I don't know where you are but here there was an awful lot of rain during scab season. Sometimes you need to tighten the schedule a bit even with systemic fungicides on a year like this.

I've never suffered much scab damage because I waited until petal fall to spray and I never apply myclobutanyl (Immunox to you) more than once before that, which goes down during my oil spray at half inch green to tight cluster. That leaves spur leaves unprotected for quite a while

However, I usually add Captan to the petal fall and following application. Without the Captan there's going to be more exposure to new tissue that forms between sprays (growing leaves and fruit) and on a cool wet year this could especially cause problems. Immunox stays right where it is once it sets but Captan will splash to new tissue during rain.

I protect a lot of the most scab susceptible varieties including scores of old Macintosh trees.

I forgot to add that I live in North Central PA. I just thought that it was odd that the one that I usually had issues with scab (Mac) does not have a single apple that I could find with scab on it. I did start spraying it earlier then the others and kept up with water sprouts more on it to keep it open. But even the apples that are fully exposed on the other varieties got scab on them.

We did have an awful lot of rain during scab season here also. I will have some captain next year to throw into the mix. The apples look great up to about 3-4 weeks ago and then they started getting scabby. I have been discarding the ones I find with scab but it's getting hard to keep up.

How long do you usually continue to spray for or how many applications do you do for scab?

What you have can't be scab. I think you are talking about summer fungus- flyspeck has the textural appearance of scab but sooty blotch tends to be more dominating- completely covering apples. Scab is an early season fungus and if you don't have it by late srping you won't. I never spray for scab after the first week of June except a possible rescue mission a couple weeks later in a couple instances in the last 20+ years.

If you want pristine apples, Immunox is not the ticket and you'll need probably another 4 sprays with another or other compounds. Cheapest thing besides Captan for that is Mancozeb, which is more affective than Captan for control.

Summer fungus is cosmetic only, except in terms of long term storage- scab lesions on fruit causes cracking and deformities and pre-mature fruit drop.

Could you post a photo?

I will get a pic today. If it is not scab it definitely is not cosmetic. There are apples falling off before ripe and there is that concentrically marks that are rotten under into the fruit. A few of the apples that I cut in half to so if the seeds are brown are rotten to the core, not very many though. Most are just below the skin but continue to worsen if left hanging.

Summer rots are much more than cosmetic so I guess we will need a picture. Summer rots can be difficult.

Finnally got some pics. After doing some searching on the web, I think it may be Bitter rot. Does this look about right?
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/jethro7575/Apple%20Pests/HPIM2627.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/jethro7575/Apple%20Pests/HPIM2631.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/jethro7575/Apple%20Pests/HPIM2630.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/jethro7575/Apple%20Pests/HPIM2625.jpg

I'll try this again. Got a little to close on a couple pics.

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It looks like bitter rot to me. To confirm cut a cross section of the apple and see if the rotted flesh beneath the surface appears in a V-shaped pattern that narrows toward the core. To prevent this you needed to continue with summer fungicide sprays. Topsin and Captan sprays late in summer would have helped to prevent bitter rot. The disease develops early but may not show up until late, often in storage.

Yes, you are right when I cut it out I can ring it at an angle with a nife and it leaves a cone shape hole. So how close to harvest can you spray these? Should I spray these starting from the time I stop spraying for scab and PC and continue spraying all summer?

Spray as close to harvest as the label on the fungicide allows you. Yes, spray the summer sprays starting in July and spray through August, maybe even into September depending on the weather. I try to spray every 21 days or so. One inch of rain, cut the time in half, two inches of rain, respray. I usually do my last PC spray by the middle of July and then summer sprays from then on, as many as needed based on the weather.

Commercial instructions will probably tell you to spray every 10-14 days, we don't need every fruit perfect for home use. I store my best keeping apples for winter use and the ones least perfect or not good keepers I use first. Keep in mind many sources on the internet are advising commerical production of fruit. I managed to have home grown apples year round. My winesap, granny smiths, stayman, and Arkansas Black from last year lasted until my McIntosh came in this year. I just started eating the Macs a few days ago. My goldrush hasn't started producing yet but I look forward to adding that one to my winter collection.

As a side note, I was at our local farmer's market over the weekend just looking around when I saw the appleman. He had Granny Smiths that he "just picked", here in zone 7 (Virginia)I usually pick mine very late October or early November. I try to pick them just before a killing frost, which seems to get later every year. From experience I expect it would take a rather heavy frost to damage the Granny Smith apple. I have missed ones on the tree and found them in late November and they were good.

I have a different approach to controlling the rots here in Z6 southeastern NY. I use Flint and don't spray until July and stop in mid Aug and that has worked for me. Flint also controls fly speck and sooty blotch which Captan doesn't, so, if you want pretty apples, better put something in with the Captan for those.

It is just certain varieties that get it here. Empire, Mutsu and especially Honeycrisp come to mind. This year has been particularly bad for it.

This year on my Honeycrisp I used Pristine instead of Flint and for some reason it didn't work well. I had no problem on a tree that had good crop set but on the one with light set I lost almost every apple. The apples were just too damn big and watery.

I've only been working to control rots for 3 or 4 seasons at only at a couple of sites so I can't say I'm really expert on its control. I always believe in trying much fewer sprays than what's used in commercial production and then adjust as needed.

Thank you both for you help and suggestions. Next year I guess I will have to experiment and see what I can get away with. This is the first year that I noticed any or at least this much damage and suspect it was do to the wet lat summer. I am not looking to get pretty apple just one that that don�t rot off of the tree before ripe.

The good thing is I am getting a lot of things figured out from playing around with my dad�s trees which are just less then 10 years old and will have a good understanding with my trees that I just planted this spring. I started an orchard last spring and then moved this spring and had to start all over LOL. But this forum and the people on it have been a great help and I appreciate it.