If this helps any, a new John Deere JX75, which retails for around $800 to $850, is essentially the same mower as your 14SB. The only two differences that I'm aware of are the color (green instead of silver) and the fact that the JX75s Kawasaki engine is rated at either 6 or 6.5HP instead of 5HP.

The post on the tractor forum has a link for the part you are looking for. The seller sounds like he would help you with the install or at least give you some pointers.

Doug

Thanks for all your comments. I spoke with the big John Deere dealer in town today and he can repair or replace the transmission, so that's the way I'm going to go. The 14SB really has been a great machine for the last 10 years.

The transmission problem appears to be a fairly common with this mower. I have 3 14SBs and 2 of them have had the transmission go on them. I have even taken one of the trans apart to see if it was just a broken gear, but I was never able to diagnose to specific problem. While $300 may not seem bad for the trans, also beware of the clutch and belts. You may find yourself spending another $200-$300 there. I also just had the lower part of the handle snap in half last weekend for no apparent reason. With three mowers I have tried to cobble parts from one, so it hasn't been terribly expensive. The Kawasaki engine is great and I have had no problems there. If you only spend $300 and the mower runs great for another 5-10 years you probably made a sound decision. If you have to put an additional $300-$400 into it for miscellaneous things you may wish you bought a new one. Ask the repair facility if they will give you a 1 yr. warranty on the trans. Hindsight will always be 20/20. You know your mower, just go with your gut.

The transmission is around $165. I got one on e-bay for $38 and installed it myself. Yes, I would replace the transmission. The other wear parts on a JX75 are the wheels, the gears in the rear axles, and the blade brake. But, the lawn mower does everything and everything well. I am 62 years old, and am planning on dying still operating this mower.

the john deere is the only selfpropel besides my hydro honda that i havnt had trans problems with.

fishdude: Sounds like you are doing some commercial mowing. Were your 14sb's sold as a commercial walkbehind mowers? Also, how many different operators do you have using these machines? I know the new JX75/85's are sold as a residential WB. Different operators have different habits. Also, be aware that the rear wheels are driven by the transmission, i.e. the rear wheels are coupled by gears to the trans output shaft. If you bounce the unit on the ground accidentally while loading/unloading subsequent transmission damamge is not considered normal wear and tear & is not warrantable.

Thanks for the comments fishndude. I also had the lower part of the handle snap off a couple of years ago and I have worn the tread off of the original back tires and replaced them. The mower is now back from the shop with its new transmission and is running great, so here's hoping that I've already replaced everything that's going to break!

My 14SB have never been used commercially. One I purchased originally, the others my dad and father-in-law purchased and gave them to me after they retired. All were used to cut about 1/4-1/3 acres lots. They were probably treated better than all of us treated our wives. Serviced regularly, wiped down after each use, etc.. The units were never bounced and all of the lots are completely flat.

I have just bought my first JD Â a secondhand 14SB for $100! It LOOKS like new, model sticker still on Kawasaki motor! Only thing missing is the recoil starter, but uses the old rope-around-the-pulley-and-PULL to startr, which it does great! I would love to get hold of a manual online if possible.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

BTW Â I am only 69 years young (Praise the Lord!) and a retired expatriate Australian!

Try calling John Deere directly and see if they can sell you a service manual for the 14SB. You may call 1-800-522-7448 to purchase a hard copy of any product manual.

Transmission is a sealed unit and over $100 to replace. any ideas?

Does any one know how to replace the wheels on a John Deere 14SB walk behind? I have worn off the rubber and have replacement wheels. I am mechanically challenged and have been looking for a schematic that show how to do it. I haven't found anything.

Thanks!

does anyone know how to replace a belt on the John Deere 14sb.
It looks tricky.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

you must remove the engine and take some of the bbc apart to change the belt

I am looking for a short block for a 14sb Kawasaki John Deere self propelled mower. If anyone has a mower that the transmission is shot but would sell the rest of mower I would also be interested.

