Provide all the engine numbers of both and we can tell you when the engine was produced. Assuming they both have original engines you can then figure the mower is under 6 months newer then the engine.

Unfortunatly with neither running you cannot determine the condition of the drive system, a potential costly situation.

I don't know what part of the country you live in which would have a lot to do with the market. I quit trading in Snapper RER several years ago because I could no longer make any money on them. I did buy 3 last fall (from a dealer) with the idea of fixing one up for a son. Two were about 5 years old, one a little older. Bought all three for $900, all were electric start Hi-Vacs. Son moved and I had a heck of a time getting rid of them. Two were 33" Hi-Vacs, one with a 14 hp Kohler, I still have an "Extra Heavy" (duty) 28" Hi-Vac with a 12 hp electric start B&S and bagging attachment, runs great, pricing it at $350, no lookers. An old Comet is more of collectors item than anything, probably 30+ years old.

A couple of hints, lift on each side of mower near the rear wheel (one at a time) watch of excessive up/down play at where the rear axle exits side of mower.

Stand mower up on its' rear standards. Remove battery first unless the battery is one of the sealed ones. Grasp both rear wheels, pull then push briskly on both rear wheels at the same time. How does the drive feel? Does the wheels feel as though they are connected? If you feel grinding, catching or if one wheel doesn't feel connected, trouble. This should cause the rubber drive disc to spin, does it? Now turn each wheel one at a time and see how it feels. Look for excessive grease leak. No leakeage at all may mean the owner never greased/serviced the mower. Now is a good time to recheck for up/down play in rear axles.

I have just learned that rear axle ass'ys are no longer available aftermarket for Snapper RERs. These were about $40 aftermarket and will be about twice that from Snapper plus having someone put the ass'y in unless you can do it yourself, $$$.

Turn the blade, how does the blade shaft/spindle feel/look. How about the front spinles that hold the front wheels, are they loose, and the steering rod connections?

Good luck,

Walt Conner
South/Central Illinois

As a follow up, just read in Terre Haute, IN, Sunday paper Classifeds - For Sale 8 hp Snapper RER, runs and cuts good, $100.

Also, I sure wouldn't buy a new carb for an 8 hp Tec. engine, I would repower with a 12 or so B&S.

Walt Conner

jalinker, if you are anywhere near Walt there in Illinois I advice checking out those two he has. We don't always agree on methodology but I have every confidence in the quality of work he does.

He's got two working mowers and you have a big question mark. I would be very hesitant to purchase a Snapper rider and not be able to determine for certain the condition of the drive system. Not that they are inherintly troublesome but that old ones are likely to have wear and repair can be expensive.

Thanks for the vote of confidence nevada_walrus, I guess I wasn't clear, I have one left. The engine didn't need work, no "hand fitted rings" on this one.

Did a *couple hundred dollars worth of work on drive train before son moved two 3 states away and never used it. *(If you had to hire the work done)

Walt Conner

Hi..
I too have an oppurtunity to purchase a older model snapper RER....$500.....the serial number is 300848 I am told that it is a 8hp...that's about all I know about it... any ideas of the age of this mower? how about the deck size? can this be obtained from the serial number? any comments, questions, advice, wisdom etc. is appreciated.

Does the label show the Model Number? That helps locate the approximate model year. Once that's determined, the correct Operators and Parts Manuals would be helpful. I can send you those by e-mail once the Model is identified.
calrec@verizon.net