Well I don't think I would have purchased such over grown plants. Planted right away with damaged roots trimmed and plant pinched back they should do OK if kept in the shade for a week or two. Al

I just plant them like they are, try to pry the roots apart a little and loosen at the bottom but don't trim. Actually doing that, maybe it's easier to damage them. Somehow they seem to know what they want to do once they're in the ground. Haven't lost anything from that yet, but sure have screwed up in other ways.

I don't purchase too many in trays but collect the trays and transplant into them seeds I've started with a few exceptions.

That way I can plan more easily and get exactly the variety I want.

But some I would have a hard time growing from seeds, things like impatiens which I haven't ever used, but they certainly have their place in the garden and make a good show.

Thanks for the feedback. aliska - do you mean that you would plant the pack all together?? ("I just plant them like they are...") I don't think these would do too well smashed in their nine pack.
I was also wondering if anyone knows of a good root fertilizer for this issue with annuals. Anyone have ideas?

Thanks for the feedback. aliska - do you mean that you would plant the pack all together??

Oh no, I would never plant the pack. Maybe I misinterpreted what you said there. I do get some torn cells and soil pulling away from the roots, those could be a problem. Not too many like that but try to salvage what I can of it. I thought you were talking about packs that are split where they shouldn't be.

I was also wondering if anyone knows of a good root fertilizer for this issue with annuals. Anyone have ideas?

I've heard some mention here and there Superthrive, mainly in the OGR or propagation forum, but I don't know where I could get it. I've never seemed to need it. Plus I don't want to risk using too much and burning the roots.

I'm certainly no expert, and I have had less than stellar results with some things. I have oversized 6 packs and use a bulb planter but it doesn't work very well in sticky clay soil that dries out easily because the plants are too crowded against compacted earth. But it's just easier and faster. And some are happy and strong anyway.

The best start you can give plants outside is good loamy soil, but many many annuals thrive in poorer soils. I've started using a product called Bloom Booster, not Scott's which is only sold in the UK, will go look on the package. Miracle Gro Shake 'n Feed Bloom Booster. It shows a photo of how much per sq inch compared to a quarter, and you don't have to scratch it in like they recommend for some of those time release round pearly fertilizers.

I save my Osmocote for my planters and can use it indoors. The easiest thing to do is mix in a little compost. Sprinkle some over the top when done planting; nutrients will leach down.

I have a problem area that is very dry because it drains faster than the rest and an old lilac nearby sucks up water. So just today I started using my new "carrots" from Harriet Carter. They are about 5 inches long and you screw them onto a 2 litre bottle. I used a hot knife to cut out the bottoms, was a little work for 12 because the bottoms are tougher, but that way I can pour water in more easily. In addition, the air pressure keeps it flowing. If you put a cap on a gal milk jug and slit the bottom, fill with water, the jug collapses. Leave cap off. But these new things get the water where it is most needed, down in near the roots.

Anyway, I was thinking I would sometimes mix some Miracle Gro in the water I'm drip irrigating with the soda bottles and "carrots". One I could not get down far enough so I got a hammer and huge screw driver and pounded it down, then turned the screw driver to widen the hole. Went right in.

I'm belaboring the point and don't even know how it's going to work here because I just started. The hose won't reach so this will be easier that filling the sprinkling can and get a better soaking I hope. The annual salvias did not do well in that spot last year there whereas the same salvias planted closer to the house did much better. Next I'm going to throw some compost on there then mulch because I should have done the compost in the fall. Maybe some peat, too, tried to till it in but somebody did it for me and poured the peat really sloppy. Blah blah. I'm talking too much, kind of wound up after a long day.

Certain fertilizers are recommended for certain plants. But I don't make a fetish out of it.

The bottom line is you're supposed to use tomato food for clematis near a rose near lilies. I use rose food for the roses, Bloom Booster for the lilies (should scratch in some bone meal when I get around to it), and you know they're going to all mix together.

Do what is reasonable but don't fuss too much. I get more done that way and learn from my mistakes. Then when I find which plants work best in certain areas, I stick with that. I'm only using annuals to fill in until I can get more perennials established. But some are so pretty I want them no matter what.

trace down the stem .... and look where a leaf or side stem connects... if there is a little bud there .... then cut back to the lowest point ...

with total interruption of the root mass.. a hard prune back will reduce the canopy size more in line with the root mass ..

i would NEVER fertilize something where i went to town on the roots ... maybe in a week or two ...

i too would not have bought such stock .. first you look at the top.. then you pop one out of the cell pack.. and if the roots circle a couple hundred times.. its time to put down the plant.. AND WALK AWAY ....

or look under the bench and find the younger stuff ...

good luck

ken

if the roots have packed the tray and tangled, then
just cut them like a cake, such that each plant is in the middle of a square or rectangle.
If the plants are not sensative, you can also break them instead of cutting. even then a sharp knife can be handy.

Soak plants that are overgrown in pots or small packs. By that I mean set the whole pot in water so that the pot rim is under water and leave them for about 20 minutes or half an hour. When plant roots are dry they cling to the sides and bottom and each other. When they are saturated it is not only easier to get them out of the pot but it is easier to untangle the roots and separate them. Make sure you untangle the roots on each plant too. When a plant is root bound the roots hit the bottom and go round and round. The plant can't take up the moisture or nutrients it needs and will continue that way in the ground after they are planted out.