I did a little search... see below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Article from Cummins Nursery

I prefer not to fertilize at planting, but to wait for growth to start and fertilize on the surface. Mulch with compost two to four inches thick, keeping three inches away from trunk. Test have proven planting in native soil gets the tree off to a better start than in amended soil. Al

Thanks for the info... I was getting ready to plant in raised bed. Normally, I don't amend for landscape trees but I didn't know if production would suffer if I didn't do it here.

Good info!

Brad

Brad: I'd get the more vigorous rootstock which I believe is G30. But if the option exists I'd want them on MM111 as first choice. It is tested and proven drought tolerant and more vigorous. I have apples here on G16. It is not vigorous enough even on a deep soil. I planted an apple on G30 this spring just to see how it will do.

You might contact your extension agent. There are apple growers in central TX. Your agent should be able to contact the fruit tree specialist and get some first hand info.

You don't need fertile soil for fruit trees- rich soil is for corn. Check your pH though. Maybe do a complete soil diagnostic test.

You do need to have soil, however, so I wonder what you mean by rocky- is your soil reasonably deep? If not, you may want to disregard the advice about soil amendments- I believe that research refers to adding amendments to the planting hole or to establishing full sized forest trees where the amount of amendment needed would be prohibitive.

I have often established and maintained orchards on sites with very shallow soil by the liberal use of compost and mulch- couldn't wait for the mulch to decompose.