clare:

Pears are pretty hard to train. They just want to grow straight up. Pruning will not spread the tree much. You will just get more upright shoots. You will need to tie the limbs down to spread the tree. Tie them to a rock or stake or anything else on the ground. After a yr the branch will stay where you trained it. Then train more if needed. After 3-4 yrs of this, you will have a nice tree.

The Fruitnut

So, I will try this, "weighing down of select branches". But, how many branches should I leave on this young tree?
And, should I leave a main leader on the tree or should I try for an open centre tree? type.

Clare:

Open center, hands down. Your newly-planted trees are already the same height as my pear trees that have been in the ground for 15 years -- and it's not because of the rootstock, it's pruning and training.

I would not have purchased and planted trees of this size, since I prefer to begin training well before they achieve that height. Horizontal branches are fine; vigorous central growth is not. Tying the branches down is one technique, branch spreaders is another. To control growth, try pruning in late summer.

European pears are often slow to begin bloom and fruiting, but I have found that training to a vase shape and pruning in summer reduces the time required. Nurseries often like to sell very tall trees at premium prices since many people believe taller is better. The opposite is the case.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Well, lots to learn!!
Hmm since the trees are the height they are how to go about getting the desired open cup form?
Is it to late to prune back the central leader and then selectively prune out some of the scaffold? branches and then to weigh the others down?
And if we are to late to encourage this shape what do you recommend?
As pears are, I am learning, vigorous growers, (I should have known because we had one at the restaurant I owned and it was not only a fast grower but!! a fine fruiter. NO bugs!!.) how should I treat these under pruned/ overgrown treelets? without doing damage.

Well, lots to learn!!
Hmm since the trees are the height they are how to go about getting the desired open cup form?
Is it to late to prune back the central leader and then selectively prune out some of the scaffold? branches and then to weigh the others down?
And if we are to late to encourage this shape what do you recommend?
As pears are, I am learning, vigorous growers, (I should have known because we had one at the restaurant I owned and it was not only a fast grower but!! a fine fruiter. NO bugs!!.) how should I treat these under pruned/ overgrown treelets? without doing damage.