Traps work. But I don't know if you consider them organic or not.

Whatever you end up doing, understand that you will need to continue doing it over and over and over and....

The reason is that once a "vacancy" is available, a different mole will take up residence.

Terrier.

Do you have a friend with a terrier you can borrow for a few days? If they have a strong prey drive, it doesn't take them long to clean out a yard.

The other option is to just keep them out of your beds. A subterranean 1/2" chicken wire or hardware cloth fence, say 2' deep, should keep the tunnelers out of your garden. If you happen to accidentally isolate one IN the garden during the construction phase, you can deal with that one with a trap.

The most effective method I have used is castor oil in the following ways. Order a pint of it from your local drugstore. Not inexpensive, however, a pint will go a long way.

1. Pour 1/4 cup castor oil in hose end sprayer. Fill with water and add several drops of a wetting agent (dish detergent with no antibacterial or degreasing agents in it will work). Set sprayer dial on 3 tablespoons per gallon and spray lawn and under plants in garden with this. Repeat three weeks later and from then on you should be able to spray just the perimeter of the yard with this mixture once a month to keep the moles out.

2. Purchase an inexpensive large size watering can. Fill with water. Add 3 tablespoons of castor oil and stir often with a long, throwaway stick while using it. As you plant, water in each young plant with this combination. Repeat water three weeks later. No harm to plants. As a matter of fact I have noted over the years increased plant health and growth using this technique. In time the watering can will turn black, sticky and ugly on the inside which is why I suggest having a separate watering can for this project.

There really isn't any "organic" mole or vole control on the market that is effective. Various repellants or homemade anti-mole recipes just don't work.....even castor oil. Various extension service bulletins and pest control/mole eradicators will confirm this:

"The bottom line is simple. Chemicals and home remedies (including castor oil, grub controls and poisons) don't work. They're not only ineffective, but allow the moles time to establish and become major problems. All knowledgeable sources consider trapping the only effective method of mole control!

Does castor oil and soap work on moles?" I seem to get this a lot especially since some questionable test results from Michigan State University were released and the concoction was allowed to be sold premixed from various manufacturers. It is now sold under names such as Mole-Med, Mole-Go, Mole Repel and others ad nauseam. I first heard of this old home remedy as a mixture to be prepared in the home workshop by emulsifying medicinal castor oil with a detergent or soap. You were to whip in a blender 3 ounces of castor oil and 3 tablespoons of liquid detergent until frothy. Then add 8 tablespoons of water until frothy again. The mixture was to be applied with a 15 Gal. hose end sprayer at a mixture rate of 15 tablespoons mixed with water to fill the sprayer jar and applied to the entire lawn. This old concoction never did work and never will work and if it did work as intended, as a repellent, it just puts a bad situation off , leaving the moles to dig and reproduce elsewhere. This can mean more damage and more moles for you to deal with later. The first commercial product, that I am aware of, with this "odorous organic plant oil to repel vermin and pests" was sold under the name Mole Patrol and was manufactured by a Tulsa, Oklahoma company. I understand that the product was pulled from the market or production because the company could not substantiate efficacy nor had the company done required environmental impact studies at the request of the Oklahoma EPA. I am still unaware of any E-impact studies being done on castor oil and soap or any reliable testing of its efficacy."

Trapping or otherwise barring the critters from entering the garden is really the only effective control outside of a predator species on site. If you do the research, you will learn some of the gardening practices that encourage these animals to visit your garden and take up residence - like too frequent watering - that you could modify or alter.

Gardengal, I never post any organic method on this Forum that I have not tested and retested again and again. Presently I am advising three property owners with serious mole problems to try the two methods I posted above and all three are pleased with the results. Suggest you try them before discouraging the use of them.

Also, I will add a third technique which I have developed over the years that I did not include because I was too lazy to type it all out. For this method it is necessary to purchase a package of wooden tongue depressors available at craft stores and a can of Tanglefoot which can be found online or some Ace hardware stores carry it. More familiar to those living in Gypsy Moth areas.

