"Need to find a wiring digaram for connecting dual circut wires to ignition swith and push button starter? Any suggestions?"

IF the two wires you are talking about are joined in a duplex plug, the red one, it should have a "fat" place in it just ahead of the duplex plug, is the charging wire and would be the one you need to connect in place of the single wire that was on the 8 hp B&S. The black wire of this pair is AC for head lights and just disregard. These two wires should both be coming from beneath the flywheel.

There should be another single wire either coming down by the carb OR coming thru the back side of the cooling shroud, depending on the engine. This is the "Kill" wire going to the ignition switch.

Walt Conner

Walt, you are right on. It does have to two wires with a duplex plug. One is red and one black. The single wire does go to a terminal on the throttle bracket. The push button staart has a white wire along with the black and red from the batter. Would the red from the dural circut go to the white on the push button start? The key ignition has two positions; start and off. One other qt. Do you think the 11.5 hp was from the factory or after market? My son has a 12 hp. B&S with a DC circuit; both fly wheels are the same with permanent mags. underneath. Would the DC (half circuit) be an option if the other failed? Thanks so very much for the help.

update on Snapper rear engine rider: We connected the red wire from the duplex plug to the positive side of the starter switch (battery side), put everything back together...in few muinutes after hooking up the gas tank and with a turn of the key and push on the start button, WHAMO..it worked...Thanks Walt..

"The push button staart has a white wire along with the black and red from the batter. Would the red from the dural circut go to the white on the push button start?"

I don't remember how the wiring goes, the red wire needs to untimately wind up feeding the positive battery terminal. I think there is a site on line where you can get a wiring diagram.

"Do you think the 11.5 hp was from the factory or after market? "

Well I thought you said it was a replacement. The 11.5, 28 series B&S engines was introduced near the end of the production of the 28 series "L" head engine and doubt it was original but I have no way of checking the mower year from the serial number.

"My son has a 12 hp. B&S with a DC circuit; both fly wheels are the same with permanent mags. underneath."

Don't be so sure that they are actually the same. The number of magnets may vary depending on the amperage output.

"Would the DC (half circuit) be an option if the other failed? "

The red wire is putting out half wave DC. The other wire is putting out AC. Putting a diode in the AC circuit would change it into a half wave DC also, it might or might not be functional after the other failed depending on the type of failure.

Well I see you posted a message after I composed this but am going to send it anyway.

Walt Conner

Walt I am the one that bought the snapper. the model number is 30083s. Most websites I have been to to lookup parts says that this particular mower may have come with an 8 hp engine. This snapper I got for 100 bucks and I posted another article on this forum on June 16, 2009. It was in relation to the single circuit wire and the dual circuit wiring. the dual circuit after testing with a tester turned out to be faulty. The single circuit came from a 12hp Murray riding lawn mower. The fly wheel came from the murray as well. The original flywheel on the snapper had plastic teeth and there were spots in it that were bad. After measuring and talking with a mechanic from a lwan mower repair shop, it was ok to use the 12 hp flywheel and single circuit. The engine runs fine and charges the battery now. The single circuit wire runs to the push button and that connects to the positive wire that runs to the battery. Everything looks good so far. The snapper is easy to start and sometimes when cold don't even need the choke. The starter is old and has been in out in the weather some. The whole lawn mower was sitting outside a lawn mower repair shop for about a month or so. The lady who was selling it and ran the shop, didn't know anything about it. She was asking 100 and I offered 80 and she turned it down. She said she had to have 100 for it. In hindsight I probably could have gotten it from someone else for a little less than 100 bucks. Everything works on it and even the old gas that was in it worked with a little fuel treatment. The battery is 5 years old or so and it still holds a charge when put on the charger. The deck on it is not adjustable in the sense of adjusting it like on a 42inch lawn mower. It does have handlebars to steer it with. If you go to www.snapper.com and look up manuals and then type in 30083s it will show a list of manuals you can look at. Pick either one of the parts manuals and it shows pictures of what I have. It does show some examples of either a 10 or 11 hp engine, but not 11.5. Must be a newer engine than what came on the snapper originally. Still when taking into account what someone was trying to do to it to get it running before I got it, not a bad deal overall. The wiring to the push button start was actually hooked up backwards and that meant that the starter would always be running with the engine running. That might explain some of the teeth on the old flywheel being gone. The only thing I do now is turn the key to the on position and mash the button and it starts right up. There are tubes in the front tires and one front wheel actually has wheel bearsing where the other one doesn't. Howver, it doesn't affect the steering any. The drive tires has many cracks and a few plugs and it does leek air if sitting for a few days. May have to replace later on. Only put 8 dollars into it. I spent a majority of the 8 dollars on the oil and the rest on a few nuts and bolts for the blade. My dad wants me to flip it which means to sell it quickly for 250 or so and get something a little newer. The only problem is, most people around where I live that are selling lawn mowers are wanting a pretty penny for junk. I almost spent 150 on a massey ferguson that would have needed a lot of work. It had a tecumseh engine on it and it was the pull start type. The tecumseh engine was missing parts and the deck needed to be oiled and greased to be able to lower and raise it. The blades were drive with an axle typ drive that went the width of the deck and had a gear in a cover that spun the blades. The transmission belt looked good but the back part of the body was rotted with rust and needed brackets to hold the seat and body onto the frame. The tires were good and up, but there was more that had to be done. It did have the typical 3 or 4 speed tractor like shift to it. I was going to ask the man if he would take less and thought differently and left. He had many lawn mowers including some john deere rear enging riders that needed work and he was asking alot of money for them. I may try to sell mine in a few weeks after I have used it for a little while and make sure it won't breakdown on someone. Thanks for the information you have given us Walt.

Walt, we changed the flywheel from the 12hp to the 11.5..the ring gear on the 115 was plastic and several teeth were stripped..we also adopted the coil from the 12hp to the 11.5..we also replaced the dual circuit with the DC circuit from the 12hp; it has only one wire (red)..so far everything works..the starter gear from the 11.5 seems to fit the teeth ln the 12 hp flywheel ring gear..if we can find a way to remove the plastic ring gear from the 11.5 we'll replace it with a new one and use the original flywheel on the 11.5..

Walt,

I need that wiring diagram. Which website were you refering to? The P.O. of my mower CUT the white wire. The end near the spark plug is still attached, but I need to know where to hook back to the battery. I just ordered a new diode and wire pigtail assembly.

Regards,

Xenia_Dan

I do not now remember what web site was referred to. I am asking another forum member to examine your situation.

Walt Conner

xenia_dan, please explain a little of what problems you might be having in regard to the "CUT white wire" on your mower.

The image below shows how the OEM engine on a Series 6 RER is configured. Note that THIS example mower has electric start using the key switch (mounted on steering column).
If the RER you have features a push button start switch (beneath the right side of seat) the configuration would be slightly different.

I have a Briggs manual covering engine and alternator replacements and rewiring that might need to be done when replacing an OEM engine with a different Briggs engine. The manual is in PDF format. I'm not certain if it would help you but you can e-mail me for a copy if you like.

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I am interested in placing lights on a snapper rear engine riding mower. Where would be an ideal mounting spot for the lights & switch. What type of switch should be used? The switch should be waterproof of course, but I need a easy mounting type, any sugestions? How should I wire the switch and lights? What type of lights should be used, one with an adjustable mount?