Its possible the mower spindle is jammed up, disconnect the spark plug and battery then try turning the blade over by hand.

Also, check the idler pulley that tensions the blade
belt when you move the blade engagement lever. The bearing
in the idler could be seizing. If either of the these
scenarios exists, though....the engine would try and SMOKE
the blade belt when it's engaged. Any evidence that blade
belt is being smoked...can you smell it?

T-Man

On the right side of the machine in front of the engine, but still under the seat, there is a rectangle cover held on by two bolts. This is where the starter switch is located on some models. Anyway, there is an interlock module under there. It is connected to a switch on the blade handle, and also on the gear selector. It's purpose is to not let the engine start without everything in neutral, but it can go bad and let the engine start but it will die when you shift it in gear.

Again>my wireless connection dropping, had to switch to laptop.
Thanks for all of your input!!
in order:
mower spindle: Blade turns okay
idler pulley: when I had it up I spun it okay, engaged it was tight
interlock module: this may be it. after cleaning out the grass and debri (I'm so ashamed) I pushed the button and the side of the gear lever and it stuck now it tries to start in gear but will not start even it neutral. Question is how do I get it out to replace. I didn't want to break plastic on side of lever. looks like it should slide forward, then darkness fell time to stop.

I suspect what you are talking about is actually the neutral switch. The "Interlock" is likely mounted inboard from this with 2- 3 wires running from it.

I would disconnect the Kill wire where it junctions on the engine and see if the engine starts and runs OK then.

Walt Conner

Okay, I know which one you mean. It also has the positive cable from the battery connected there. Since I'm not looking at it I'm not sure which the "kill" wire would be. Seems like I saw about 4 wires connected there.

Okay, you have a life. :) I played enie menie mini moe when I got home. From the interlock I have three posts. One red with positive from battery, one black wrapped going to motor and one blue on a separate post seems to go back to console. Blue disconnected would not turn at all, red w/fuse would not turn at all. followed wrapped black back to engine, went to a canister on back of engine. there was a yellow wire coming out I disconnected. It would then start and run, smoked so much it filled the basement and I can smell it in my bedroom. I was able to engage the blade and cut a little but it ran like crap, very low rpm and kept trying to stall because the rpm was not as high as the grass. What's next master? It's already dark so I could not tell if that junction box was disconnect-able.

WHAT HAPPENS to my posts? I posted a reply to this last evening and it isn't here. Not the first time this has happened lately. If the moderator is having a problem with my posts, please let me know.

"One red with positive from battery, one black wrapped going to motor and one blue on a separate post seems to go back to console."

I think you are talking about the starter solenoid here. Interlocks are different configurations but the older ones were a shinny canister between the size of a nickel and a quarter and about 3/4" long with, I think, 3 wires from it. One to the neutral switch, one to the engine, one to the mower deck disengage switch.

"I was able to engage the blade and cut a little but it ran like crap, very low rpm and kept trying to stall because the rpm was not as high as the grass"

You need to post your engine make, model numbers, type and code it has them so we will know what engine we are talking about.

Walt Conner

Model is 28108BE. Engine only shows model 255707, type 012801, code 90103111. Is that a briggs?
Well now that you described the interlock I know what it is, also the kill wire was already disconnected,I reconnected it this winter when I noticed it. So last night I disconnected it again. It started and I ran it with the blade engaged for about 15 minutes, It runs for about 1-2 minutes, then almost stalls for a sec and picks back up. It was smoking real bad though. I will buy a new spark plug on my way home tonight. I did take the spark plug out before I started this blog and scraped the carbon off it. I also cleaned and oiled the air filter.

The code indicates manufacture 10 of 1990. That is a 10 HP briggs. What color is the smoke? Blue smoke and I'd suspect the rings are worn out. Black smoke is too much fuel. You said you cleaned the air filter, so I'd guess either the float is fuel-logged or the high-speed needle valve is out of adjustment (if it has one).

"I also cleaned and oiled the air filter."

