Ray:

That is what is called collar rot. When it occurs farther down it is called crown rot, but to me that is a distinction without much difference.

I have lost only two trees in my orchard over 30 years to this problem, but it does happen. I cannot explain to you why some trees get it and others in similar circumstances do not.

There is no way to save an affected tree.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Don

Can I plant another tree in the same spot. I've got
limited space, and would hate to lose that spot.
Thanks

Ray

Ray:

You are looking for clear yes or no answers where there are none. Olpea thinks your melons should not have been planted so close to the tree. I'm not so sure. I have a long-time melon patch right next to a row of apple trees, and none of them have ever suffered crown or collar rot. Surely good drainage is helpful to apple trees, (or any other fruit tree) but many survive and prosper in fairly wet conditions with no root or crown problems.

The two trees I have lost to root/crown problems (one on M-7, one on M-9), were planted well away from any other crops in areas of excellent drainage. My two experiences do not, of course, make a rule.

Whether or not to replant in the same spot is a judgment call, and it's one for you to make. Out of caution, you might choose not to plant melons around an apple tree again, and you might be more conscious of possible drainage issues. You probably will not see this disease again, but there are no guarantees one way or the other.

All of us who have raised fruit trees for any length of time have experienced the loss of at least a tree or two, maybe more, often for different reasons. With experience, you try to avoid conditions that might promote disease, but that doesn't always work. The collar/crown rot that is killing your Fuji tree was probably visible some time ago (or may have been there when the tree arrived from the nursery) but you did not notice it. Now you will, but that doesn't mean you can stop it.

When you lose a tree, replant and try not to worry.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Don

Would it make a difference if I planted a standard
tree that wasn't grafted, in the same spot?

Ray

Ray,

You don't want to plant a non-grafted tree. It will likely yield poor quality fruit, you won't like. Don gave you some solid council, but we disagree on the cause of your collar rot.

I certainly wouldn't doubt Don's experience with it, but it's generally recognized phytophthora is caused by wet soils. If this applies in your case, the biggest thing you can do is remove the black plastic and stop the drip irrigation. That alone would probably fix your problem. But if you want an extra level of protection, you could plant on a phytophthora resistant rootstock (like a standard rootstock-but a grafted tree) and plant the tree in a mound. It's impossible to get poor drainage in a mound and the zoospores of phytophthora can't "swim" in a mound. Mounds have certainly done a world of good for me. But all that is probably overkill. If you just lessen the soil moisture a bit, you'll probably be fine. But as Don says, as a fruit grower, expect some losses along the way.

Thanks Olpea, I can get another grafted tree on standard
root stock, but how big of a mound are you talking about.
Thanks
Ray

Ray,

I probably wouldn't do a mound unless I planned on keeping the black plastic and the drip irrigation. In that case, a mound would probably do you some good. Mounds don't have to be that tall. In my opinion, it's better to have a lower mound with a large diameter, vs. a tall mound with a small diameter. Although I've built them much taller with machinery, a mound 1' high with a wide sloping footprint would make a nice mound. Mounds generally require some maintenance (i.e. mulching) or they slowly erode.