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fossilnut

Help! Seawall is begging to be fixed!.

20 years ago

I'd appreciate some more help! We have an old cement block seawall that is in dire need of help. I'd guess that it is over 50 years old (contractors tell us that the cabin is somewhere around that age) and the seawall probably dates from then too. The lakeside edges are crumbling in places. Any suggestions on how to strengthen, repair and beautify it? Maps tell us that we are in Zone 5 but the county agricultural agent says that extreme temperatures can reach 40 below and in choosing plants, play it safe and go with Zone 3.

I'm sure the smart thing to do would be to tear it down and do it over again but our situation probably makes that unlikely. Our "new" lakefront cabin sits on a narrow penninsula in NE Washington and because of current setback requirements, NO place we own is buildable (although we can renovate and repair what is already there). The building dept. has shot down virtually every project I mentioned.

I'm afraid that any repairs I do would get demolished over the winters and might do more harm than good. Would really love to cover it all with tufa, like someone here did with an ugly brick wall. The crumbled part of the seawall sits about 2' above the lake level and doesn't get wet much.

Any and all suggestions really appreciated!

Sandy

Comments (21)

  • 20 years ago

    Can you post some pix of the existing wall you want to repair? I'm a concrete guy myself, but doubt that 'Tufa would be the best choice for -40 degrees on a lakefront shoreline. If you can show us what you have to work with, the group here might better be abled to assist.

  • 20 years ago

    Here are pictures of our lakefront cabin. I've looked through all the pictures we took of the cabin and don't seem to have a picture of the part of the seawall that is crumbling. The last picture shows some of the seawall that still seems to be in OK condition. Where it is damaged, the top lakeside cement blocks have crumbled off.

    http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=uploadPhotos&albumID=524509001

    Hope I did this right. I'm a perpetual novice on computers and digital cameras! Side question....how do you paste a picture along with message?

    Sandy

    http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=524509001&ran=24918

  • 20 years ago

    I can't get to your photos - just the website page. Did you choose "public access" for your albums? (or some similar wording)
    Laura

  • 20 years ago

    http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=showPhoto&albumID=524509001&photoID=524588333&security=AKsmCk

    Try the above for the one photo that shows the seawall. Yes, I did make it "public". It works for me but then maybe the site knows it's me. If it still doesn't work, let me know and I'll Email them to you.

    Sandy

    Here is a link that might be useful: Curlew Lake Cabin

  • 20 years ago

    Sandy,
    When you are linking to your webshots album, be sure to link using your community album, not "my album" that is the one where you can edit. You want the one that is accessed by going to the 'community' page.
    Dena

  • 20 years ago

    Covering a wall under those conditions shouldn't be hard.
    Cover it with wire then apply a good quality topping redimix.
    A cement mixer will be required to get a mix that cures completely waterproof and that is essential.
    You could hand apply a decorative tufa finish to this but expect having to repair it from time to time.

  • 20 years ago

    I'll try again to post pictures. The First picture is the one that shows part of the seawall (but not the damaged portion)

    http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=uploadPhotos&albumID=525109883

    Sandy

    Here is a link that might be useful: Our cabin on Curlew Lake in NE Washington

  • 20 years ago

    Nope, no joy. That looks like it is your webshots page, not the public community page.

  • 20 years ago

    OK!!! I think (hope) I've got it this time!!!!

    http://image60.webshots.com/160/1/63/81/525116381OHtQWZ_ph.jpg

    It shows the seawall but not the part that is damaged. Thanks for being so patient.

    Sandy

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:75409}}

  • 20 years ago

    Sandy -- you stated that the top cinder blocks had come off. Can you see if they are hollow or have they been filled with concrete? The right way to construct a wall like this would be to use horizontal AND vertical rebar reinforcement, then fill the blocks solid with concrete. It would also require a substantial footing or base to rest on. Dig around and look for some of these clues and it will help determine the best course for stabilizing and repairing it.

  • 20 years ago

    Only the lakeside part of the top blocks have crumbled off. I'm in Florida right now and we won't be getting back to the cabin till Spring. But my memory tells me that the blocks are filled with cement (I know because I used to walk on the seawall). I also know that there was a cement footing (I remember stepping on it and using it as a step when trying to woman-handle our inflatable out of the lake and up the hill). I don't know if rebar was used but I wouldn't be surprised if it WAS used. We found piles of scrap rebar in the boathouse and around the property.

    I REALLY feel drawn to working with cement and tufa as our new place came with a cement mixer!!! (have no idea if it works of course). Also got lots of rebar scraps and even a pipe bender that has been screwed to one of our trees. I'm all set and can hardly wait!

    Maybe I should wait till Spring and I can take some pictures with my new Christmas present (digital camera).

    Sandy

  • 20 years ago

    Still don't see the picture.

    Tango is right. The way to construct a wall like this is reinforced concrete. If the footing is damaged then you have a major piece of work to do. Just repairing damage to the top of the wall should be easy for an amateur, but you might still want to tie it in with some rebar, or it will likely just crack off in a few years.

