I sent you an email... you might wanna check if it landed in your 'junk mail'.

Marly

I am so sorry you had such a bad experience. But please don't give up. First, for a leaf, I never use a hypertufa mix. The peat will take away your details!! I mix 1 portland, 2 fine sand and mix it to the consistencey of Yoplait yogurt. Then I let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Then I stir it, bounce the bucket on the ground for 10 minutes to get rid of air bubbles, then put a pile in the center of the leaf and tap at the concrete mix and it starts to spread to the edges. Patting ensures it goes into the veins, etc, and gets out more bubbles. If it is a large leaf, I put some of the fiberglass mesh on top and pat that into the concrete or even cover with thin coat of concrete mix. Then I cover it with damp paper towels, a plastic box over it, and let it set up over 24 hours. Then, of course, I keep it damp as long as I can (some recommend 28 days for strength, and I would do this if you want strength. The longer concrete stays wet/damp, the stronger it will be) To strengthen my stepping stones, I have mixed a batch of hypertufa and painted the back of a leaf that has set up for 2 days with bonding agent, and applied 2 inches of the tufa mix. This gives my stepping stone strength, but less weight than pure concrete mix. As to your other problems, what was your mold? Concrete really sticks to metals. I usually cover with plastic (and for this I really like the kind of wrap that has stickiness to stick to the mold a little) then I apply a thin coat of release agent (and I do use vaseline!!) and my project usually comes out fine. I wish you luck, but give it another try!!!! BB

"I probably didn't mix it right, 1 part sand, 1 part peat, and 1 part crete.... "

We ask this every time but did you really use CONCRETE or portland cement in your recipe? Concrete is portland cement, sand and gravel.
Are you talking about two different projects; a leaf casting and something made in a mold?
You say your leaf didn't turn out right. What didn't turn out? The details of the leaf? It's too flat? It didn't cure? Was this a leaf used for an imprint in a mold? What recipe did you use for the leaf casting?
What is the mold made out of, plastic, metal, wood? Is the mold smooth or are there ridges that would keep your piece from releasing? How soon did you try to unmold? More details would be helpful. Billie

Please don't give up; I tried again and again until my first leaf success. What I did learn from this forum some time ago - use cooking spray on leaf before applying cement mix. Really helps with release!
Back to the mud hut!
LU

NCgardengirl,
No failure. Your materials were pretty inexpensive and consider the learning process priceless!

the recipe or mix does makes a difference, in how wet it should be, how much detail you will get out of it, how strong it is, etc......

Mixing and how wet is wet or too dry is a matter of practice, and some preference. What ever the recipe that you use it is a good idea to let it sit "slak" for about 10 minutes. It is just enough time to go to the bathroom, get a drink of water and check the 'recipe' card again. Once back to the mix; mix it with your (gloved)hands again. Some like theirs to be yogurt, me I prefer toothpaste consistency. You can adjust your mix with the spray bottle of water that you have beside you that way you do not over adjust.
I put my mix at the top broadest point of the leaf and gently push it down toward the edge, I also pat it firmly to release some air and get it into the veins. I keep adding mix until I have the thickness I want. Once near the edge all around, I use the edge of the leaf to 'neaten' up by using the leaf to curl in toward the mix, some use the plastic that separates the sand mound from the leaf.
I have used damp paper towels but in my case they wicked the water and then firmly stuck to the back of the leaf. I prefer to brush the back of the leaf overall with a little bonding agent mixed with water, I shake out the brush so it is almost dry. Then cover with plastic. Come back every so often and mist it and cover again. Even when it appears dry it still needs water.
I have used Pam on the leaf, but have not found it successful or advantages. Some of this is trial and learning from it. I hope you will try again and recognize your successes!!!
Happy casting,
Dena

Are you anywhere near Kernersville, NC? I'd be happy to have you come over for a lesson! I usually make troughs, pots and bowls, but I just did my first EE leaf and LOVE it!!! You're welcome to play in the mud with me if you like.

Cami - AKA Puddle of Mud

I too tried my hand at tufa! Making a lantern like I saw here. The top part looks pretty good but fell apart when I picked it up. I patched it with seal bond and hope it will stay. I don't know if I needed more water but it doesn't look like it's going to get very hard. If I ever finish it I will post pics. PS I used the recipe of 1-1-1 of portland, peat and vermiculite.

In my opinion there needs to be some sharp particulate matter for the cement to surround and bond to especially when making something structural or that will be left in the elements.
Another option would be 1 cement 1 peat 1 vermiculite and 1 sharp sand (play sand or masons sand would be options). This still makes a lightweight product that can be turned out fairly soon and the surface can be carved or roughed up.
Dena

Thanks everyone!!!
I used Portland Cement, that is what I have always known as crete, it is the only thing I classify as crete, really true anyway.
The sand was white play sand.
My project is stuck on the mold I used, it was a glass cover for a ceiling light fixture. I used plastic to cover the glass first, then applied the mix. It is still stuck, I am afriad to force it, don't want any cuts. There is nothing it could be stuck on as far as grooves or anything. Really don't know what it is unless it is like Marly said and it is suction!
Cami, I wish I lived closer to you I am about 2 hour drive from you! I would love to see someone throw this together in real person!

Ms. Marly will be helping me very soon with that kind of in a way, she is gonna setup a web cam conference for me...
That will be a big help I hope.

I do thank everyone for all the help. After I watch Marly I think I will be in a better mood to try it again, I have a BIG leaf calling my name! (After we get the pond back up and running that is, another MAJOR project in the process of)
Again, thanks everyone, I will let you all know how my next attemp turns out.
THX

Fran, That's where a lot of confusion comes in when you refer to concrete as cement. These are two different items. Just wanted to make sure you were using portland cement.
It sounds like the hypertufa mixture has some how gotten under your plastic lining. If it has, try soaking the whole thing in a large plastic tub of very warm water, OUTSIDE. Don't use your tub in the house.
Is this a glass globe or bowl-shaped light cover? And you placed your mix on the outside not the inside?
If this is a ceiling light fixture, doesn't it have a neck with a ridge in it to attach to your fixture. If this is the bowl-shaped light cover, what did you use to cover the hole in the center.
Got any pictures?
Forget the big leaf; try a small leaf first. Billie

DENA I NEED HELP ALSO! I'M MAKING A LANTERN BUT EVERYTHING IS CRUMBLING. DOES IT NEED MORE WATER MAYBE. YOU GAVE A RECIPE BUT DID NOT MENTION THE WATER. PLEASE ANSWER ME , I'M SO ANXIOUS TO GET IT RIGHT.
THANK YOU SO MUCH
Claire

Hi Claire
LESS water is best.
If you can form a tennis sized ball in your hand that stays together but doesn't drip when squeezed you have the water just about right.
More water leads to weaker tufa.
One part Portland to 3 parts of everything else should give you strong tufa provided you don't use too much water.
Sometimes due to water retention of peat and vermiculite it can take a bit long for it to cure.
How old is your project?
did you keep it damp during the first few days of curing?

Thank you tufaenough, I think maybe I wasn't patient enough, didn't wait more then 2 days to unmold. What do you think/

Hi Claire
The waiting is the worst part about this hobby.:)
Knowing when it's OK to unmold comes with experience.
I always recommend folks make a small test brick at the same time and keep it with your project. You can then test the brick for hardness before unmolding your project.
Adding a bit of Elmers wood glue to your water will help speed up the process as well as making it stronger.

WOW THANKS FOR THE TRICKS !