I'm just as bad, I water carefully most of the time but about once a month I gte too busy and the Orchids go a couple of extra days or so before I get to water them. Mine seem to be fine with this behavior and grow and bloom well for me. I just figure that mother nature isn't very consistant with rainfall so why should I?

As far as Mother Nature is concerned it all depends on what orchid you are talking about. For example Cattleyas in Central America may get rained on daily and several times during the day and how about the orchids that live in the Central American cloud forests?
The real key to this thread is not the irregularity of the watering but the state and type of potting mix being used and the type of pot the plants are in. These are the conditions that set up the need for watering. The less aeration that occurs in the soil mix and the less access that air has to the mix then the need for watering becomes less relevant than the need for adequate humidity and air circulation.
I do not water on any particular schedule but only as I perceive the plants needing it by the relative lightness of the pot or the color of the surface of the mix. However, I mist the plants daily lightly overall and more heavily for the mounted plants and will water with the spray wand the dryish looking pots as well as the three plants in osmunda in net pots (a Miltonia, Cishweinfia and a Paphiopedilum). For this reason I prefer the use of net pots though for the smaller species this can be hard as the mix may loosen up too easily but have found that osmunda is perfect for these smaller plants in net pots.
Since half of my greenhouse are tropicals I spray down these plants (mostly begonias and bromeliads) heavily to push up the humidity to 70% +.
Another factor is the temperature range the plants are being grown under. Lower temps allow for less watering stress. Again humidity is the important dynamic factor in countering the impact of the higher temps and this is more approximate to natural cycles.
And then there is the question of foot-candles. Plants under 3000-5000fc respire at a higher rate than plants under a 500-800fc exposure and this would impact the need for available moisture and is probably the most significant factor involved in stressing out most plants.

Here is a link that might be useful: Photosynthesis-click on the -> on left side to see process

True the amount of light makes all the difference, and like you said the type of media and what condition it is in makes a difference.

But even with the right media that is fresh there will not be uniform dryness throughout the pot. Also your method for watering is very different. I grow inside and soak each pot for about 10 min.

I think if I do this on such a regular basis the center of the root ball would stay too moist even if the rest of the media seems dry.

I suggesting that we include as part of the watering schedule a dry out period.

As you said orchids come from a variety of places, but we are putting them in our environment. Perfectly mimicking their natural environment will never happen. Rain in a cloud forest is very different than any type of watering we can give them.

The effect you are seeing may be from marginal over watering. Plants vary, of course, but "when in doubt, go drought" is a good rule of thumb. For Dendrobiums this is especially true.

While it is true that a true cloud forest is hard to reproduce, I have found that keeping the roots cool is more important than air temperature or even humidity. In summer I water the Pleuro extended family heavily with cold water and can bloom everything but some Draculas.

One tactic that takes some experimentation to set up but works well is to vary the potting media so that plants dry out at different rates. That way the Phals and other orchids that need more even watering will still be moist while the Dens and Catts can be in a more open mix and be fully dry.

I've actually done the same thing as me_171 and seeing the more vigorous growth and more frequent blooms that have been the result, over a couple of years, just reinforces what we tell every newbie: orchids thrive on benign neglect. Seriously, as salvialr pointed out, does Mother Nature know that oops, it's been a week since it rained, so let's go?

Julie

I think if I do this on such a regular basis the center of the root ball would stay too moist even if the rest of the media seems dry.

Maybe, but, I don't think that is a problem. Because of the optimal light, there will be ongoing renewal of the root tissue that is under bacterial attack and there will also be optimal readiness of the orchid's immune system to any disease pathogens that may get past the plants outer layers. In the worst case, those deep center roots may die completely as the plant concentrates its energies on the roots in zones of moisture more conducive to root health. We have all seen that roots increase proportionately in health and appearance as their location to the outside of the root mass decreases. One reason I discount the importance of clear pots. They always present a rosy picture of the root situation as the roots you can see will always be the fittest, healthiest ones on the plant.

I [am] suggesting that we include as part of the watering schedule a dry out period.

Well, if it happens due to unplanned events as mentioned in other posts then, so be it. But planned 'dry-out's' IMO are a solution in search of a problem. The orchid is not likely to thank you for your efforts.

H

Clear pots always seem to cause more problems than good for me because of algae.

I agree with the high light claim, I do have high light I actually started to cause leaf damage to a potinara with CFLs most of my leaves stay a rosy color, and this is all because of your advice Howard and I thank you. As a Side note I also have my masdies in about the same amount of light as everything else and I have something spiking from each type I have. So I agree about light being of primary importance. I tend to give everything "hight light', and I am always trying to add more.

Probably planned, accidental dry outs are not a good method. But I do feel it is important to at least not freak out about having to go another week before watering.

I just feel there must be some variation in a watering schedule. From observation my orchids benefit from the change.

My observations also show that the benefit usually is greater after a schedule has been followed for awhile. The delayed watering occurs only once and is never an extreme length of time.

Hmmm - interesting theory. Commercial growers stress plants by withholding water so they'll be in "survival" spike or bloom - out of season - for a particular show, even though their leaves look fine. However, they say this isn't good for the plant long-term. I don't know how long they go without watering.

Our conditions must be very different- I'm scared to try going 2 weeks without watering. Maybe it's because I water from the top, rather than soaking for 10 minutes every time. Exceptions are periodic leachings.

In the ideal world, my orchids get checked every other day, winter and summer, and watered as needed. Mounties get sprayed virtually every day. Then come the occasional days when it ain't gonna happen, and potted plants go 2-4 days without attention.

Outside in the heat, delaying watering 4-5 days can set back some plants in bark. Those in sphag do better. One time, summer before last, we left town on short notice, and my orchid buddy wasn't able to come over and water for about 8 days. A couple of plants died, and a few others are still recovering.