    On top of the sound concrete wall, you can put a fake stone, stucco, hypertufa, etc. covering but expect to be replacing it every few years. I don't have a good feel for the sort of weathering you get. Probably more grinding ice than pounding waves?

  • 20 years ago

    Shrubs n Bulbs hit the nail on the head. If the footer is in bad shape, anything you do on top is of limited use as it will just continue to crumble. On the other hand, if it's fairly sound, there is one option that might easily stay in place for fifty plus years. Start by cleaning the existing wall as best you can. A rental pressure-washer will do the trick. Then bend rebar to fit vertically and tightly over the existing wall and anchor it to the old footer by pouring a build-up right on top of or adjacent to it. Then tie on horizontal rebar all along the length. Space the bars about every six inches and you can get by with a smaller gauge bar like a number three (3/8ths inch). Then tie 4x4 steel wire mesh over & onto the rebar. From there, mix a good batch of 1-2-3 (cement,sand, gravel) and pack it firmly over the reinforcement and onto wall. You will also need to apply a good bonding agent both to the mix & onto the old wall. Adding some log-strand fibers to the mix will help as well. Build up a mass that is at least one to 1 1/2 inches thick over the steel and let it fully cure. As for finish, you can either texture and color it (similar to any plaster finish you like)...sculpt/carve a fake rock pattern...or "scratch" it so that you can come back after curing and top it with real or faux stone. And, since you said you have a mixer, the addition of an air-entrainement admix would give you about as much resistance to freeze-thaw damage as possible...but it does indeed take a mixer to get that benefit. Hand mixixng simply won't produce the bubbles consistently enough to realize that benefit. All-in-all, if the footer is solid, you should be able to build a new fascia right over the old and end up with a good looking "new" wall that will last for quite a while. One last note...if you are considering a real or faux-stone...check with local pros for recs on type and placement techniques. The weather (way up there) will be the driver for determining the best selection and application techniques.

    If anyone else has any thoughts or experience, PLEASE comment. I'm just a Southern boy trying to help, but freely acknowledge my limited (make that, "lack of") experience with the conditions this structure will have to face up to.

    Take your time, do a little homework and you can pull this off with excellent results. Best of luck from the Sunny South Coast.

  • 20 years ago

    It's pointless to comment without more details. I saw the problem as mainly an appearance problem along the top portion of the wall.
    Freeze/thaw in my part of the country has an annoying habit of breaking and popping off the top row of a cinderblock wall that hasn't been properly capped. It's usually not serious and easily fixed with a bit of repair and a good strong waterproof cap.

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks for all the good information. Sorry...I guess I haven't quite figured out how to post pictures yet. Just found a picture that shows the damaged part; I'll Email anyone interested.

    Sandy

  • 20 years ago

    I keep trying to figure out how to post pictures.....

    Does this work? (this should be the whole album)
    http://community.webshots.com/album/525109883twzCBc

    Last picture is one I just found and shows the damage to seawall.

    Sandy

    Here is a link that might be useful: Our cabin on Curlew Lake

  • 20 years ago

    Pix showed up and it looks like there may be no rebar running through the wall since more than the cap has blown off. A repair plan still depends on the condition of the footer and whether or not there is is rebar and a solid fill of concrete inside the cinder blocks. Can you tell?

  • 20 years ago

    Sorry...I can't really remember. I remember walking on the top of the good seawall part but don't remember really LOOKING at the damaged part to see if it had rebar or if blocks were filled solid. I DO remember the footer appearing to be in good shape. Maybe it would be smart for me to wait till Spring when we'll be back in Washington (semi-permanently). I've just been trying to get a jump start on plans and what material I'll need...because buying materials will probably be a problem. The only building supply place is rumored to be going out of business which will mean going 50 miles just to get to an Ace Hdwe! (closer to 100 to Home Depot). I'll have a chance then to really look at it, try to get feedback from our contractor, take better, closer pictures and then yell for help if I need it. Thanks for helping!

    At least I finally learned how to post pictures!!!

    Sandy

  • 20 years ago

    I looked through your pics and was struck by the lovely spot you have chosen. I don't have any expertise to offer regarding the seawall, so I'll leave that to the others.

    I used to live near Tacoma and miss the greenery and moisture as I now live in the high deserts of New Mexico.

    Loved the deer pic! LOL

    Jo

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks! We really love it and can't wait to return. I've got so many plans that I'll never manage to do them all (LOTS of flower pots, the seawall repairs, cement statues, stacked retaining wall for veggie gardens, wild flower gardens, an orchard, walkways, garden benches, making the deer paths around the penninsula into a garden pathway, etc. etc.) Everybody loves the deer pictures the best!

    Sandy

  • 20 years ago

    Okay, okay Sandy... I'll voluneer to come help you... you know, even if it means whacking the odd mosquito in summer...

    Lovely place you have there, I'm officially jealous!

    ~GC

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