Assuming that these trees get good sun, there are three things needed for growth: water, fertilizer, and weed control. You should get plenty of water from rainfall unless you have very poor soil. Nitrogen is the primary fertilizer element needed for growth but some mixed fertilizer is warranted in many cases. Finally weeds or grass near the tree compete for water and fertilizer. Large trees nearby can limit growth by competing for everything including light.

A good layer of organic mulch around the base of each tree will help on many fronts. If you can extend this out at least 4ft on all sides that would be ideal.

Can you think of anything else that might be helpful. Do the trees have good green foliage all summer? How is the soil and does it drain well? If you can give any feedback, someone might have further suggestions.

Thanks for your insight. The trees get at least 8 hours of sun per day - with the exception of the cherry, which probably gets a lot more. The apples and peaches do have a thin stand of oak behind them which shade them in the morning. We have really sandy and rocky soil. It drains very well. I usually only water the trees when we have a stretch of really hot dry weather in the summer. They've never looked water-stressed to me, though I suppose I may not recognize it? Last year I had some problems with some sort of rust colored disease on the leaves. I used a dormant spray this spring, so I'm hoping that will help. I also have some fungicide (chlorothalonil) on hand. I've been using the miracle-gro fruit tree spikes, though I'm starting to think that's a waste of money. I have some 10-10-10 fertilizer, though I'm not sure how much or when to use it.
The trees, however, are not mulched at all, and have a fairly thick ring of grasses growing around them. I suppose I ought to start by mulching around the trees - I could extend it to 4 feet around each tree. I'm starting to think the oaks behind them might be part of the problem...

They may not be getting enough water. Put 6" of wood mulch down to hold water better and add organics over the years. Throw on a couple cups of 10-10-10 every spring.

Scott

Rocky, sandy soil isn't going to hold much water or fertility. Grass and trees nearby contribute to the problem. Follow Scott's advice and water more during dry weather. In our dry climate here in Texas, trees are normally like yours because people don't water enough.

1st... It's not all a bad thing... Shorter fruit trees are *WAY* easier to care for... You need to decide on whether you want a 45' tall shade tree that produces a dump truck full of apples... or a shrub that produces a basket of apples...

But.. if you want them to shoot up like a rocket....

Might I suggest you do a soil analysis....

Though, as Scott mentions -- It could be something as simple as too much drainage sucking all the water away from the roots.... or those Oak roots sucking it all up...

Also.. Be careful of damage to the trunk by things like lawnmowers and weed whackers...

Otherwise, there are published fertilizing schedules for fruit trees.... Those tree spikes are usually used for indoor trees in pots.... (Kinda pricey too...) I would guess using something like 1 lb of 10-10-10 (NOT WEED and FEED) per tree scattered around the whole drip line here in the spring would kick them off good...

Definitely spread a good ring of mulch as well -- a 5' circle around the tree makes mowing all that much easier...

Thanks

John

Thank you all for the excellent advice. I believe I can get free compost and wood chips from my township's composting facility. I'll start with that and the fertilizer and see what happens. I know that my apples are on a dwarfing rootstock, so I don't think they'll ever get over 12 feet tall - and less with pruning. I would like to see them a bit bigger than they are now, though.
John - It's funny that you should mention lawnmowers and weed whackers. After losing one young tree to those, I've been a little overprotective of them since. As long as I don't become "that crazy tree lady" down the street...

I'm in the same boat with many of my trees. My Che finally started growing last year (after 3 years of less than 3 inches of new growth) and it finally put on about 5 feet of growth last year.

My jujube's are practically the same size they were when planted, and some of them are 3-4 years old. I am planning on being pretty aggressive with watering and fertilizing once temperatures are more reliably warm (past the last frost date). I've got a couple trees whose growth has been great, but they are not in the majority.

One apricot I planted 6 years ago hasn't grown at all, it leaves out, looks good and comes back each year nice and all...but I suspect that this particular tree's location is the problem (though this will be modified this year as I am cutting down a tree which has been shading this particular tree since just after it was planted.

~Chills

This may seem like a dumb question, but could you clarify what you mean by "adding organics over the years"? Does this mean top-dressing the area with a good layer of compost each spring, or is there digging involved? Thanks.

Growing in clay or too much rain/water, will stunt their growth. Cherries and peaches need a sandy soil to really shine. But if they are growing a little and producing fruitÂI would let it be.

If the Bing is flowering, but not producing, you may need a pollinator. Is the Stella nearby?

Well, sandy soil I certainly have. Elberta peach has produced, but the saturn hasn't. Neither has the cherry. The Bing and Stella are actually grafted onto the same tree, so I imagine they ought to be close enough to cross-pollinate.

Hmm if both are flowering, it should produce at least a few.

Also, All your peaches dropped Â..or just a few, did you see any bugs on or in them? They sometimes drop if not thinned or they hit a dry spell.

Some compost tea might help with the growth issue on the Cherry and Peach.

No bugs on or in the peach. It dropped them all when they were still very small (dime sized). I'm wondering if the tree was too young? This will be its 3rd year.
The cherry is just finishing blossoming this week-- I'll monitor it and see if it produces at all this year.

No bugs or water stress, my guess would be you need to thin the peaches. If you do not thin the fruit, many will drop. Even after thinning, some peaches will still drop off.