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bettyn_gw

amaryllis questions

21 years ago

I have ten amaryllis bulbs in pots in a bright east facing window. Most of them are producing healthy leaves.

I've had quite an infestation of gnats which seem to be under control at this point. I used the yellow sticky strips.

So here are my questions. If I remember correctly, the evidence of gnats is related to mites - correct? Am I just asking for further problems if I keep these bulbs going? Would it be best to just dump these bulbs and start over? If I do that, is there anything I should do to the window sill area before I bring new bulbs in - like a disinfectant? And - have you ordered from Van Dycks catalog and are their bulbs of good quality?

Thanks so much for your help!

BettyN

Comments (9)

  • 21 years ago

    Hello BettyN,

    No, what you have are fungus gnats. Usually you get these when the soil stays too moist. The larva eat the rotting wood, etc. in the soil.

    I would not throw them out. You can always put a systemic for insects in your soil too.

    If I were you, especially in your climate, I would put them outside. Bring them in when you get any frosts.

    I grow mine outside in full sun here in Z5, but mine are used to the sun. You'd probably cook yours in full sun now. However, outside in the heat and partial sun would be good for them plus it would help dry out your soil faster. Then water when the soil gets a little dry.

    Wildcat

  • 21 years ago

    What kind was the relationship between gnats and mites in your remembrance?!

    I know one - but I found it in one German greenhouse grower book only - a single source therefore; so it is speculative as it sounds so phantastically to me:

    Mites use Sciarid flies as air taxi. One fly can carry several mites.
    This bears a significant implication as the infection pressure to the plants is multiplied by this spreading effect! The tarsonemid mite Steneotarsonemus laticeps = bulb scale mite (ask aunt GOOGLE for further details) is a potent predator of bulbs of members of the Amaryllidaceae family and can finally destroy a whole collection of gardener's amaryllis - as I experienced when I was just 19

    I suggest - air taxi or not - the carefull extinction of sciarid flies. This is performed by exclusive and carefull water adminstering from the bottom and spraying the substrate surface with insect killer sprays with "instant and long term efficiency". THAT works.

    Note that a permanent imission of sciarid flies is to be considered from open windows.
    Particularly these boxes with blooms which are hanging in the air (sorry I forgot the term for the German BALKON) are an unextinguishable reservoir for Sciarid flies!

    Particularly those plant enthousiasts who are raising gardener's amaryllis (as well as other plants) from seeds can in no case afford to have these little critters indoors. The maggots of Sciarid flies eat up the first leaf or drill into the basal platelet of the young bulb and thus damage it lethally.

    The gnats - there are different models in rather different sizes - some being less than 2 mm - have become an unnegligible pest for growers since the widespreading of peat based substrates. I experienced that the attractivity of coco peat substrate is even stronger on them. This is a pity because I found this substrate to be superior to black-peat based substrates.

    But be sure: My recommended spraying method is very effective - I am using a spray which contains propoxur, cyfluthrin and transfluthrin and is legal for indoors' purposes in Germany in order to kill "hidden insects" for example ants and roaches.

    Hans-Werner

  • 21 years ago

    I wonder if they are gnats or white flies? My Amaryllis go into the garden when the bloom is over and they do quite well blooming in the spring in the garden from the following year on. Al

  • 21 years ago

    Wildcat - your comments remind me that I should use a moisture monitor before I water - the soil at the top is probably way drier than at the bottom.

    Hans-Werner - my vague memories about the relationship of mites and gnats I'm sure came from something you posted, but I couldnt remember the specifics. I knew I could count on you for a clear and thorough response. I'm noticing that two of the bulbs have leaves with red streaks - is this big trouble?

    Callistoga - I'm pretty sure they are gnats and not white flies - they are literally darker than white flies I've seen and they seem to stay closer to the soil. One would think that with a California garden, I would have endless possibilities for sunny spots in the garden - the roses have taken over the sunniest areas (even they don't get as much as they would like) and the rest of the garden is pretty shadey - a boon this summer for sure!

  • 21 years ago

    I've noticed red streaks and it never seems to make a difference. I just ignore it or remove the red marked leaves. If the bulb itself is red that's another matter.

  • 21 years ago

    So far, just a few leaves have red streaks. Last growing season I had one flower scape with red dots, but it didn't seem to affect the form or vigor of the flower.

  • 21 years ago

    I break up a mosquito "donut" (get them at a pond store) and place a piece or two in my watering can. It will not kill adults, but it does "do in" the larvae.

  • 19 years ago

    My recently acquired Amaryllis has completed blooming. Now what do I do? Cut it off at the bulb and hide in a dark place? Or?

  • 19 years ago

    Let your soil dry out a bit on top; and you can also use a gnat fungus oil called Sunspray which helps; as does Pyrethrin spray.

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