That looks really good!!!!!

carey

Your mirror looks really good. But may I ask a question? Why not use two pieces of plywood. On your backerboard, place a piece of plywood, and then a smaller one on top of that one(only about 1/2 smaller around all the edges. Make your conrete mirror frame as you did before, but attach all the leaves permanently. After it cures, remove the plywood pieces from the back. The top piece of plywood would have created a hole in the frame so you could see the mirror, like your original project, the bottom larger plywood would have created a small lip so you could insert a mirror from the back, set mirror in place with silicone for something.(A lip kind of like a picture frame has for the glass?? .

Your mirror looks really good. But may I ask a question? Why not use two pieces of plywood. On your backerboard, place a piece of plywood, and then a smaller one on top of that one (only about 1/2 inch smaller around all the edges). Make your conrete mirror frame as you did before, but attach all the leaves permanently. After it cures, remove the plywood pieces from the back. The top piece of plywood would have created a hole in the frame so you could see the mirror, like your original project, the bottom larger plywood would have created a small lip so you could insert a mirror from the back, set mirror in place with silicone for something.(A lip kind of like a picture frame has for the glass?? .

Since I'm working on the same project(mirror is 18 by 24 inches)I was curious how thick your frame was.My early ones are not backed and I went for about 2 1/2 inches.Yours seems much simpler.And,you could,with a rotary tool like Rotozip or Dremel,cut a mirror hole in the backing board for access.
Still,your style looks great!

Rickharmer,
The frame is pretty much the same thickness as the hardibackerboard (1/4 inch). All I added to it was a thin slurry of concrete to cover the front and hold down and hide the 4 by 12 piece of mesh that I put over the wire that goes across the front, out the 2 holes to the back.

I didn't cut a hole in the back because I seem to be out of blades for the saber saw plus I think sawing this stuff is going to create a big mess of dust I don't want to breathe. You can score it and break it easily but scoring didn't seem to work at all for punching out a rectangle inside the main piece. Also, I wondered if it would be stable enough if I cut out the mirror opening. After working with it I think it would be plenty stable cut out as a frame so I will try that next time.

The whole piece (I used quickwall for the leaves) is under 10 pounds. I do like the thin profile on this one. I would also like a thicker frame profile and think I will try building it up with inch thick styrofoam and coating over that to save weight.

Did your mirror get finished yet? I remember we were all talking about the L and L instructions from a TV show and trying to work that out.
Laura

Hi Laura,

I don't think that I can vote for one style over the other, as they both look very nice! BUT you've convinced me to start looking for Quickwall...nice, thin, lightweight leaf castings! Great job!

- Lisa

Not yet.I went to a mold of wood ,and styrofoam in the middle for the mirror.I ran a piece of drywall cornerbead
(metal) for support thru the body of my piece.I'm not happy with the first 2 that I've done,as they're still somewhat weighty!I like what you're doing,though.I could get into that Hardie product,do a much thinner coat(say an inch)and do my leaf application.Mine are going to be fixed in place,and not over the outside edge.this is more for transportation and shipping than looks.I like your idea of a foam filler for thickness,too.
Thankfully,there are smarter people than I on this forum!!
Cheers from here.

Rick, that is why I like this forum so much. Individually we all have our good idea days and our bad idea days.... but , collectively, we are one big genius!
I love the flow of reports on what people are trying to do - and the photos..... they keep me thinking.
Laura

Laura, your frame is just beautiful! You are an artist!!!

I like them both, but #1 has my vote.
Sheree

Laura, every time you post,you come up with more and more beautiful pieces. I liked the #1 better. I just can't understand how could you hide all this talent inside you for that long. Good that the volcano errupted!

Andrea, your #1 fan.

Thanks for all the ideas, comments, and advice.
Laura

Beautiful outdoor mirror! It's hard to pick, but I like No. 1 the best. Did you seal over all the paint, or is that the flash? Very nice color shading.

Jean

Laura, They are both very nice! I like the three-leaf composition better. I think it's because the bottom two leaves are the same, so having two different ones on top gets to be a little too much (just my own preference). I like how you brought the subtle orange of the background into all of the leaves.

