Why not just pour a slab like this:
http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/diy/countertop.shtml

I can't see any reason why you couldn't paint the surface - our old kitchen table was just painted with oil based paint.

Regarding the melting glass, you might find that such a large area will crack due to differential cooling. Perhaps use 'liquid glass' two-pack instead?

The paver tile, and your description of instalation is very doable. I especially like the idea of the stream down the center. There are sites that sell paver molds, 8x8...10x10 etc. They come in 1 1/2 to 3' thick. If interested email me and I will send you the link.

Another great source for information on Concrete counter tops is Buddy Roades in San Fransisco. He is considered the Master by many. Not only is there a wealth of information on his site, he sells all the products you need.

Have you thought of using acid stains or some other topical color treatment that would be more permanant than paint?

Here is the link:

Here is a link that might be useful: Buddy Roades

Can you really melt glass with a little butane torch? I can hardly wait to go try. Are there any dos and don'ts?
Laura

You might be interested in using broken tempered glass for your river of glass thru the concrete tile countertop. Ellen Blakeley is a mosaic artist who has done lots of beautiful things with broken safety glass. You can paint the bottom side of each piece or apply it to a painted area... possibilities are endless. Here is her website - be sure to explore around... on her home page she explains how she does the work.

http://www.ellenblakeley.com/gallery.htm

Laura

I had a concrete counter installed in my bathroom last year and everyone I talked to in the process said the same thing--concrete scratches too easily for use as a kitchen counter. But if you know that and are OK with a rustic look, go for it! I'm intrigued by the melted glass idea as well. However (here I get to be a poo-pooer again, sorry, I'm not really like that!) having worked with glass I can predict it's probably going to crack as it cools. Maybe better to go with the mosaic approach.

My two cents worth (and worth every cent of it, but no more): Read up on the structure needed to support this project. Think about using a product like Hardibacker as your base (probably in addition to your plywood, not in place of it).

I truly love your notion of the design, but suggest you may be able to work best with the single medium of concrete rather than mixing in glass which has special problems. The acid stains can be fabulous. Boy I wish I could be a fly on the wall for this project!

David

Thanks for all you responses. I really want to use 10x10" squares, because that gives me almost all the finagaling I need to do. I've made beads and blobs of hot glass with a hot torch before, so thought that would add an extra touch, but it's not necessary. I could certainly do a glass mosaic right on the concrete pavers, OR make my design, then cut out the appropriate concrete so the glass fit into the design. I'm supposing the paver/tile would need to be 1" thick?

Laura, I LOVE Ellen Blakley's site! Actually, the broken safety glass gives a lot of movement depending on what's painted/applied on the underside. And Creteman, Bobby Rhodes'liquid colors are wonderful? The earth color (which looks like a warm adobe color to me), with blues, purples, etc of broken glass in a rivlet down the center is almost mor than I can take. Do you guys think I need both Hardibacker and plywood as a base?

If your island is 30 inches by 80 inches that would be 24 tiles by my calculations (always worth rechecking any of my calculations!) You could easily determine the weight by making one tile and weighing it. That would give you more of an idea what kind of support you might need.

How about this idea.... cut 1/4 inch thick hardibackerboard into 10 by 10 inch squares (easy - you cut this stuff by scoring and bending). Make your tiles by smoothing concrete over the backerboard til you have 1/2 inch total thickness. Do whatever texture, color, etc you want - cure them - apply to your island with thinset. I made a couple of test tiles last summer and tossed them somewhere in the yard (must go find them!!) to see how they would weather all winter because I was going to use them outdoors. Last time I looked they were great - no warping, no cracking, no popping thicker texture decorations off...
The advantage here is very light weight.
Laura

I couldn't stand it... had to go outside with the flashlight and dig thru the flowerbeds til I found this tile. I scraped the mud and ants off and gave it a shower with the hose and photographed it. All 3 photos are of the same tile. I tried to show the texture and thickness. Size is 12 by 12 inches.
click on photo to enlarge
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Laura, what mix of concrete did you use? I was thinking of resurfacer+sand, because it would already have some polymer stuff in it. I made some masks and leaves using it and they were very smooth with a lot of detail. What did you use to color the tile you show? The colors are great! You have me very revved up! cj

cjcj... honestly I can't remember any answers to your questions. Looking at the tile I know I used gray portland/sand/water and maybe some of the liquid acrylic admix they sell at lowes (and everywhere else). The proportions have escaped my mind entirely but one part gray portland to 2 and a half parts sand would be close. I think any recipe you would try would work fine.

The irritating thing about hardibackerboard is that at first you don't think the concrete is going to stick to it. The board has concrete in it so you know it has to adhere but it just doesn't look "right". go experiment a little. Any technique I have used has worked. I have "painted" the surface with slurry first. I have just slapped a glob on and waited and that worked. I have brushed the board with bonding liquid first and that worked. I have sprayed the board with water first so it won't suck the moisture out of the concrete and that worked. I have used quickwall with fibers - my mix of portland with fibers.... both worked. I have used the board as a substrate for a mosaic of odds and ends by laying on a thick coat of concrete and embedding metal, glass, tile, mesh, etc objects in for a test. The only thing that didn't work there was the leather I added on top and I never had much hope for that.

The colors were very watery washes of the typical little plastic bottles of 79 cent waterbased hobby paints.

I hope any of this helps. Please go make a bunch of tiles. I need the inspiration of seeing some more ideas!!
Laura

So how did this project turn out? I am so curious. This is exactly what I have been thinking of doing. I love the look of stained concrete and would love to tile my kitchen counters. I don't want to pour a slab because the weight would require reenforcement of my existing cabinetry.

Please, do tell!

Thanks,

Catherine