You're probably watering too often (or else letting the pot sit in water). Leave more time between waterings and add a handful of grit to the mix for faster drainage.

I don't think it's overwatering, I've only watered it a few times since I bought it three months ago. It was just starting to droop before I gave it a shower.

There are lots of things it COULD be, Mentha, - natural senescence for one (if only the oldest leaves are involved), which is very easy to remedy.

First I'll mention that it's a sudden chill that usually causes leaves to yellow then fall, and the process is usually fairly rapid. The new leaves emerging from latent buds in leaf axils are usually better able to tolerate the draft(s) that took the previous.

If you think we're safe in eliminating an insect or light issue (too much) and can also eliminate leaf senescence, the odds are overwhelming that the problem is either nutritional or lies in the relationship between the plant and the soil it's in.

If you're interested, I'll offer a couple of thoughts, but first please describe the pattern of yellowing. I.e., is the entire leaf involved in uniform yellowing? what part of the stem - bottom leaves only? interveinal chlorosis or other obvious pattern? do the leaves look 'silverish'?

Al

Hi Al,
Hope you had a great Thanksgiving, we had a nice time at the neighbors, there was even a real life hobo there, he even gave us a concert on his guitar.

It is still in the soil it came from Walmart in. I haven't checked it since I really don't want to get out the potting soil and clippers this time of year. The yellowing varies, it seems to start around the edge or bottom half of the older leaves working their way in, the inner veins last, then stopping at the stem, damaged leaves are also affected. The yellowing seems to be pretty uniform, the funny thing is the leaves are turned toward the window, which implies they are still trying to function and phosynthesize. There are no brown tips on the leaves, only around broken leaves. The affected side seems to be the side closest to the window, which happens to be the window we open for the cats to treck in and out. The leaves don't seem to really fall, but they are easily snapped off with the thumb. The silver pothos inside the bird cage is fine, only this on on top of the bird cage is affected. (no there aren't any birds in it) Other than the yellowing, the leaves are upright and perky, not droopy or soft, but crisp. It was fine when it was at the east facing window, but the hoyas have taken that place, so this is the only place it can be for the winter, unless I throw out our remaining two chairs in the living room.

Some pictures, (clickable)

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It does look like some larger insect had been on the plants, but I'm pretty sure it was flies.
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Closer look
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My lovely assistant, Purrum wanted to help with the photo shoot :)
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Not sure what this aroid is, but any help would be appreciated, it does seem to have a few spider mites.

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Some of the leaves on mine will yellow, maybe about ten or so when there is a change in light, such as it being moved to lower light then it was in before, or the lower light of fall.Your watering sounds ok. Good drainage?
Mine is one the root-bound side and I'll let it pretty much dry out before watering, but not wilty over the rim dry.
Too much sun can also cause yellowing, as well as some brown spots. Not sure about too much fertilizer.

I might be wrong, but your other plant looks similar to a variegated Syngonium podophyllum.

Billy Rae

Hi Billy Rae,
I haven't fed it since I got it, so it could be needing a boost, but I don't really want to do that unless absolutely needed, since the light isn't sufficient for new growth.
I forgot to mention that all the leaves shown have yellowed within the last few days. I snapped off all the yellow & dried up leaves when I gave it a shower.

The tag on the Syngonium says "French White" I don't know if that's a description or cultivar. The closest I could come was "French Marble" aka "White Butterfly"

I know that Syngonium podophyllum cultivar as 'Pigeon Schitt.' (That's the name it's been sold to us under; I swear I am not making it up.) I've always kind of doubted that that was the actual cultivar name, though.

lol, I think for my sanity's sake, I'll stay with "White Butterfly" (Two teenage boys with enough gutter in their mouth ;) )

Wow! lots of activity on this thread since I passed through earlier this AM.

Had a very nice Thanksgiving, thank you. No hobos here, but among the 14 we hosted were my wife's ex-husband, his mom, and his brother and nephew. In the eyes of some, I suppose that might qualify as at least as unusual as a hobo, but who's to say. ;o)

"I don't think it's overwatering, I've only watered it a few times since I bought it three months ago. It was just starting to droop before I gave it a shower."

Let's take a sec to think about what this information implies, and see if we can draw a conclusion from which we can extract a probable cause. If you've only had to water a few times over a period of 3 months, we can draw the conclusion that the soil is retaining water for extended periods - else the plant would have collapsed in wilt. Extended saturation of a planting's soil = low O2 levels in the root zone = impaired root function/metabolism = inability to move adequate water (and the nutrients dissolved in water) to distal parts of the plant = a drought response = yellow leaves/stems and shedding of parts.

As soon as I looked at the pictures, my immediate impression was that the appearance of the leaves & o/a planting are symptomatic of a watering issue - too much. There is nothing I can see in the look of the leaves to indicate a nutritional deficiency of any consequence for this time of year, or toxicity issue (over-fertilization). If it was an insect issue, it's likely the entire plant would be more evenly involved. A more even pattern would also likely be observed if at issue was sudden chill or a light problem.

Perhaps you could push a wick through a drain hole and up into the soil. Allowing it to dangle a couple of inches below the container bottom will really help to remove excess water from the container after you irrigate. If the soil is REALLY saturated - depot & set the rootball on a newspaper overnight to help dry it out. Watering only when the soil or wick feels dry to the touch at the drain holes is a pretty safe way to stay your watering hand.

If you don't necessarily want that '3-5 ft cascades' look, you can prune the vine tips at the desired length. The plant will back-bud then, and remain much fuller than if simply allowed to grow freely ..... just a thought.

Good luck. ;o)

Al

Sigh, I'll check the soil as soon as I feel up to it, I just got back in from potting up a couple sans and orchids. I'm too hot and winded to go back out and play in the dirt. Not to mention hungry from all the cinnamon I had to use on roots. Anyone for Spanish rice???