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Tecumseh engine problem...Any advice?

17 years ago

I am a seat-of-the-pants tinkerer and have correctly diagnosed more than a few problems and their (relatively simple) solutions in my day. My problem is I am looking at a Tecumseh with issues for the first time. I am very familiar with how small B & S and Hondas operate, but Tecumseh's are new to me.

6.75 hp (195 cc) y-4TPXS are the numbers off the engine. Craftsman 917.377781 (model) and 031604 008502 (serial #??) are what is on the deck. I believe it is a 2006 model.

It stopped running and then (subsequently) would only cough and sputter occasionally. This is the point the neighbor asked me to look at it. It was very dirty overall. Plug and filter are not pristine but are also not the problem. Once I get it running, a new plug, filter and oil change are in the plan.

I discovered I could get it running by (manually) shooting some gas into the throat of the carb, but it would die quickly. I shot some carb and choke cleaner in and let it set a bit...I also sprayed the linkages for the throttle. I now have it running (But...) I have to manually work the throttle (which is obviously automatic) to keep it going. I can almost set it at various RPM's (as if it had an old-fashioned throttle cable attached) and it will happily putt along at several different RPM's (from 'idle' to 3000+).

I am wondering if it could be missing a spring from the carberator. There is only one on it as I am looking at it today. Some smalls I am familiar with have two that balance out one another. The one spring I see goes from an 'arm' mounted on the side of the engine to a fixed 'post' on the carberator. There is also a 'linkage rod' that goes from that same arm to the choke adjustment at the top of the carb.

Mostly, if it has all its pieces...I'd describe its movement as 'stiff'. I'd expect it to move more fluidly and self-adjust. I have only messed around on the outside of the carb. I do plan to drop the bowl and apply a little more cleaner internally.

Advice? Recommendations?? Marvel Mystery oil? some type of lube for the throttle and linkages???

Anyways, thanks in advance for whatever advice you all can offer...I promise I'll check back in if/as I solve the problem (as I know well the only pay anyone gets here is the thrill of of offering some expertise to slove a problem.

Dave

Comments (8)

  • 17 years ago

    Remove the brass bolt from the bottom of the fuel bowl. this is the metering orifice. Clean the holes, particularly a tiny one at the end of the threads that's on an angle. Use a piece of soft wire out of a wire tie and carb cleaner. It should run after that. If the owner will use Sta-Bil all the time it might keep it clean.
    Tip: turn the mower up on it's side with the carb high and no gas will come out when you remove the bolt.

  • 17 years ago

    The newer Tecumsehs often have one spring. Here's a picture of the jet.

    {{gwi:126850}}

    {{gwi:126852}}

    {{gwi:126851}}

  • 17 years ago

    I am a little more familiar with the "snow king" designated (winter)Tecumseh engines...they were common on snowthrowers until this past year. Some of those did have a spring-loaded bleeder to allow you to drain the bowl. Is that what the one image above is showing? Or is that piece (marked with the red arrow) from inside (and above) the carberator bowl?

    My carb bowl only has the one screw in the middle. I've not dropped it yet to clean but I plan to first thing tomorrow morning. The photos and advice were very helpful. I will pay particular attention when I do that. I have used bread bag wire ties (stripped of the paper) to do something similar on Honda GC and GX engines that were surging and figured I might be able to use that trick again. But the innards are definately a little different.

    I'll check in here again in the AM (Coffee, news, sports, surfing and e-mail rounds)in case there are further posts. With a little luck, I'll be back with some good news for my neighbor.

    Thanks again for going to the trouble to help!

    Dave

  • 17 years ago

    Remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb and compare it with the pictures. It will be one of them.

  • 17 years ago

    Problem(s) solved! Much thanks to Saxman1 and Baymee! The photos (especially) were very helpful. I can honestly say I would've missed the smaller hole without the blown up photos. Even after it was cleaned it was still damned hard to see with 47 year-old eyes. There was a bit of a film that cleaned right out of the bowl and I'll assume it was in the finer parts of the carb as well. After getting it running a little better, I did turn in the one screw a bit to adjust the 'hi' speed rpm's (I did this by 'ear'). I do believe there is a gauge for such but I've always had good ears for the right rpm. I'd say it was running about 2400-2500. I now have it just a shade below what sounds right (3000ish).

    After a short discussion with its now happy owner, he mentions to me that it had not been running well since he got it back from the service he uses this March. I suspect his repair shop was somewhat at fault. I can see no advantage to it running at that rpm. A nice guy, my neighbor but perhaps a little too trusting of their work. I think I would've burned the phone line up fairly quickly if I had gotten equipment back not running correctly. Of course I'd not have left without hearing it running.

    Final question for discussion: Could having it set up to run at a lesser rpm have contributed to the problem?

    The plug was replaced in March but seemed awful dirty for 4 1/2 months (I dropped in a new one). The oil was also low so I cautioned him to keep an eye on it in case it is burning oil (I also changed it for him).

    Thanks again Guys. Great forum We have here, isn't it?

  • 17 years ago

    I don't think the lower rpm did any harm, but the equipment wasn't working like it should.

  • 17 years ago

    The only harms in running slow are reduced ground speed if self-propelled and reduced cutting/mulching/bagging performance. And, hey, it's our job to make you look good!

  • 17 years ago

    Sta-bil will keep any engine running like new....I do 1.5 0Z per 2 Gal