Justin

TufaJ, at this point I can't remember if I sealed the whole project with exterior urethane or just the leaves. I think I just did the leaves. Obviously my plan to "remember the details forever" doesn't work. I forget to write notes sometimes.
Laura

Good morning Laura, my computer is still slow in opening up to your pictures but I get the just of what you are saying and it sounds great. I've got some outdoor mirrors on my website that show a similar approach that I've taken. I used fiber cement as well as galvenized or aluminum strips of mesh embedded into the cement as reenforcement rather than backer board just because I wanted a different effect. I did everything in reverse from the back instead of the front. I made the framework/mold to hold the casting. Then I put in a layer of sand to cushion the casting. For a wrinkled effect I sometimes also drape a single layer of dry cleaning plastic into the mold. I embedded the precast leaves into the sand/plastic and then inserted two demensional layers of rigid foam to create a void where the mirror would be inserted from the back. This void also cuts down on the weight of the casting. The first layer of foam creates the shape of where the mirror would be exposed when looking at from the front. The second layer would be straight edged which becomes the same size as what the mirror will be when inserted from the back after the casting is complete. I taper the edges of the foam and lubricate it so that I can pry it out after drying so I can reuse it again. I've left some detailed steps out but I think you can get the just of what I'm talking about. Keep pouring!

John
www.johnsgardencreations.com

John, thanks for the great explanation. I have to try this idea! Your mirrors are wonderful. Do you care to share how you make such a realistic looking stick? (the fossil mirror with water spigot)

Thank you for the photo link to your site.
Laura

Afternoon,Laura.

Well,I tried to make a free form mirror.I used HB board with an opening cut to mirror size.I wrapped mirror in Saranwrap,then piled on the mud!I pushed premade concrete leaves into the border,some overlapping the mirror itself,as does the whole mud application.So,it looks rough,and that look works for some,but not my wife,so...Gonna try another fossil frame,with a mold for the mirror so that it'll look nice and even,all the way around.I'll try that next week.Our local Rotary is having an art auction,so I've donated a couple of pieces...and I'm helping out as well!So,busy until then!!
Cheers from here

Hi,Laura.
Well,so far so good(dispite the design!).After 24 hours,my piece is solid(I use 100% admix.Sets quick!)and to a depth of say 3/4 of an inch over HB board.Doesn't appear to want to come away from the backing,I'll try outside over the w/e in our nasty cold weather.That'll proof it!!
Cheers from a chilly here!

Rick, Your results sound great. I bet I would love the rough design. (and, when you get some photos posted, I will be excited to see them).
Laura

Laura-Through the last little while,your input and innovation has provided at least me with a new area of artistic development,that being mesh/concrete combinations.I daresay others feel the same.You have perhaps,if you will,started a new school of concrete artistry,like faux bois.What would you call it??
Cheers from a contemplative here

Rick, I would love to think I have stirred up some interest with the mesh/concrete combinations. Before I take much credit however, I would have to mention all the sources from which I got various pieces of information about the process. Sherri Warner Hunter (author of Making Conccrete Garden Ornaments) mentioned something called the Polyadam system using scrim and PiI and acryllic additive with no water to create a strong exterior coat of concrete that superceded the strength of the armature when it cured. HUH? I was looking for a way to make a substrate for mosaic work that would stay outdoors so that sounded interesting but I really didn't understand it ...... A couple of years later I saw the dumpster with the fiberglass mesh in it and started talking to the workers and learned about EIFS and the new amazing stucco work being done everywhere. This reminded me of the Polyadam info. Looking into that system I realized EIFS mesh was surely similar and - it came in a dumpster so I could afford to play around with it. With input from people on the forum I have tried some ideas and now we have our own "system" but I suspect it owes a lot to previous discoveries!
I just hope a lot of people play around with the mesh/concrete and share ideas. Fleur found a source for the mesh that makes it cost (with shipping) one dollar a square yard. Now that is a price that allows some playing and experimenting! It might also be smart to check out the Sherri Hunter product called the acryllic additive - in her book she said it far surpassed the products available at local home improvement stores.
Laura

Thanks to BillieAnn,I have read the book.In the world that I used to inhabit,you would have been wise to follow the KISS rule:keep it short and simple.I didn't find the book that way,but it did provide stimuli to continue along certain threads of thinking.Her mixes were interesting and gives a jumping off point to create our own.Being blessed with neither the Polydam system nor Quikwall,I went to a new mix,guessing at the components of the latter.So far,so good.
Just completed some bowls for fountain bases,using my mix and detail mesh and these are far lighter than my earlier creations and appear to be nicely waterproof as well!
But,I wouldn't have gotten this far without this forum's creative minds and dumpster diving abilities!I wonder if Leonardo Da Vinci started this way...
Cheers from here