I've never used this product but you need to know that sand does add weight to your finished product. And, it also depends on what this mix costs. Portland cement is anywhere from $7 to about $10 a bag, depending on where you are. So, if you like the look, it performs well and the costs are about the same, let us know how it does. But, I make alot of projects and I need to pare my costs down as much as possible, so I stick with portland cement, perlite and peat moss.

Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking that sand was a good thing to use for strength, but it seems that most don't use it anyway. Now I wish I had not bought this mix!

As long as we are talking about mixes, let me add my caveat - from the school of hard knocks. If you ever get tempted to use some of the quick setting concrete mixes - DON'T. I made a LOT of garden art that was poured into molds - and about 70% of it broke to bits over time. I am not certain why. I had made pavers, as well as cute little stupid things...lady bugs, etc. Not a good plan. My hypertufa never did this,peat/perlite/portland cement, nor did any of my 100's of leaf impressions which were made of portland cement, sand, and bonding mix. I have even used regular premixed concrete for pavers without any problems. The BAD stuff is the quick setting stuff.

I have heard that some people have used the premixed products. I beleive it should work. It is not my 1st choice. The sand does make the hyptertufa heavier and I am not sure how much sand is added in their bag of product. The upside of the premix is that it comes in smaller bags and is easier to handle.
I prefer to get the portland cement, and then add the exact amout of the other ingredients ( perlite, peat, sand ...) in various proportions.
You will find that everyone has a different formula for making this. I use portland, potting soil (peat), perlite and or vermiculite. I usually use 1 part each. I suggest that you try many differnt ways until you find what works best for you.
I recommend that you do not use concrete to make hypertufa, neither the regular kind or the fast setting kind will work well for hypertufa. Concrete has gravel included and it will be very heavy when done and it is not easy to shape after you take it out of the mold.
Below is a one of my experiments. I used peat, perlite, and portland I mixed two batches with different color added to each. If you do not want the small chunks of peat, use a screen to sift them out.

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Have a nice day -
Mike

Newbies be aware. All you need to make projects are a mixture of portland cement, perlite and peat moss. Any "topping type" mixes, etc, are a way to make it more complicated and it's best to "keep it simple". I don't use fiberglass fibers, admixes, sand, etc. It's all in "doing of it", not buying fancy products. I made all these bird baths with the above three ingredients. They hold water, plants and interesting collections. Keep it simple!

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Valson1, Looks like you have been very busy. I didn't think 'tufa would hold water, but you say it do-hm-mm, I make mine with a cement and sand mix. The small pot on the stand is especially cute!-Wendy

Sorry I spelt your user name wrong! Wendy

I have found that hypertufa holds water nicely. In fact, it holds plants nicely too. I never put drain holes in and most plants seem to thrive in the "tufa". I even use a recipe that uses equal parts of peat moss and perlite and one part less of portland cement. I just use a concrete waterproofer and sometimes it takes more than a few applications. But, I can buy a gallon of it for about $8 and it lasts a looooooooong time. Do you notice the hosta leaf imprint on the center bottom of the birdbath. I just love the blue/green hosta leaves.

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I have been adding small drainage holes in some of my shallow tufa pots as don't want my sedums floating. Your birdbath is very nice, the hosta leaf looks really nice and the small ridges would make a nice non-slip bottom for the birds:)I have made several concrete birdbaths, Portland and sand mix, as I had read here that 'tufa don't hold water to well. I spray water sealer on the bottom of my BB's and if I want a bit of sheen on the inside I use a non-toxic Beeswax paste, don't want to make the birds sick.

Yikes, don't want anyone to read my above post wrong: My mix is as follows: 1 part (plain) Portland cement, 3 parts sand,(no gravel)add water for a browine like mixture, not to wet and not to dry. Wendy

I've made tufa birdbaths without putting any sealer on them at all. I just made sure to pack the tufa really tight together when making them. They hold water great.

