Depends on the soil ;-)

Where I live the soil is naturally too high in phosphorus and potassium and has ample micro nutrients so all I ever add is a nitrogen source (the blood meal does that, but be careful as it is the organic equivalent of urea and acts fast and lasts not long. Overdone it can burn/kill plants.

In all seriousness it is simply impossible to recomend anything for soil growing without knowing whats already in the soil.

Where I live I don't need soil tests as the tests have been combined to show each county's accumulative results, but many areas don't have this. Bottom line, get a soil test. Just once. It's worth it. Spend the extra money to get the soil tested for pH, composition, major nutrients and minor nutrients. Test results are generally good for 5 years or so before another test is in order.

Start by contacting your local office of the University of Tennessee USDA Cooperative Extension Service about a good, reliable soil test for base nutrient load and soil pH and then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what yor soil really is;

1. Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Look closely at your soil and amend as necessary with organic matter, and maybe other necessary amendments (blood meal is high in nitrogen and unless tyour soil has a lot of organic matter may cause more problems that it solves) but only what is necessary. Overloading soil with not needed "fertilizers" contributes to the pollution of our world.
About 5 years down the road have UT test your soil again and compare that test with the one you have done this year.

Here is a link that might be useful: UT CES