Get the OEM Briggs parts. What you need is the valve 231885s , bowl seal 281165s and 692255 washer. You can replace the seat if you are up for it- has to be pulled out and new pressed in if you choose. It would be a good idea to install an inline fuel valve and use it. Of course, the oil needs changing and the engine deflooded.

tomplum, thanks for the input. The mower's been sitting so long the bowl is badly rusted, had to pry the needle valve out, and the main jet is so gummed up with varnish & dry deposits I nearly couldn't remove it without damaging things. Still recommend only the parts u mentioned?

With the pricing on the kits and having a maybe when you're done- go all the way and replace the carb. This is especially true if there is corrosion up into the carb in the aluminum. The mount gaskets and bowl (which you would buy extra) are cheap. BTW, I only use OEP carb parts if I have to. Definate quality issues in my world.

Thx. Will let ya know how it goes.

Hey tomplum, soaked entire carb for 2 days in solvent(no corr in carb body). Got all ports & main jet blown clear, replaced needle valve/seat and bowl seal kit(all B&S parts) & put shut-off valve in-line close to carb & of course fresh oil. Fired right up & runs like a top with minor tweaks of idle speed & mixture screws! thx for the tips. BTW my 18hp twin had a c/c full of fuel too! A carb cleaning & in-line shut-off valve & it too is running like a champ. A tank of fuel also goes much further now!!!