Tufaenough made a very good point in the post "Strongest Low Cost Recipe" and several other posters have touched on this same subject, so here's a few thoughts and facts I've come across on the nature of sand and our use of it...
"Sand"...is a very broad term that is technically defined as follows...
"Sand is a naturally occurring, finely divided rock, comprising particles or granules ranging in size from 0.063 to 2 mm. An individual particle in this range size is termed a sand grain."
Contrary to what many people believe...it is grain size...not any specific mineral content...that defines what is and is not "sand".
For most of our purposes, it is cleanliness, composition, moisture content and configuration that impact the usability of sand in cementious mixtures. And since they can vary wildly, Masons guidelines are the probably best rules we can follow. Here's a few of their applicable standards along with the usual measure of my own otherwise odd and rambling notes & observations...
"Clean" means reasonably free of debris, dust & dirt and any minerals or other matter that can adversely affect the chemical processes involved in the setting of cement (salts of any kind are especially bad...along with probably half the atomic chart).
"Composition" refers to what kind of rock is dominant...granite, garnet, etc.. Since most sand is a mixture of many different types of rocks that have been ground down by time and the elements, they vary greatly from area to area. High silica content is considered more "pure" and the least reactive. Today, there's also a wide range of "manufactured" sands available. Since the different mineral contents, sizes and shapes that make up the sand all play a factor in the finished products they go into, fabricating sand to a tight set of specifications provides engineers much greater control over their formulations than if they had to rely on natural sources. Even so...it still seems quite odd to think that there are companies who actually earn their living by manufacturing what is probably the most common element on the planet.
"Moisture Content" should generally be low enough so as to have no significant impact on the measured volume of water the mix requires. A good rule of thumb is to consider the moisture content of the sand as being equally critical as the rest of the elements in the mix. In other words, if it is a "simple" mix in which the final water content is not all that important...then it probably won't make a big difference. On the other hand, if you are "engineering" a highly controlled mix that is critical in terms of relative volumetric content ...then it follows that the moisture content of the sand is also critical. Think about it this way...if you are starting with sand that is very damp, ie; has a lot of water in it...you may already have the full volume of water your mix requires! Possibly even more...so check your sand and mix accordingly. Some commercial "ready-mix" companies employ electronic devices that precisely measure the moisture content of the sand specifically for the purpose of determining just how much MORE water is required to acheive the correct total volume in a given mix.
"The configuration" or "shape" of the individual grains in any given batch of sand can range from that of nearly perfect, polished spheres...to sharp, jagged, irregular forms. For most concrete work, "sharp" sand is the most desireable and what Masons consistently specify. And for good reasons that are easy to visualize. Sharp, jagged shapes simply bind together more securely with all the other components than nice smooth little balls ever will. If you think all sand is shaped the same, take a high powered magnifier along next time and see for yourself. Beyond "round vs. jagged", it's not uncommon to find large quantities of stuff other than "sand" in what you are being sold. Beach sand is especially easy to identify, as there will be millions of almost microscopic sea shells in the mix. Absolutely beautiful and perfectly formed complete little shells that are a fraction the size of the head of a pin! Beautiful yes...but not at all what you want in your mix since the salt content goes up along with the percentage of sea shells. Even sand that has been "washed" is not washed well enough to remove the salt that will eventually wreck the concrete it goes into. And just because you are a long way from the sea shore, don't assume your sand supply didn't come from a beach. Remember, at one time or another, most of the earth was under water and there are ancient "beaches" everywhere. Some of the most fascinating sea shells I've ever seen were at a campsite that looms 8700 feet above the desert in far west Texas, near Carlsbad Caverns. The "mountain" known as "El Capitan" in Guadelupe National Park is actually what remains of a massive salt water reef from the Permian Period...and the salt content still remains high after almost 300-million years. Too high for use in concrete.
In conclusion, like everything else you put into your mix, sand plays a role. And it is an important one that is often overlooked even by professionals. A couple of the really savvy old Masons I've spoken with both laughingly pointed out an interesting observation...they both noted that they had observed a lot of PhD's in the concrete business who would spend months and tons of money testing and evaluating all the new "wonder drugs" for concrete...then dump whatever sand was handy into the mix and blame the chemicals if it didn't work out. The best of the old-timers consistently said they never used ANY sand that they hadn't examined under a magnifier AND...tested in solution...both simple processes we all can employ. The magnifier I hope is self-explanetory by now...as for the "Solution Test"...just take a large Mason jar and fill it half-way with a sample of the sand (or any aggregate, for that matter) that is in question. Fill it up to about the 3/4 mark with warm to hot water, secure the lid and shake the fool out of it for at least a couple of minutes, then set it aside to settle out undisturbed for 24 hours. The results can really be surprising. If it consists of clean sand, thats all you'll see when you come back...sand and clear water. If there's a lot of dust, dirt, or any other material present, it will form seperate, visible "strata". Individual layers of different materials formed primarily on the basis of their relative weight. Sticks, twigs & most organic matter will float to the top, as will any oily residue or lighter than water residual material. Shine a flashlight through it and at an angle to the surface and see what's there to see. It's either clean or it's not. Not exactly rocket science or laser spectrography, but it's worked pretty darned well for several hundred years (and yes...they had to use candles way back when).
The other "big mistake" they consistently warned me of making was assuming that the sand suppliers had any idea what it was that they were selling at any given time. Just because they point you to a pile that's supposed to be "sharp" sand, doesn't mean that's what somebody else's truck dumped there. They assume nothing and always check to see what it is that they are actually buying. Hey...not bad advice for a lot of things in life.
I hope someone out there finds something here they can use. My personal views are simple...the more you know about your medium, the more you can do with it...and it's the sharing of what you pick up along the way, that gives the little treasures you find, their only true value. Live large and share...you never know what someone else may be looking for.
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