Software
Houzz Logo Print
maidinmontana

Some ??'s for the experts

17 years ago

Hi all, and I really enjoy reading and learning from all of the advice here. I have a few ?'s and decided to group them all together.

1) I was thinking about trying steer manure as a fertilizer over my entire lawn. Using a spreader? I have never done this before but was wondering if it would work using a spreader. Is it a good idea or will it burn the grass? Comments please.

2) I have a bad infestation of morning glory/bindweed. I try to keep it mowed to prevent it from flowering but it seems as tho those pesky things duck from the mower and pop up aftrwards. If I fertilize will the grasss eventualy choke out the weeds? I read weed and feed products aren't the best and it makes sence to me, so I have used Scotts anytime fertilizer only once so far but was thinking about doing it again. The last time I used it was over a month ago.

3) I also have thistles. I have been treating them seperatly using Ortho Weed-B-Gone spray. It seems to be getting them but new ones are popping up near the ones I kill. I realize they are rhizones which is why this is happening. Usually after I mow, I spend another hour or so shooting thistles. Is it just going to be an on going problem I will have to continue to do as I have been?

I rent this property so I don't want to spend a lot of money on a professional service. I think I'm the only one who has ever given a care about the lawn here. So far I have laid new sod in a few areas, added a brick paver patio, tore down old rusty storage sheds, planted numerous perennials and put up a fence, I think I have contributed enough, but I would like to get the lawn in check eventually.

Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Comments (4)

  • 17 years ago

    1. If you're talking about fresh manure, that will smell pretty bad. If you're talking about composted manure, it would take a lot to be enough to supply enough as a fertilizer. Probably so much that you would be in danger of smothering your grass. The only spreaders I know for this are very expensive.

    2. Bindweed spreads aggressively through the root system as well as through the seeds. And seeds remain viable for years. So there's no hope that you'll be able to control it by trying to mow before it flowers. If you have a mild infestation, you can keep it in check (and possibly eliminate it) by pulling every bit of it that you see as soon as you see it. Don't bother trying to pull up all of the root because it's possible that you only have a couple of individual plants even though they're spread throughout the whole yard. Pulling as soon as you see it controls it because you're essentially starving it by keeping it from making food. If you have a larger infestation, you'll need to use some sort of weed killer and it will probably take repeated applications. A broadleaf weed killer (like weed be gone) will work, but don't use it if it's over 80 or 85 degrees (I don't remember for sure, check the label). Roundup (glyphosate) will work, also, but it will also kill the grass. A few years ago, somebody posted a method where he would let a section of bindweed grow longer thna usual, then take a mason jar and put glyphosate in diluted to 50% strength). He'd then stuff the bindweed in and set the jar carefully in a slight depression so it wouldn't spill and kill the grass. Since it was diluted, the plant would take it in much longer and store it in the roots, so it took a little longer, but killed more of the plant. He said he could see how extensive one plant was because he'd kill one little piece and see it dying all over his lawn. Some people will put on latex gloves, then put on cotton gloves, dip their fingers in glyphosate and go around "painting" bindweed leaves, being very careful to avoid getting any on the grass.

    In case you can't tell, it's very tough to control and people will go to extreme measures to get rid of it.

    I've never dealt with thistles, so I can't help there.

    Do you know what kind of grass you have? Where are you? That can help us guess if you don't know the kind of grass.

    The reason I ask is that proper mowing can help control weeds, also. Most grasses do best when mowed tall, but a few (bermuda and zoysia in the south and creeping bent in the north) do best when kept short.

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks BP, I was afraid you were going to say that (pull the weeds). A dear older lady once told me that the only way to get to the root of the problem was. . . to get to the root of the problem.

    There is quite a bit of it, but not a huge infestation, it looks like there is more due to the vining nature. And I do pull it as I am walking thru the yard now and again.

    I don't want to kill the grass so I will use something safe.

    I live in Billings, MT. which is south central. I'm pretty sure I have KBG, as this is what I use to seed the doggie urine spots in the spring and it blends real well.

    I do remember reading the post you mentioned about the guy trying to get rid of bindweed, I haven't tried it but he sure sounded determined.

    So. . . with that being said, will more fertilizer which will hopefully increase the healthy grass also help to choke out the weeds? I do mow weekly, always use a bag to catch the grass clippings, and mow on the highest setting on my mower.

    Thanks again.

  • 17 years ago

    You might look for the product called Brush-B-Gone. If your garden center does not carry it, you might have to go to a feed store.

    What exactly is the seed listed on your bag of seed.

  • 17 years ago

    "the only way to get to the root of the problem was. . . to get to the root of the problem. "

    The problem with that when dealing with bindweed is that the root system is probably scattered all over your lawn. You may only have a few plants in the lawn, but the roots spread out and periodically sprout new growth above ground, so there's almost no way to pull up the entire root. I've heard horror stories from people who tried to get rid of bindweed and dug it up, which only served to break the roots into little pieces, each of which sprouted a new plant.

Sponsored
Schlabach Woodworks
Average rating: 5 out of 5 stars22 Reviews
Franklin County's Reclaimed Wood Professionals