The only time watering inside is delayed is when we're gone, and the blinds are closed and lights and heat are turned off. Oh, and mounties go to the buddy's for the duration.

You're fortunate to have this much "wiggle" time.

Whitecat8

Probably have to take climate into consideration. I grow completely indoors and have 50-60% humidity via a humidifier and indoor temps which rarely get above 80 on the hottest days.

Soaking versus top watering probably makes a big difference also. I soak at the most once a week and that may be too often for some of them. Mountings get a spray everyday as do masdis.

I have had some plans from EOoM that they must have stressed or something because as soon as they finished blooming they went downhill faster than I could do anything about and now continue to sulk.

So I agree we shouldn't stress them to this point, but a little stress makes then excited maybe. Only a few times did bulbs actually shrivel up some, but then plum back up when I watered again.

I guess I just feel that if we are trying to be like the environment they come from we should be a little unpredictable just like their environment is, maybe it makes them a little tougher.

A dry-out can induce spikes but after spikes have been initiated, it has been my experience that the 'chids will need regular watering to prevent blasting.

Then again this is true for my growing conditions which of course will vary from everyone else's.

me, you are a gal(?) after my own heart. I have always run my plants dry, I've always been a poor waterer. When I say poor I mean in winter with 18% humidity indoors, my plants dry out quickly. I also grow most of my plants in open, dry media.

The upside to letting plants dry out is less root rot, less fungal/bacterial problems.

The downside is stress, which produces failure to flower.

I have never lost a plant to lack of water, but I have lost flowers. If water is minimum at a time when new growths are maturing and should be setting spikes or buds, you can loose your flowers.

I completely agree with Howard regarding roots. I don't worry about what is going on deep in the pot. I've repotted plants with tons of healthy roots growing off what appears to have been rotted roots. If the plant is growing well, the roots are always being made and I don't worry about the old ones. When dividing plants, you will get new roots off old bulbs which had no roots at all.

I believe most people over-water and over-fuss. Unless growth is rapid and continuous, you can run into problems with regular watering. I agree that plants seem to fare better with dry-out periods and less watering.

Very good observations......

Jane

I am a 23 year old male first off with the first name Dana lol. (seriously) And once I have spikes I tend to not forget about them. I really thing my success is due to my periodical unintentional dry outs.

I did not realize this until this year when I got so many spikes and the only thing different is that I was less obsessive about the watering schedule.

I should note also most of the pants have been under my conditions and have not been repotted in a bit. So the increase of spikes may also be due to acclimation. But at least they don't have me. ;)

I'm probably the most newbie of those responding to this post. But at some time reading this forum, I read about putting a wooden skewer into the pot for the best idea about when the plant needs water. Most of the time, when you pull out the skewer, it is still damp. Sometimes it's completely dry. No matter which, if you know the needs of that particular orchid, you have a pretty good idea of whether it needs watering. I only have 6 orchids right now, but I find quite a bit of variation depending on the potting medium. Do others of you use the wooden skewer method?

I did start out using the wooden skewer methodand it is good to start off with them.

One caution they eventually start to rot because they are not as high grade of material as the potting medium. So then you have a sharp poker that may pierce a root and infect it.

So use them until you feel confident and then try to wean off of them.

Also I notice when using these they never got totally dry and it made a huge difference where you placed it in the pot.

Me, if it's been close to a year since you've repotted - or longer, the bark is retaining more moisture than when it was new, so you can go longer between waterings. Could that be part of the phenomenon?

About 3 weeks ago, a grower unmounted a plant for me and potted it in new bark, and watering it daily isn't too much yet. The same day, I got a smaller plant in a much smaller plastic pot w/ older bark in it, and it's needed watering twice in 3 weeks.

vtandrea, skewers were a great solution for me until people here said that pests and diseases can be transmitted from one plant to another that way, unless you wash your hands between handling each skewer.

Jane, I'm a reformed underwaterer. Those crinkly, accordian leaves started bugging me. :)

WC8

I do have a zygo and a brilla that have crinkly leaves so those got repotted to prevent this.

And I love repotting orchids and I always try to go to a smaller pot so I don't think I have any that have not been repotted within the last year.

I just think with my way of watering and my conditions they love to have some spontaneity.

Maybe orchids are like dogs and cats, they mimic their owner.

Like I have said I do not purposefully dry them out this is all from an observation that got me thinking maybe a natural gut feeling watering system is better than a regimented schedule. Which I am sure many of you do anyway without knowing it.

Funny WC. I'm still unreformed! I like crinkles..

Dana, I apologize as I couldn't tell from your Page or your Post. So I guess you are my type of 'guy.' I do the same and find the same results. I was speaking about the danger of underwatering during the time a bulb is maturing, before the spike or buds. If the plant is stressed from lack of water during this period you might loose the flowers. The growth will mature and look healthy, but you won't get spiking. Of course any stress due to this or other factors can cause the same problem. Winter indoors becomes a problem for me due to dryness and I force myself to stay on top of checking the plants. Whatever you are doing, just keep doing it. Its working.

I do not care for the skewer method and can tell when to water by the weight of the pot or the look of the media. After a while, you just know.

Good luck,
Jane

Ah I see, that is a good point about the pre maturing period. Alas maybe I must still feel guilty about my neglect, but still on the other hand it has been working so no change it gonna happen. Besides it can't be changed or fixed since this is all a result from unplanned periods of drought.

P.S. no offense is taken, I appreciate the apology but it isn't necessarily necessary lol.

You all have probably read this but it was and is very interesting to me and gives me much to think about.

Here is a link that might be useful: Water and Orchids