What are your specific questions and concerns? I have grown organically for about 15 years now. Are you asking about your planting medium, disease control, pest control, or just gathering information? I'll be happy to help with anything I can. When you say you dug holes, did you remove all the native soil and replace with the amendments you mention, or did you add your stuff to the existing soil?
Mrs H

thanks for reply-I removed old soil-would like your advice pest-disease plahting medium etc. any info will be welcome Bill Rogers

sounds a bit high in N for tomatoes to me, depending on what the "plant food" has in it ... maybe lots of leafage, not necessarily much fruit .... and why "plant food" if "organic"? also 16" is prolly deeper than necessary, and 10' apart is definitely more than necessary, unless you have oodles of room

Bill

Organic gardening is not simply making a small area into good healthy soil, it is about making the whole world into a healthy place and we all start with out small spot of earth. Start by contacting your local office of the Universtiy of Georgia USDA Cooperative Extension Service,
http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm
about a soil test for base nutrient and soil pH levels and then dig in with these simple soil tests to get to know your soil much better;
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

You might also want to spend a little time with this tretise about soil organic matter.

Here is a link that might be useful: Why Organic Matter

If you don't have a compost pile, start one right away. In a years time (cold composting) you'll have some nice rich compost to work into your bed, but even better, you can brew your own aerated compost tea. There is info on ACT in the FAQ file and if you search the forum you'll find plenty of threads about the finer points of ACT brewing. My tomatoes love ACT.

Thanks Squeeze I believed Neptune Harvest was organic.Trying hard,making mistakes. Is ten ft.ok for saving seed.Ordered info from GA ext.Should receive in a couple of days on organics. I will try worm compost tea do you have any advise-- I have plenty of room. Thanks, Bill

If you are saving seed you need at least 8 plants of the same variety planted 2' to 3' a part with at least 20' between varieties. Also be sure the maters you are saving seed from are OP/heirloom varities and not hybrids. hybrids will not give you seeds that will be like the parents because more than 1 variety is used to created hybrids.

Since it is your first year going organic you migyt want to skip the seed saving and concentrate on the porganics for a few years. the two are not at all related and both have a pretty steep learning curve

Ohiorganic good advice. I plan to save seed for myself, not for sale or trade, does it mater? I have plenty of compost and room. I put aged leaves with plant food,thinking it would speed up the brake down of leaves. I see there is more to organics than I thought,but am hot discourged. any advice welcomed Bill

Back to your soil: with all that material in there and providing compost tea you will create an ammonia environment for the plants. Also with all that biological activity the temp will raise at the root zone. You need to create a compost pile and use the "COMPOSTED" material as a soil amendment the following year. However, you will have to add fertilizers mthat will give you the needed nutrients not available in the GA soils in your plant soil. Make sure you know what the plant needs are for your target crop...tomatoes don't require too much N and therefore produce more fruit due to this slight N stress. However, they DO require available N at the right time.... Best to fill up your holes with Organic soil (from most stores) and put a block of peat in there as well! Put your toms in and stake them and purchase organic fertilizers as a side dress and toy with some nice products from Peaceful valley as a foliar feed. NOTE: if you are collecting seeds make sure you realize your open pollinated type heirlooms will cross pollinate..you might simply get some nice heirloom plants or seeds that are certified. Nature Turf in Atlanta has some fertilizers, soil amendments, fungicides etc...(they supply to the organic growers in GA) they might sell you. 770-967-2300 0r tellme@NATURETURF.COM

Make sure your soil has enough calcium to prevent tomato blossom end rot. Have you tested the soil? Even if you didn't, it won't hurt to put crushed egg shells in planting holes, or buy "Tomatoes Alive!" from "Gardens Alive!".

There are very few secrets in organic fertilizer. Look at the ingredients in all the fertilizers you can find and then look for the same materials at your local feed store. I've never bought a commercially branded organic fertilizer. I only buy corn meal, corn gluten meal, alfalfa pellets, and other ground up grains. The cost is about 1/6 the cost of the branded fertilizer when you buy at the feed store.

Thanks organicburro
I have been useing Epsom salt with good result (I think) Here are my soil test results (P)--(K)--(Ca)-(Mg)-(zinc)--All above line for no nutrients needed.I plant a 70by70ft area took five samples in 02 anouther in Nov. 06. I have the best garden around,but want to get as close to organic as posible. please advise
Thanks Bill

Thanks dehall
I live with in 6 miles of 3 feed stores, it will be easy to get feed and grain. I put my soil samples report in my response to organicburro, ck it out and advise me on your thoughts on gitting me closer to organics I have set up aerated tea system and have made one 5gal batch,how do I khow how good it is when its finished. I have a cold compost pile and hot pile-- putting in a new hot pile. I think that will be enough.(?)
I want to do it right (may take a while).
Thanks for your in put.
GOD BLESS---Bill

I'm lucky to have an Agway here in my little town in PA. They order alfalfa meal, cottonmeal for me. They have more trouble getting the kelp meal I love to feed my soil. Be careful of too much of these high N fertilizers or you'll have huge plants with few fruits. In my experience, you need about twice as much P and K than N (5-10-10 or 8-16-16). You can learn alot about every kind of organic fertilizer at Peaceful Valley's website.

Here is a link that might be useful: Peaceful Valley organics

don't follow dschalls advice...purchase organic fertilizers that are labeled correctly. Additionally, fertilizer has gone through a conversion process to fix the product as well to maintain the analysis. In addition, fertilizers are a blend of inputs to achieve the label analysis. Organic fertilzers have many ingredients that elicit particular responses in plants...like cyclotins in kelp...Also, by using feed mill products exclusively you will lack P neccessary for fruit production. Additionally, as a novice you can better get a handle on your results by keeping track of your inputs. The epson salt is an excellent idea as tthere are several studies by Europeans that the addition of magnesium sulfate allows for better amino acid production wheich effects taste. Also, check pH...in GA the soil is notmally 4.5 and bagged soil is 7. Compost will cause it to flucuate but toms like lower pH like 6 i think...for most varieties anyway...Stay away from feed stores as their expertise is feed...call up an organic distributor in Georgia or check www.georgiaorganics.org for some guidance and they have many respected people you can go to for information that is valuable...

dschall..incidently a 50# bag of alfalfa has about 1# of sulfur in it! If you even had a clue and solved the mystery you say you have you wouldn't talk a bunch of bull. You say you looked at the ingredients...