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maryneedssleep_gw

Grafting, Plan B - advice?

15 years ago

I had not planned on moving for several years, but this summer I will be moving to north central PA for work. I am leaving behind a lot of fruit trees that will bear for the first time this year. I am hoping to do some grafting so I can start a new orchard, but I've never tried it so suggestions/critiques on my plan would be appreciated.

I've been storing apple scionwood in the crawlspace of my house, and when everything temporarily warmed up in early March, I ordered rootstock. My trees were beginning to come out of dormancy so I thought I needed to graft soon or I'd lose the scionwood. I was planning on whip-and-tongue bench grafting, because it looks easy.

However, when the rootstock arrived, it was cold again, so I planted the rootstock in 12-gal containers.

Now it's warm again. I put the scionwood in my fridge, although I could have sworn I read somewhere that ethylene is bad for the wood and it's a poor long term plan. (Maybe that wasn't for apple scionwood but some other type of fruit?) What do you think?

Here's the big question: Can I tip the containers over on a tarp, prop up a cutting board under the rootstock, and try whip-and-tongue grafting that way? That's my current plan. Or should I hold out for bud grafting?

I read a Feb post in which Scott recommended field grafting - is that what's I'm trying to do? How is it usually done? He also described his preferred grafting method:

"I often do just a chip bud, and then two weeks later cut 80% through right above the chip and bend the top over to the ground to force the now-dominant chip. When the bud is going prune off the bent-over bit."

(Thread link)

I don't fully understand that. Will there really be enough new growth that the tree is pliable enough to bend in 2 weeks?

Your comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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