips may be too tight. The fly should lie flat, and the waistband should remain in place without depending on an overtightened belt. Higher-rise trousers can work particularly well with a waistcoat because they reduce the chance of shirt fabric appearing between the two pieces. The hem should make gentle contact with the shoe rather than gathering heavily around it. A short hem can work with narrow trousers but taking it too far may make the suit look dated once the current cropped style moves on. A slight break is easier to wear with different formal shoes and tends to look balanced in full-length wedding photographs. Let The Waistcoat Support the Silhouette A waistcoat adds structure through the centre of the outfit, but only when it fits correctly. It should lie flat against the shirt and cover the trouser waistband. Tightening the back strap cannot correct a waistcoat that is the wrong size or too short. Current three-piece styling often places greater emphasis on the waistcoat. Double-breasted designs, contrasting fabrics and wider openings can distinguish the groom without requiring a brightly coloured jacket. When the groom removes the jacket later, the waistcoat keeps the outfit looking complete. Allow room for a full meal and several hours of wear. A waistcoat that feels acceptably close during a brief fitting may become uncomfortable at dinner. Sit down with every button fastened and check whether the lower edge presses into the waist or causes the front to bow. Use Stronger Lapels Carefully Wider notch and peak lapels are returning after years of extremely narrow designs. A broader lapel can frame the shirt and tie, balance the shoulders and give the jacket a more formal character. Peak lapels create a particularly strong line on double-breasted jackets and evening suits. The lapel width should still suit the wearer. A very broad lapel can overwhelm a smaller frame, while an extremely narrow one may look out of proportion on a broad chest. The shirt collar, tie width and lapel should relate to one another without matching exactly. A wider lapel also leaves less need for decorative extras. A simple buttonhole flower or plain pocket square may be enough. Large lapel pins can crowd the upper part of the jacket, especially when the cloth already contains a check. Avoid Buying According to the Size Label Alone The same labelled size can fit differently across designs because cut, fabric and construction affect the garment. Begin with accurate chest, waist, inside-leg and approximate jacket-length measurements. Compare those figures with the retailer’s size information rather than ordering the size worn in another brand without checking. If the jacket fits at the shoulders but needs slight shaping through the waist, a tailor can often make the adjustment. Sleeves and trouser hems are also commonly altered. Major changes to the shoulder line or jacket length are more difficult and may not be economical. Do not choose the smallest size that can be fastened. A suit that looks tight in the fitting room is unlikely to become more comfortable during a long wedding day. Cloth should skim the body and return to a clean position after movement. Balance a checked suit with simple styling Texture and checks remain popular in wedding tailoring, particularly for country houses, converted barns and traditional venues. These fabrics already add depth to the outfit, so the cut should remain controlled and the accessories relatively quiet. A plain white, pale blue or cream shirt gives a checked suit a clear foundation. Choose a tie from one of the secondary colours in the cloth rather than introducing another strong pattern. A white pocket square works when the suit contains several shades and does not need further decoration. Shoes should support the proportions of the trousers. A very slim shoe may appear too small beneath a fuller hem, while a heavy casual sole can pull attention away from the tailoring. Oxfords, Derbies and refined brogues usually provide enough visual weight without looking bulky. Coordinate the wedding party without forcing one fit Matching groomsmen suits can become difficult when every member of the party has a different build. Insisting on an identical close fit may leave some men comfortable and others visibly restricted. A better approach is to keep the cloth, colour and main design consistent while adjusting jacket and trouser sizes for each person. The groom can stand apart through a waistcoat, lapel shape or accessory rather than wearing a suit cut much tighter than everyone else. This creates a connection across the group without treating one silhouette as suitable for every body. Arrange fittings early enough to identify size and alteration issues. Group orders should be checked well before the wedding, particularly when trousers need hemming or jackets require sleeve adjustments. Each person should try the complete outfit with the intended shirt and shoes. Judge the suit by the whole day A wedding fitting often lasts less than half an hour, while the suit may be worn for twelve hours or more. Comfort should therefore be tested under realistic conditions. Sit for several minutes, walk upstairs and check the waistband after moving around. Pay attention to the parts that cannot be seen clearly in a mirror. The collar should remain close to the shirt at the back of the neck. Jacket vents should not pull apart, and the trouser seat should follow the body without sagging or strain. The current move towards balanced tailoring gives grooms more room to choose clothes that look formal without feeling restrictive. Clean shoulders, a shaped jacket and trousers with a natural fall will outlast extreme proportions. A suit that allows the groom to stand, sit and celebrate comfortably is also more likely to look composed in photographs taken throughout the day.

