That is how you stimulate lower branch development; cut it to 18-24" above the graft point if the caliper (taper) of the scion is 3/4" or less 6" up from the graft point.

If it is larger diameter there is a fair chance there are no viable vegetative buds left to sprout in that range in which case I'd cut it at 36" above the graft point and take what you can get.

Keep in mind this topping is supposed to occur just as the tree is breaking dormancy. If it has broken dormancy for a while, it will weep a lot more and be stressed. Watch out for borers.

Thanks so much! The tree is still dormant so I went ahead and pruned it. I was hesitant because I pruned a new cherry last year and the only branching that occurred was two very small branches. I'm hoping this year it will do something.

What about notching? I would also like to get lower branches on my apricot but wondered if it wouldn't be wise to notch above a removed branch. Once I get a good branch going then I could top the rest of the tree.

If it is a new tree the general rule is to top it where you want to begin your scaffolds. Notching is for more mature trees you don't want to decapitate and is not entirely reliable. I've never used the method on stone fruit and doubt it would work at all with peaches- don't know about cots. I use it on mature apples and pears.

rehabbingisgreen, Yikes. Sorry for highjacking your post. I was just about to post the same question.

Hman, I thought as much. It's too late to get scion from my trees now, most likely, but if I should decide to next year, would a cleft graft using it's own scion produce a tree that I can keep lower?

You can wait until first growth to see if there are viable buds down low and then cut the trunk down as low as you need and the tree lets you.