What color smoke?

Hopefully you just oiled the pre-filter.
The main filter could be clogged with microscopic sized particles and still appear to be OK. They don't last forever.
If you have a dust free area, try mowing for a SHORT time with the air filter off and see if that has any effect on the "smoking".

Bluish white smoke. I only saw one filter to clean. You don't think a bad spark plug would cause any of that?

Of course, answer the questions above about smoke color.

The fact that it runs without the kill wire connected but not with it connected indicates that most likely the Interlock is bad. Typical. Of course it could be other things but this is the best odds. I haven't bought one for a long time, were about $15 then and of course are a Safety Feature, think liability.

The smoking could be it is just plain worn out, cylinder scored, ring/rings broken, breather bad, or all of above (grin) Do you have a way to check the compression? When you spin the flywheel backwards by hand, does the flywheel rebound forwards quickly?

Before you do anything drastic, remove the carb float bowl, clean it, check that the main jet going up inside the well that protruding down into the carb bowl, is tight. Is the float about parallel with the float bowl boss, seat, on the carb when the float is closed? Clean the float needle. Re-assemble, start the engine and turn the main jet adjustment screw, extending down out of the bottom of the float bowl, turn it counter clockwise slowly, does this help the rough running? Turn until the engine starts to stall or surges, turn clockwise until the engine falters, split the difference. Do the same with the Idle Mixture screw on the side of the engine at low speed.

Next I would check the crankcase breather valve. I won't go into that here, email me if you want instructions.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

I will work on the carb this weekend. What Bill said did work, without the air filter on the smoking stopped and I cut a circle without stalling. Put the filter back on and cut a circle and it stalled again.
It still ran rough so I probably do need to clean the carb and adjust the jets. Can't hurt anyway.
Back to the smoke and air filter, I guess I need to replace it, but is not smoking without it a symptom of something else??

It should run better after cleaning the carb and new air filter. Think of it as trying to breathe with your hand over your mouth n nose, the dirty/old filter (if never changed) is acting that way on the tractor, no air means it cant run right. Unless the new filter suggests oiling it , i dont think i would, its supposed to help pick out more debris, but if oiled too much will go thru your engine and make it smoke.
Try that first , then go from there.
Kidd

Thanks for your help guys. She's running good now. I didn't actually clean the carb but I did remove the bottom screw and let it blow out, and adjusted it. I threw away the oiled filter and bought a new one, installed it dry. The guy at the shop also recommended no oil.
I will disassemble the carb this winter.
NOW; next project: Level the deck, it's about a inch higher on one side. I haven't really looked hard for adjustment screws/? I does not have chaines like the old ones did.

Thanks for your help guys. She's running good now. I didn't actually clean the carb but I did remove the bottom screw and let it blow out, and adjusted it. I threw away the oiled filter and bought a new one, installed it dry. The guy at the shop also recommended no oil.
I will disassemble the carb this winter.
NOW; next project: Level the deck, it's about a inch higher on one side. I haven't really looked hard for adjustment screws/? I does not have chaines like the old ones did.

I am assuming that by "the guy at the shop also recommended no oil."
you are talking about a foam air filter or foam pre-filter? If so, I say the guy is nuts. What does he imagine will trap the dust, dirt?

Walt Conner

5/25/07

That's right the guy's nuts! Ever small engine repair manual I've ever read says to lightly oil the filter; then wring out and install. All my mowers have had this done and no problem. Perhaps the man was a student learning the trade... Tbone123

Can you convert the handle bars on a snapper rear engine riding mower to a steering wheel, or is there a kit or place to buy the parts.

Bought at Walmart in sapulpa,Oklahoma on 5-31-2020. We were told by snapper to send it to Ohio and they would determine if it truly warranty repair work. Beware of getting screwed if you purchase one and it quits working. Love spending $1800 for a lemon. DO NOT BUY A SNAPPER RIDING

Snapper is and has always been a high quality reliable brand. Angry customers like the one above do not always tell the whole story.