Arborvitae? Not sure if they carry CAR... That would be my first choice. They can grow into a really nice screen and grow fast. Other then that, some sort of pine...but they can grow huge.

Find out from your state's forest service/ state forester what trees they recommend and the growing characteristics for those they recommend.

Here is a link that might be useful: Minnesota DNR

See the following link for information on windbreak design to meet your needs. Your local conservation district or NRCS (Soil Conservation Office) can give you more specific advice.

Here is a link that might be useful: Windbreaks

White cedar is not a host for CAR, that's red cedar and it's close relatives...red cedar is actualy a juniper. (the junipers, cypress, and true cedars get jumbled by name quite a bit.)

Should have said EASTERN red cedar, also known as aromatic cedar (think cedar chest/closet). Western red I believe is actually a cypress..

In September, I visited a fairly large orchard by Marshall, Mn. That area of our state seems to get more wind than your or my (north of Brainerd) area does. Their orchard was surrounded on several sides by poplar trees. It seems that they weren't so concerned with winter protection. They wanted to prevent summer and fall damage to the trees and the apple crops.

Poplar are very fast growing trees and you get a wind break very quickly. They are also fairly short lived. You could also plant spruce on one side or the other of the poplar to eventially take their place.

The orchard was growing Honey Crisp, Zestar, Haralson, and maybe a couple of others. All varieties that could handle Minnesota winters. These are the same varieties that I'm grow here.

My fruit trees are still quite young. The fruit plot is surrounded by brush about 6 to 8 ft tall with scattered poplar trees mixed in (natural - I didn't plant). I'm in the process of mixing in some spruce trees right now. I got about a dozen of them planted last week before the ground froze. No more digging until spring.

poplar are fast growing,but around here they are brittle and poorly anchored...We see a lot of big poplar blow down....would be drag to have one come down into you fruit trees.

The poplars here in MN will also be very subject to blow down and cracking as they reach maturity at about 20 years. Not as much from poor anchorage but rather snapping off 10 to 20ft up the tree. Until maturity they are quite resilient though. Thats why I would recommend planting something like spruce on either side of them so the poplars can be removed before maturity. A spruce, or maybe a red pine (Norway) that is more slow growing, can then provide a permanent wind break.

In central MN, I'd stay away from cedars, white pine or arborvitae unless they are behind a tall deer fence. The deer will gobble them up like a thanksgiving turkey. Been there, done that, lost the battle.

Northern-]

You are right! I totally forgot (im in the city). There is a very nice house on the outskirts of the city and they have a huge row of arborvitae (huge) and the first 5ft or so are BARE...the deer just mow them down.

Scratch that idea if you have whitetail...although... venison is quite popular, tasty meat...

Yes, it is worth it to install a windbreak. Windbreaks are usually 3-4 layers of varying heights.

I like blue spruce for the tall row in windbreaks because it is such a beautiful tree and it is evergreen.

I also like to put in something that flowers for the short row, to encourage bees to hang around. Wild roses, lilac, hardy hibiscus, Eugenia, blueberry......

Poplars around here are terrible bug magnets. Plus they aren't very attractive looking. Nice fall foliage, though.

Stay away from trees that spread with suckers, or you'll be fighting to keep them out of the orchard. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to remove a couple of gorgeous quaking aspens that I had thought were far enough away. (Poplars are invasive; another reason to not use them)

If i had the room, i'd go with Blue Spruce... Beautiful tree in winter with snow on the ground.

I also would skip poplars... I see them around, where people put them in for a wind break. They don't look like they would stop any wind, tall/lanky/not very "full.

I wouldn't put in Lilac...i have them in my backyard. They smell great in very early spring and bring in the bees...but by May they are done and i think they look ratty from there on...plus by July mine get horrible mildew. I've been thinning them for years. They spread really bad and am constantly mowing down sprouts.

Stick with an evergreen... You can always cut them for Christmas trees if you feel like they aren't working out.