Hi all! have a question here on using tufa for birdbaths, you must have had to make these really thick as my understanding is that the whole idea of using tufa is that it's porous and eventually some of the ingredients such as the peat-moss will eventually break down and leave crevices, please feel free to correct me if my wrong on this; now wouldn't this eventually lead to leakage?
To be honest with you all, two years ago or so I came here for information on how to make tufa toughs, pots etc. I was so intrigued with all the CRETE leaves and birdbaths everyone was making I got hooked and made a bunch (if you don't believe me just check my webshot albums)a better word would be obsessed! lol, so now I'm just getting a good start on tufa, no painting...! Wendy

The fact that hypertufa can wick away water, yet hold water makes this a truly great product for garden decor. My plants thrive in tufa pots. I do make alot of birdbaths and fountains and still use my classic recipe equal parts of perlite and peat moss, and 1/2 part of portland cement. Even on some of my smaller birdbaths (with walls of less than an inch), they hold water. I just get some concrete waterproof sealer at Lowe's or Home Depot. I get the stuff that's only about $8 or $9. I may apply it several times, but it eventually holds. It still keeps my projects light, yet functional. The birdbath in the photo is one of my favorites. I even broke off a piece when I unmolded it and then "tufa glued" it back on. I was careful not to handle this part when I carried it to its pedestal and I haven't moved it since. I placed a smaller tufa bowl with a plant in the center and it's a focal point for my front patio. Yes, tufa will hold water. And, for plant containers, I never drill drainage holes. I've never found it necessary.

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My tufa birdbaths are about 1-1/2" thick. The peat I use is very fine so when it does deteriorate it only leaves small holes which don't go all the way through the walls. And I do really pack the tufa together tightly.

Some very nice looking bowls above.
tufameister & valolson1, thanks for all the tips on tufa birdbaths, I'll have to give this a try-out, 1-1/2 thick hmm-m, I'll have to write this in my new tufa notes!
What do you use for mixing tools for this? I generally use a sturdy metal trowel but find tufa ingredients quite stiffer than mixing the crete mixture, and I do screen my peat.
Have 5 tufa items finished and curing, I'm thinking of adding 2 or 3 pots to my leaf collection along with a couple of other different items that I have made for my spring event booth that's coming up in June. Well thanks again- Wendy

Wendy, I just use my gloved hands to mix. I've tried using a metal trowel too but think I do a better mixing job with my hands.

I have always mixed my ingredients in a wheelbarrow and use a hoe. If it's just a small amount, I use a large plastic bowl or dishpan and mix with my hands (with gloves on, of course). I've never sifted my peat moss. I just unclump it as I take it out of the bale. I've had the same birdbaths for two or three years, so if the peat moss gradually leaves holes, it's never affected the way they hold water. I've found tufa just gets like stone after a few years and it's about as maintenance free as stone. That's one of my selling points when I sell my products. You can leave it in the yard year-round.

The birds love the birdbaths because I leave nice wide ledges.

Thanks for the info, I often do mix dry ingredients with gloved hands but always used the trowel after adding the water, I will give this a try. I told my DH I need a mud box as he tells me the wheelbarrow has to stay at our tree farm(60 miles NW)I do have a hoe!! For the past two winters I have left three painted cement birdbaths outside, covered first with styrofoam then taped over with heavy black plastic bags; we've had a couple of bad winters here and they've winter though just fine, I have never covered Asian Lanterns also painted leaves hanging outside which survived-and this past one was a real bad one, I think the crete stuff is tough also. I wouldn't think in this climate one would be able to leave uncovered tufa birdbaths either without it cracking badly, or Valoson1 were you speaking of down south? Wendy

Another good mixing tool is one of the older sturdy potato mashers - the kind of thing you find at the thrift store. Works great!!!

wannadanc & tufameister, thanks for the helpful tips! I do have an old PM in my kitchen I can use, I'll have to give this a try also! I just remebered, I need to buy a new one any ways, lol thanks again.