To prepare your fireplace and chimney for winter, schedule a professional inspection and chimney cleaning. The temperatures are just about right to either fire up those logs or turn on the gas fireplace. Either way, you don’t want to miss out on a cozy night in front of the fireplace. But why is it important to prepare your fireplace and chimney for winter? That’s what we going to talk about today, everything from the damper, to chimney cap to what to look out for and what to repair now. The team at Superior Chimney is ready to share practical tips for getting ready for the cold to start. Why is it Important to Prepare the Fireplace for Winter? Your fireplace works hard during the winter. Using your fireplace just on the weekends or everyday while you relax causes system stress behind the scenes regardless. While providing you warmth and comfort, the fire in the fireplace creates a byproduct called creosote, which is sticky and gives off a smokey smell. All winter long, this will be slowly building inside of the chimney walls. Now that’s what’s going on inside your home. Outside, your chimney endures the elements every day with the snow, ice, freezing rain, and critters looking for a nice warm place to settle. All these things add up putting stress on the chimney structure. Getting this done now will give you peace of mind and helps your system run efficiently. This way, heat stays in your living room where you want it. Start with an Annual Chimney Inspection The most important step to take now is to get a certified chimney inspection before you light your first fire. A certified technician can identify creosote buildup, cracked flue liners, damaged masonry and blockages that are hard to see from inside and outside the home. The National Fire Protection Association standard for chimneys, fireplaces, and vents calls for chimneys to be inspected at least once a year and cleaned as needed for safe operation (NFPA 211). The Chimney Safety Institute of America gives the same guidance, recommending that fireplaces, chimneys, and vents be inspected annually by a certified professional (CSIA). Ventilation is a Breath of Fresh Air for Your Home Proper ventilation allows your home to breathe. Your home relies on vents connected to the fireplace and natural gas appliances to carry harmful gases such as carbon monoxide safely outdoors. During the winter, snow and ice can pile up around the vents. When that happens, pollutants have a harder time leaving the home. Signs of a Blocked Chimney Vent A blocked vent can cause symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and dizziness. If symptoms go away once you or your family leave the house, that’s a sign of a blocked chimney vent, and it needs to be addressed right away. Be sure your carbon monoxide detectors are in working order and located on every level of your home. Keep the Cold Air Out of Your Fireplace Pay attention to the chimney effect, also called the stack effect, during winter. Warm air inside your home rises to meet the colder air outside. That cold air can rush down the chimney and into your home. This pressure imbalance can also pull smoke back into the room when you light a fire. Keeping the damper closed whenever the fireplace is not working, is one of the best ways to stop cold drafts from entering your home. Have You Tried to Preheat the Chimney Flue? What? What is that? When you are ready to light the fireplace, warming the flue can help smoke travel up the chimney flue and out of your home. Light your gas starter without wood in there for a few minutes or a small bundle of kindling if you don’t have the convenience of a gas log starter. This will warm the air and cold chimney walls within the chimney flue so when the fire starts, it will go up and out of your home (Priming the system). Never roll up a sheet of newspaper, or any paper, and hold it up toward the open damper! The New Critter Home? For many animals, a chimney looks like a warm and safe place from the cold and freezing temperatures. Squirrels, raccoons, birds, bats, possum and other small creatures may try to nest inside. How do you know if a critter made its way in? If you hear scratching, chirping, or the sounds of moving around in the chimney, or a foul smell call a certified chimney professional to inspect the chimney flue. A technician can safely remove the animals and check for any nesting material or structural damage it left behind. Sometimes an animal can die inside the chimney. Typical first signs can be a strong odor, trouble venting smoke, seeing flesh flies or maggots. Any situation, you will want to call Superior Chimney at 877-244-6349 for help. You may want to consider a tightly fitted stainless steel chimney cap with mesh sides is the best long term solution. It keeps wildlife out while still allowing smoke and gases to escape freely. What are Common Chimney Repairs Your chimney stands tall and is exposed to the weather all year long. In winter, snow builds up on the chimney crown and rain always finds its way into small