When you resodded the front yard what soil structure was under the existing sod? Did you do anything to amend the soil under the old sod before resodding. Many times the ground is compacted and heavy with clay rocks and or tree roots. If you have not amended the soil under the sod I would suggest that 1st step and break up the earth add to it gypsum, turface MVP, pine bark fines mixed with the earth. Then resod and water after a month fertilize with Milorganite.

If you want to try minor gardening...take a look at the winter sow forum here at GW. Great way to start perennials flowers that will take a year to develop however a pack of seeds is much lower cost than going to the nursery. Now is the time to winter sow.

You can find Pine bark fines at Home Depot I believe they call is clay amendment fines. Turface will take some searching as it is used by sport field, golf course to improve the sod. If you have a John Deer turf dealer in your area I try them first or Lawn Maintenance Companies.

If you have very little sun light try impatients for a splash of color in front of the perennials while they are growing this year.

Sounds like your idea of a "front yard" involves grass, and only grass. If you are ringed with cedars, you're going to have to come up with an alternative image, because grass and cedars (or any big evergreens) don't co-exist.

Look at the canopy of the trees. However much there is, you have approximately that volume of roots underground, usually shallow and more spread out since the roots want air, moisture, and nutrients.

You can take the steps proposed by Geeboss, but two things will happen - first, the trees may take offense; second, the roots will grow into whatever amended soil you create. Any grass you put in WILL die, it is only a matter of time. It cannot compete. Neither can your Camellias.

If you want anything to grow, only the plants that naturally grow in conifer forests will really thrive - um, that would be ferns. Some people can make other understory plants thrive - I never could, but then the tree I was competing with shed so much debris that the plants were smothered.

One shrub I've seen do well in circumstances similar to yours is Leycesteria - I've seen one planted at the base of a conifer in North Van that is doing well.

Research shade gardens - and forget grass.

KarinL

I agree with Karin - lawns simply will not work in this situation and to keep redoing or attempting to establish one is just going to be an expensive, frustrating experience. But....there's all kinds of other plants you can enjoy and that will successfully compete with the shade cast by the conifers and their extensive root systems that no doubt covers your front yard.

If it is indeed nestled in a woodland setting, then bring the feel of the woodland right into the garden. This is what is usually considered to be a dry shade situation and many of our native plants are well suited to these kinds of growing conditions - salal, Oregon grape, sword and deer ferns, snowberry, and both evergreen and deciduous huckleberries thrive in these conditions. And there are some more ornamental choices that you can include - euonymus, shrub dogwoods, aucuba, nandina, sweet box (Sarcococca) are all shrubs that will succeed in this situation, as will perennials like our native bleeding heart, Dicentra formosa; monkshood, Euphorbia robbiea, barrenwort (Epimedium), hellebores and various species of hardy geranium. In areas that receive the most sun, you could include flowering current, hardy fuchsia, possibly a witch hazel and provided you can supply necessary irrigation, rhododenrons and hydrangeas.

The point is to think outside the typical front lawn bordered by shrubs and the house with basic foundation plantings. If well planned, a woodland garden doesn't have to look messy or "wild", but natural yet groomed and well-suited to the site.

I add my voice to Karin and GG's - a woodland garden is going to work best and can look beautiful. Some of GG's plant suggestions are unfamilar to me here in my colder zone but I quite agree that there are lots of attractive plant options for a woodland garden, even one with conifers.

I agree with the suggested plant choices, but that really has little to do what style of planting you should have. That should not limit you.

Generally, broad leafed evergreens (rhododendron, azalea, euonymus,...) do well in shade, although they tend to bloom less. Needle leaf evergreens generally do not.

If you are wanting the lawn to hold a contrasting space to hold and define your other plantings, there are alternative ground covers that can do that well. Pachysandra may be a good choice. If you are wanting the grass to hold an open space with a usable surface, it gets more difficult.

Thank you all so much! You've helped me greatly. We have dug out 6+ inches of roots, put a drainage basin underneath, replaced the dirt with topsoil and compost and still had no luck. I'm very much looking forward to working with a woodland theme and some of the plants you've suggested.

Yes: It seems you were barking up the wrong tree there, your problem actually being too much shade rather than the soil conditions. My back lawn has gradually given way to moss in one section. I like this better than the grass as it requires no care and remains bright green throughout the year. The remaining grass that is sprinkled through it does still get mowed, this would also be preventing taller plants from coming up in the moss.

A golf course quality lawn from edge to edge may not have been successful, but there is still hope!

From your observations there must be some parts of the yard that did better with the grass than others. I would suspect these to be areas further away from the trees and in regions of more sun.

Limiting the grass to these areas,which are amenable to its cultivation, is one solution. True that area will changes as the trees grow, but if they are already mature it may be somewhat permanaent.

Fitting a grassy island into a cohesive overall design will be your challenge and it may not be needed if the design can be carried with more shade tolerant plantings.

I do agree with Laag that open area should be kept. If you are in a forest then the open space is at premium and a natural gathering point of sorts. Think of a clearing in the forest.

