Here are the pictures for convenience:

note: I noticed "1)" and "5) Northern Spy" are the same picture.

1):
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2)Macoun:

3)King of Tompkins:

4)some kind of Russet:
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5) Northern Spy:
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MaryJane, congratulations! You've chosen 2 of the most difficult trees to train- N. Spy and Macoun, and you've started the process a couple years late. What are the root stocks?

I am just going to tell you the easiest way to train a fruit tree- remove all branches more than 1/2 diameter of the trunk at point of attachment to the trunk. Do nothing else until trees start to bear, except spread remaining branches to about 70 degrees from vertical. I am talking about scaffold branches- the large branches connected to the trunk.

Obviously that will mean removing most of the branches you have and starting over which also means you'll have to top the trees at the point about 9" above where you want your scaffolds to begin (say 32" above ground). This should be done after trees begin leafing out or the response will be equally vigorous growth of shoots immediatelly below the cut. Of the shoots that start growing after cut, you must favor the strongest growing upright one to continue the extension of the trunk and contiunally pinch back or off any nearly equal sized branches during the growing season.

If you don't care how the trees look and don't mind a lopsided tree for a while, that may have to become an open center, just remove the largest branches when a smaller one is heading within 30 degrees of the same direction. Then spread the remaining branches and otherwise leave them alone until tree starts to bear.

For those who've have heard me suggest removing all branches more than a third the diameter of the trunk instead of half, that is my preferred ratio for vigorous growers like N. Spy and T. King, but I fear these trees will not provide her with much smaller wood.

For further instruction, come back once trees begin to fruit, but I'll only answer if you have the courage to follow my directions which will be hard to do. Macoun must be managed in a unique manner to be annually productive.

Make sure those trees are not competing with weeds or grass and keep a 4' diameter circle free of both with mulch, herbicide or cultivation for each tree. This is most important from April through mid-July or so.