Now, put on rubber gloves as this gooey organic substance is not easily removed from hands. Break a tongue depressor in half, coat it heavily with Tanglefoot, locate an active mole tunnel, cut into it and insert tongue depressor vertically and recover with soil. Repeat along tunnels about every ten feet. As a mole moves along the tunnel it bumps into this sticky product which clings to its face and inhibits its ability to eat. If one is alert and watching for new mole activity daily and uses this method as needed right away an upper hand can be gained on the mole situation.

Thanks again for the tips.
This is what I've tried so far:
putting galic cloves in mole runs- i'm growing alotta garlic, and they will go around it
cutting down ground covers such as clover, alfalfa, no mulch, keep grass mowed and weeded
covering up vole holes, only they make new ones
setting out mouse traps for voles, only they didn't take the bait
sprinkling a castor oil/clay granule product on mole tunnels- they did take off- only to go elsewhere and leave a new hole and tunnel for voles to use
It's definitely become a "war" and I'm losing. I don't know anyone who owns a terrier.
My neighbor said she gave up about 5 yrs ago with planting anything. I'm beginning to see why! However, it' really important to me to have a veggie garden. I'm just ready to throw in the towel! Poisons have to be out of the question.
I eat what I grow and have two small children. Don't want poison anywhere I can avoid it. My neighbors use it enough.
Thanks for the tips, I'll just keep trying to grow things.
Might buy a mole trap, and see if I can catch one.
Don't know. Thanks again, tho.

The BH used to be an Extension Agent.

She would get calls several times a week for organic X control. After years of this, she has a pretty good handle on what works and what doesn't, and actually lets me garden and tend my half of the landscape with organic controls as she knows what works and can see the yard works.

So she would get calls about termite control, mole control, wasp control, cat control, yadayada.

99.47362% of the organic control for termites, mole, wasp, are given up by the homeowner after 1-2 weeks as they aren't that serious and committed to the 2 hours a day to dig up tunnels and lay Popsicle sticks with Tanglefoot on them throughout their lawn, chase moles with olive oil with rosemary and chive.

Novice. Hardware cloth under the veggies. Killing traps. .22. Organic control for moles and voles is for the retired with no hobbies or one hobby.

Sorry. Choices sometimes must be made.

Dan

Best traps for moles are the ones made by Trapline products. They work really well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Trapline Products

Thanks Dan. Like you read, I've tried it all and put alot of time into it.
Question: I'm willing to try the traps for the moles.
They are expensive I think. What's the best way to use them to actually catch a mole?
Also, for Dan, any suggestions for the voles other than poison?
Thanks!

Did you watch the video on the link that norcal posted? [TRAPLINE PRODUCTS] Those traps look much easier to set than those awful Macabee traps that have been around for so long. They are 2 for $14 ... which is less than I had expected. They used a small dab of peanut butter to lure the gophers into the traps. I didn't watch the mole video [different trap, but same price]They might have a similar trick to lure the moles into the traps. One other post mentioned that you must keep up whichever methods you chose through several birth cycles. I agree. Especially since your neighbor's yard seems to be infested, too. Raised beds with wire bottom seems the most attractive, and once the work is done, may not require the 'eternal vigilence' of other methods. Well, good luck! AND OF COURSE YOU ARE NOT GOING TO STOP GARDENING!

People have been trying to keep moles out of the garden since at least the 16th century when a garden writer of that time described a "sure fire" method of control. "Place a straight sided bucket in a hole in the ground to its rim and trap a female mole and put her into the bucket. Her cries for help will attract males that will also fall into the bucket in an attempt to rescue the female"
Moles are after food when they make those tunnels you see in your yard and that food is earthworms, although they will eat grubs also (or about any other insect they find). Traps may kill a mole but another will move into that vacancy as soon as possible after you have eliminated that one, so trapping will be continuous. I know people that have trapped 100 moles every year for the last 40, or so, years and still do. The mole population has not diminished one bit. Poisons may help some, but they are poisons and could be eaten by other animals and since the dose of poison is aimed at moles could cause a larger animal excruciating distress over a period of time until it too died.
Most places that have tried to replicate the studies done at Michigan State University have not. What Joe Vargas turf grass students learned is that to be effective you must apply 1 pint of Castor Oil over 5,000 square feet and then water it in thoroughly. None of the commercial products I have looked at have that much Castor Oil in the mix and all have on the label that this is meant to cover 10,000 square feet and as those turf grass students found too little will not be effective, and more is simply a waste of money. Every time Castor Oil has failed to control moles it is because it has not been applied properly.
An unfortunate fact for every organic gardener is that because you will build up the amount of organic matter in your soil, and earthworms love organic matter, you will have a mole, most often only one simply because of the amount of territory each mole needs to supply its needs, anbout 1/4 acre.