It's difficult to speculate on what could be done regarding a lawn without photos to confirm its suitability. But the situation the OP describes is not at all uncommon in many suburban areas of the Pacific Northwest. And I realize it may be hard for some of you 'down easters' to comprehend given the regional differences, but front lawns here are simply not always a requirement or even feasible in many situations - properties are too small, too heavily shaded or the layout otherwise not conducive. It's not exactly like one is living in a forest but many lots ARE heavily wooded or have surrounding green belts that lend themselves very readily to a woodland garden. It is pretty much the NW suburban character.

And for the most part, front gardens here are NOT gathering places. It's hard to have much of a crowd when the area is maybe only 20-30' deep and perhaps 60' wide and that doesn't account for the driveway taking up a third. Nor do social gatherings lend themselves well to being on display to the neighborhood :-) As long as the entry is well delineated with a welcomingly large enough walkway and landing and the plantings are kept in proper scale, that's all the open area necessary or practical. In many cases, it's this hardscaping that substitutes for the open area a lawn would provide in a different setting.

FWIW, I've created designs for many front gardens that share these characteristics and are completely lawnless and they are attractive features that are entirely site appropriate.

Some older lots have plenty of room but many recently developed properties are nearly filled by the structures.

Thanks for the continued comments. If I can figure out how, I'll post a picture or two. It is a very small lawn, and the grass that has lived has been thinly spread throughout the area. We are currently thinking of a mixture of shrubs, a small corner garden where there is sun and square pavers with moss between them to create a small sitting area. I've had fun looking up information on the suggested plants.

Once again we are working backwards from the answer to the question, only karin touches on another approach.

I don't think there is a generic "front yard" so it is impossible to provide a generic way to achieve such a thing. All of the above are valid solutions to specific problems and as admirable as the generosity is it may not solve this particular problem as we know nothing of relevance to a designer.

What is this space for?

I disagree :-) We know a great deal that is of relevance.....it is a small front yard (read: entry garden), it faces east (morning sun only, what can get through), it is ringed by tall conifers (woodland character) and it is not the easiest to plant because of dry shade cast by trees with wide spreading root systems. And we know the climate and the genus loci....or at least those of us familiar with the area do :-)

In my book, that's a fair amount to go on sight unseen and it seems the OP feels he/she has a better handle now on how to approach the design challenges it presents. I'd qualify that as a conditional success.

Well, I finally figured out that OP probably means original poster--another success.

The yard is approximately 12 feet by 19 feet at the bottom of a driveway, and, yes, totally ringed by cedars. It would only be a gathering spot for a couple of people trying to escape the heat in the summer. We have almost an acre of beautiful backyard for family gatherings. We do want to be able to walk across it to a small side deck and terraced stairs leading to the backyard.

Our goal is to make an attractive entry both for our enjoyment and our neighbors'. I truly appreciate all your suggestions and am so looking forward to spring!

Let me clarify further what I meant by "a natural gathering place of sorts". When you're in the out in "woods", where are you most likely to be in the middle of the thicket of trees with underbrush grabbing at your pants or on a path? How much of a relief is it to see a clearing where you have some space?

When you look at a busy picture, at what calm peaceful spot does your eye rest?

Look at the surfaces of calm spots in your yard that you would like to be in or feel that you can go into, most likely those are not a shrub border.

My comment wasn't meant to be quite literally where you will be putting your lawn chair, as my comment was caveated with if it fits your design needs.

The take home message is that in the midst of clutter, open space is inviting and provides a luxurious contrast to the business around it. Think of this area as a nice spacious and open landing that invites people into home. Such considerations are as true on the east coast as well as the west coast.

Get a local designer to help with your plant selection and layout, as you know the area is difficult and will require someone with experience to work with.

Knowing the area is difficult, I think it is also important to establish just how difficult. You might like to step back and take a long hard look at those trees and whether you have any hope of gardening under them at all. Are they yours or a neighbour's? In most urban environments there is such a thing as a tree having outgrown its space, and if grass wouldn't grow for long after you did that much work, these trees may be getting to that point.

You said cedars - it's often a term used incorrectly around here, but any evergreens will create several sorts of effects: shade, root competition, and debris are the ones relevant to gardening (actually so is shelter from wind, which can create a microclimate). Other effects are more relevant to the health of surrounding structures and personal safety.

Depending on the size and density of the trees, it may just not be possible to garden much underneath at all, at least not to pleasant effect. While my neighbour had a huge Chamaecyparis looming over my yard, my plants always looked dismal - anemic, feeble, and weevil-chewed. Maybe all you can hope for is a nice soft woodland floor. Other plants may be able to co-exist with the trees but it will depend whether they can get established in the root zone of such dominant competitors. (some of the native plants GG mentioned may have the best chance of doing so but may also get too well established - I've heard it said that the entire Salal population of the west coast is actually a single plant :-) and Oregon Grape and Snowberry also can travel underground a fair bit).

Assess the trees carefully before you invest any more time and effort in the garden. Post a picture that includes the trees if you want some help with that.

KarinL