crack in the chimney masonry. Anytime you have spalling or cracked bricks with or without missing or deteriorating mortar, you have a problem brewing with the chimney structure. When water from rain or snow freezes, it expands and widens the cracks. This process is known as the freeze and thaw cycle. Water that enters the chimney can mix with creosote. That’s what creates a musty, smoky smell. A persistent odor from your fireplace is often an early sign that moisture is getting inside, so prompt repairs help protect your home. Don’t Forget the Chimney Flashing Metal step flashing seals the joint where your chimney meets the roof. Over time, it can loosen, rust, or pull away from the chimney. Have a certified chimney professional inspect the flashing each year to confirm it remains watertight. Adding a waterproofing sealant to the masonry and a crown repair when needed gives your chimney lasting protection through the wettest months. The Chimney from Bottom to Top Each year when your chimney inspection is performed, the certified chimney technician will automatically check the firebox all the way up to the damper and out to the exterior chimney itself. The chimney technician will be looking for cracked or missing firebricks, gaps in the mortar joints, and loose pieces within the chimney walls especially if you do not have a chimney liner. The chimney technician is searching for hairline cracks, damaged bricks, ineffective damper, damaged or missing chimney cap to name a few on the 14-point inspection. Because it is difficult for a homeowner to inspect on top of the roof or inside of the chimney as well as know exactly what to look for, it is best to have a trained, certified technician to do it for you. The technician will show you and the office staff will email you pictures so you have an understanding of what the technician has found. Keep Fire Safety Essentials Nearby A few simple tools make a fire experience safer for family, pets and guests. Keep a sturdy metal fireplace screen in front of the opening to catch sparks and embers. Place a fire extinguisher rated for household use in a safe, dry space. If you can have it near the fireplace, even better. Be sure to talk to family members or anyone else living in your home so they know where it is. Test smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors monthly throughout the heating season. Keep rugs, furniture, holiday decorations including Santa stockings at least three feet from the fireplace. This space gives you plenty of room to ensure the fire stays in the fireplace. When it is time to clean out the ashes, wait until they have cooled down… at least until the next morning. Shovel them into a metal container with a tight lid and keep it outside away from your home. Preparing a Gas Fireplace for Winter Gas fireplaces need attention before starting it up too. Have a certified chimney technician check the burner, pilot assembly, gas connections, and venting system before you turn it on for the season. The chimney technician will continue to conduct a thorough cleaning and inspection from bottom to top according to the 14-point inspection. As a homeowner, clean the protective glass front that’s attached or separate from the fireplace only once the unit is cool. Look for any soot buildup, which can be an indication that a burner or vent is experiencing a problem. Frequently Asked Questions How often should a chimney be inspected? CSIA (the Chimney Safety Institute of America), NCSG (the National Chimney Sweep Guild), NFPA (the National Fire Protection Association) and IRC (International Residential Code) all specify a chimney inspection at least once a year. Cleaning is then scheduled based on how much buildup the technician finds. Why does my fireplace smell bad in winter? A strong odor can point to creosote mixed with moisture, a downdraft caused by the stack effect, or an animal in the chimney flue. A certified inspection can pinpoint the cause quickly. Should I close the damper when the fireplace is off or cooled? Yes, once the fire is completely out and the ashes are cool. A closed damper keeps warm air inside and cold air outside. What is the best time of year to have my chimney cleaning? Right now! Scheduling before the first cold snap gives you more appointment options and time for any repairs. Do I need a chimney cap? A chimney cap is critical to the function of your chimney. It keeps out rain, snow, debris and animals while allowing smoke to go up and out of your home properly. Every chimney needs a chimney cap for the same reasons every home needs a roof! Get Your Fireplace Winter-Ready With Superior Chimney A well maintained fireplace is one of the coziest parts of winter. With a yearly inspection, clear vents, a sturdy chimney cap, and sound masonry, you can enjoy every fire without unnecessary worry. Now that you know how to prepare your fireplace and chimney for winter, contact Superior Chimney today to schedule your inspection and sweeping, and enjoy a warm and comfortable season by the fire.