There can be advantages in planting a windbreak. My family planted the orchard on the north side of the windbreak for late spring freeze protection.
{{gwi:125815}}

If you have the room I am in complete agreement with Osmoke that a gradiated screen from tall to small is the best way to go. The shorter trees and bushes can be chosen for their flowers and provide a natural transition from the tall trees in the background to the sod of your orchard. Run with natives that require no special care.

Here dogwoods and other cornus do well as does eastern redbud and various viburnums. You would have another set of plants for your climate but what you want is a wide range of blooming times. Just try not to plant anything that will be in bloom and in range when you're spraying the fruit trees with insecticide.

Not only is this very pleasing to the eye but it creates great habitat for your pollinators and hopefully, mostly beneficial birds.

thx for advice.

I planted poplars 9 years ago to shade my barn and they are now huge. ditto for some various types of "christmas trees" that I managed to save from the pocket gophers.

anyway poplars plus pines would give me considerable wind break within 4-5 years. all i need is some fast growing hedge type plant to provide cover ASAP while the trees are still small and the poplars and pines are just getting established.

as always thx for the help from everyone.

I've previously mentioned that the windbreak brush that I have around my fruit plot is about 6 to 8 ft tall. It's an all native mix and I don't have a clue what it is. I just started to put in some spruce trees and will be adding many more when the ground thaws again. (We've got ice fisherman out on the lakes already!)

I've been looking at all of the comments on this forum about currants and elderberry. Been thinking about gradually replacing the unknown brush with these 2 fruit bearers.

What I think I know:

Elderberries - several varieties - mostly vigorous - grow to 7 or 8 ft tall and are usually a very full plant for a good windbreak. Problem - Deer might love them. Not good for me (wind break is on the outside of the deer fence).

Currants - several varieties - They would be a lower tier brush (only 3 ft high). Also a very full plant. May be too short. Potential problem - I've got Big White Pines about 600 ft away - potential for White Pine Blister Rust)

Do fruiting plants outside the plot create new problems with birds or help solve them? I like that they attact bees and other pollinators.

What are your thoughts on these or other low fruiters for the outside of a deer fence wind break? (remember zone 3/4). The OP (oldryder) is looking at the same opportunities/problems that I am.

I don't think currants will give you much windbreak. They are however super easy to propagate. Several varieties are resistant/immune to white pine blister rust. We have high deer pressure also, but they never bother our black currants.
Elderberry would provide more shelter (bigger), I don't think deer go for them much but am not sure. I do believe I was told by Cummins nursery long ago that they can be the "typhiod mary" of the fruit world in terms of harboring various virus.

The currants aren't for windreak, although extending a lower tier probably helps somewhat.

I would tend to heed Cummin's advice but maybe you should double check.

I grow rust susceptible currants near my white pines and have for 20 years without consequence for whatever that's worth. The issue of currants infecting pines is contraversal at any rate.

There are rust immune varieties you can use- just contact Lucille at Whitman Farms and she can give you advice and a great wholesale price no one else can match.

I would absolutely double check about the virus and elderberry.
I know Jim Cummins used that phrase with me, but I can not swear it was in referencing elderberry...it was a conversation from 12 years ago when we first began our edible plantings.

As for attracting birds:

There aren't many birds that are strictly fruit eaters. Birds are valuable for insect control.

You are going to have birds whether or not you have a windbreak, so you are going to have to defend your fruit regardless.

My theory is that I will provide habitat and wild food for the birds, and in exchange, they will do a lot of bug control for me.

Then it is my job, and my part of the bargain, to protect my fruit from them.

I will not put out bird feeders, because I don't want to turn the birds into lazy welfare recipients. However, I will plant things that provide "U pick" dinner for the birds.

I would like opinions here. Orchard site is on a hill, windy and below zero winters. Late freezes are a problem. A belt of blue spruce is there some about 6' tall. If I plant on the south side, I provide winter protection but due to southern exposure will break dormancy earlier and be more susceptible to late spring freezes. Plant in open, subject to wind and cold but delay breaking dormancy. Which is better option?