Recycle some wooden pallets (usaully free for taking), before they get made into dyed mulch.

Okay no bites, so I'll finish the rest of lesson for the record.

Pallet configuration will vary depending on source, but the general idea is to use a 4X4 or 6X6 as a header beam and join the pallets to it along its length. The pallets will be joined onto the two face that make a corner of the 4X4. The shape formed will then be a triangle. The pallet boards should run horizontal (or parallel to the hearder beam). Three 4-foot pallets will make up a 12-foot fence section. This type of fence is modern version of the old American Jack Leg fence using recycled materials.

This type of fencing (Jack Leg) doesn't require any post holes, as it simply sits atop the ground.

To take this topic to a design issue, there are more options to fencing then can be found at the box stores or from fencing contractors. Not all fences require post-holes. Jack leg fence, colonial zig zag fences, and the like were all made without post holes or nails.

isabella - thank you for the ideas. This is a new perspective for me. I know about zig-zag, worm, the other early fences but never thought about them. Recycled materials is a good idea as is not having to dig holes.

My first design consideration is to be able to quickly and easily open the fence/gate on the not-so-often occasion I need to get a vehicle in. Two-three rails I can just slide out and later slide back in is what I am looking for. Whether I go contemporary, formal, rustic or historic is still up in the air.

The material for rails as far as sag, durability is something I hope to find out.

You have given me some thoughts about above-ground supports that I didn't have before and suggested new possibilities.

Some pallets become dyed mulch? Really interesting.

Thanks for the help -- Mike

After considering lots of options to suit my situation, I built a post and board rail fence using 5x4" landscape posts with three boards resting in bar holders for quick removal. It spans 11' with two posts. The top board is approx 3.5' above the ground. Stained a muted dark green

To my eye, something is wrong with proportion, general look. It looks like a nice paddock fence, but just doesn't seem to fit.

Is there a rule of thumb for 3-rail fencing concerning spacing of the boards or is it subjective? Any guidance appreciated before I re-build it (maybe). Could post a photo if I can get one that gives proper perspective.

If it matters, my wife thinks it is just fine.

Thanks -- Mike

Post a photo.

Generally the bottom rail is 6-8" from ground surface.

The spacing between rails is typically 2-3X the rail-width.

The fence design is then made by the interaction of the positive space (rail) and negative space (emptiness between rails), bulk of materials used, and finish of materials.

The rail widths can be varied for effect, so there are many design options.

Does a paddock fence go with your modernistic house in suburbia?

rhodium,

Thanks for the rules-of-thumb, just what I hoped for. After a little trial and error, my "fence" pretty well fits them.

I had a 20' opening between two large and old garages along an alley or back street. I wanted to create a relaxed visual separation between public and private space, setting off an area with stockpiled mulch, stone and other materials we use. That space in turn is separated from our yard by a line of arbs.

To allow access while making the separation, my goal was to install a simple gate. A swinging gate just didn't work there. Created an 11-foot gate section and an 8' fixed fence section. I used 5x4 landscape timber posts. For the gate boards I used three 12' 2x4 installed in bar holders for easy removal. The remainder of the fence faces shrubs and the 8' boards are screwed to the posts.

The whole thing is 3' high, I think in nice proportion. As to the question of fence style appropriate for house style, it wasn't really a question as the house is not visible. Instead, I took my cue from our garage which is brick and very long. Extending the line of vertical and horizontal elements of the structure and the brickwork with a modest and friendly modified post and rail worked for me. Stained a darker color, it is unobtrusive, meets its purpose as visual separation, and is highly functional as a gate.

The final product evolved from a simple corral gate I saw, through many pre-built options to something that works in form and function--to my eye. For under $50.

I can post pictures if there is any interest.

Thanks to all for the help -- Mike