I think the 14SB was the best, and would totally be worth a trans replacement. I was contemplating what JD mower to buy to add to my fleet and the 14sb kept coming to the top of the list. I found one in a lawnmower shop junk pile.I bought it for $25. All the deere needed was a tire bolt. Before I find a parts dealer in my area, can anyone tell/give me an esitmate on what a drive wheel gear spur will cost?it's striped from being used with the bent wheel bolt

i've owned mine for 14 years and feel that i've got my $600 worth, rather than the cheap junk mowers that need replaced every 5 years.
i've replaced my wheels several times, and now ordered the rear wheel gear spurs that are stripped. two handle bars broke also.
do not hose down the deck or the blade clutch will go bad, if you do then run the mower to expell the water. i did replace the self-propel cable a few times, then found out I installed it wrong.
i've also replaced the blade twice and ordered the john deere mulch blade so i hope it lasts longer, i do sharpen it twice a year.
the rear wheel bolts needed replaced also.
if the wheel spurs fix my problem, i may keep it, but i'm thinking about getting a honda next time for better maintenance.

I possible I would like to find instructions on how to replace the belt. Free would be excellent!

How do you replace the belt on a john deere 14SB.

I have a well-used John Deere 14SB silver deck walk-behind mower. It's been a good mower but perhaps not maintained so well (my neighbor gave it to me when he had trouble starting it). A couple of cables rusted/corroded/froze up from outdoor storage and after some work with some WD-40 I got the drive gear working again, except now it's constantly in drive and you have to fight it to pull it backwards, turn corners, etc. I can live with that for my home mowing, but the latest: hard-starting (I got the manual and tried some choke/throttle adjustments and cleaned the air filter). NOW the problem is that when I try to engage the blade the motor dies. ust by my description (not actually seeing the machine)the local lawn mower repair shop said the motor is prob. dead, that even just a cable replacement wouldn't be worth the price (they quoted $60-80 just for a cable and said you can NOT retrofit anything else to work). If I could just "get it to mow" I'd be happy. Any suggestions?

I'm not sure if I should have posted that last one as a follow-up since I'm not following up on any previous posts (but saw that others asked new questions). I also posted the same question as a new post with same subject. Thanks for any and all help or suggestions! (and I guess I got a really GOOD DEAL getting this mower for free -- I had no idea that they were so highly-regarded!)

AS RB And I have offered on other thread , repairing may well be a valid investment !

I did this yesterday so I know. Remove the blade. Unhook the clutch spring from the mower body. (You can do this by pushing a big flat screwdriver into the body of the spring and levering it back against an edge of the clutch assembly, thus extending the spring towards the body until you can lift it off). Undo the four bolts that fix the clutch assembly to the body and then the four bolts that fix the motor to the body. Wriggle the motor off and there you are. You can leave the aforementioned spring attached to the body, and with a bit more wriggling remove it after the motor is off if you prefer.

I have 2 john deere 14se mowers in almost mint condition if anyone is interested,they have been in storage for many years,I posted the craigslist link of my ad,excellent forum by the way!

Here is a link that might be useful: 2 COMMERCIAL JOHN DEERE 14SE MOWERS

I have 2 john deere 14se mowers in almost mint condition if anyone is interested,they have been in storage for many years,I posted the craigslist link of my ad,excellent forum by the way!

Here is a link that might be useful: 2 COMMERCIAL JOHN DEERE 14SE MOWERS

I have a john deere 14sb walk behind lawn mower. I,d like to replace the blade clutch but can't figure out how to remove the old clutch

I have had my 14sb since buying it new in the mid 90's. It works great but suddenly it's breaking the left rear wheel bolt time and time again. Does anyone know why?

Re the transmission in the 14SE/SB I just got given one for free, and was not too impressed but then I noticed the Kawasaki engine (wow!) and decided that it was worth fixing. My 14 SE had a completely seized up transmission and 3 broken cables. Only the blade clutch cable was working...but it's really the only one you need. The throttle mech still works fine with no cables.

You can just remove and throw away the speed control and throttle control, cut off the belt drive, remove and discard the transmission and still have a very nice, MUCH easier to push commercial mower when you are done. About an hour's work in all. Pull off the electric starter too while you are at it and then you have a nice lightweight, uncomplicated commercial mower that has far fewer parts to maintain.

I have a John Deere 14sb 21" that does not have enough vacuum any more to bag grass and leaves like it use to. I had the carburetor cleaned and adjusted and increased the RPM's but it still does not pressurize the bag enough. Would a defective clutch contribute to that?

If the clutch is slipping it would reduce the air volume for sure. Also a blade that is completely worn out, an incorrect blade, or a blade installed upside down would do the same thing.

Is the bottom of the deck clean of built up grass?

It also helps if you keep the bag clean. If air cannot escape the bag you cannot forced grass clippings into it.