Borderbarb, I started with the Macabee traps and didn't like them either. Then I graduated to the Victor Black Box gopher traps.

Now I use the Gopher Guy gopher traps. Much less digging. You don't have to dig down and find the main tunnel. Open and clean the hole with the handy digging tool (essential). Then stick the trap in the hole. The gopher senses the open hole and brings dirt to close it and is trapped and killed. The longer reach of the trap allows for dirt and gopher.

They are a bit pricey but worth it if you have gophers. It takes a little practice to get them set right. A neighbor taught me how so I just bought six traps and the digging tool. There is also a kit which includes the instructional DVD.

Zeuspaul

Here is a link that might be useful: Gopher Guy Traps

Thanks everybody. I'm wondering if the "gopher traps" work for moles. However, I think I agree with kimmsr, this will be ongoing. The story about the bucket was interesting. It's been my experience the only time I see the little guys are when the are tunneling up my yard- I tried digging one up but i guess he backed up through the tunnel because I couldn't get him. I think a good tomcat and a terrier would help control population, but not possible.
I would like to try the castor oil method. I wonder if I dilute it with H20, and cover all my grass with it? They definitely didn't like the granules, but like you said, I think the concentration wasn't high enough.
Would castor oil be harmful to plants, insects, kids?
Is this something that would be tracked in my house?
Maybe a late fall application, when we don't go out a lot would be best?
Also, I saw a product that contained "predator urine." Anybody think that would work?
Anyway, thanks for all of your input everybody!!!!!!

Re: "predator urine". Since a human being hunts/preys upon moles, that makes our urine "predator urine". Who knew it would be that easy?

Did you happen to scroll down to the mole video? Pretty interesting re: size of runs and how to tell if used often. He sets some traps and then digs up later with two moles trapped. This seems like less mess and bother than the castor oil method.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:141986}}

Novice, I would use mole traps for moles and gopher traps for gophers. I have a few moles but don't bother with them because they don't destroy my plants and trees and the population seems to remain very small.

In my experience traps work for gopher control. If I were to wait for a predator or some kind of smell to scare away my gophers I would lose fruit trees or plants because it doesn't take very long for them to destroy a plant.

As soon as I see a mound I set a trap and keep at it until I get the guy. You need a body count. You don't want to wonder.

Trapping can be 100 percent effective until one wanders in from a neighbor. Trap them as soon as they arrive and hope that your neighbors do the same.

Zeuspaul

borderbarb, I can't watch videos on this computer.

I had a vole get into my house two years ago. Traps didn't work, as the vole was so small, it could sneak out the sides. But, I used a mousetrap with peanut butter as the bait, and had success in a single night.

Question for those of you trapping the moles: What do you do with it after you've trapped it?

I am trying Permatill this year. It is pricey.

Here is a link that might be useful: Permatill's VoleBloc

when I tried to catch voles outside, used pb and apple slices as bait. they took neither. They seem to have backed off for now, as my guess is they've got plenty of food right now.
The moles: still a MAJOR problem. They've become immune to the castor oil granules, and when I sprinkle them on the garden, they don't take off. I have to water basil/dill seedling area daily, so that's where they head- and veggies are close.
Looked at trap at local garden store-looks a little complicated. I'm going to try one more thing, then the traps.
Its greenwise brand, think. It takes batteries, and you put it in the ground, not the tunnels or holes- it works best in hard clay soil-that's what we have! Anyway, then it sends out vibrations and buzzing sounds to scare them away- suppose to work 30ft. So for my veggie garden, I'm using two (spent more money on getting rid of moles than veggie garden itself!)
Let you guys know how they work.
Thanks!!!!!!