I have detailed instructions on adjusting the valves AND checking the operation of the compression release IF you would like them. IF you adjusted the valves the way you said, you didn't do it right.

I am assuming this is a single cylinder OHV engine. You need to post the model number and type number of your engine to get accurate information.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net (put in proper format)

First thing you do is make sure that you have no parasitic load on your engine like your drive system or your attachment( mower deck ) not disengaging. If that checks out then take a set of reliable jumper cables and connect your battery to one end and the other end connect to a good ground and the positive directly to the starter post. This will let you know if you have a bad ground on your starter mount or engine mount and let you know if you have a resistance issue with your tractor wiring that would cause your starter to not function properly. Also how did the shop check the starter (under a load) or did they just put juice to it and said it spins,its good. A tired starter takes more amperage to turn over an engine then a new one. Make sure the starter drive pinion gear is not staying engaged with the flywheel ring gear as this is a common problem with briggs starter gears.
Make sure when you do your valve adjustments that you actually are at 1/4 inch past tdc on the compression stroke and not on exhaust stroke. Due a compression test on your combustion chamber for abnormally high compression.
Check the proper functioning of your rocker arms. I've had valve guides back out of the head on these engines.
If all external probable causes aka flywheel magnets coming loose and causing havoc with your alternator or flywheelkey sheared, then pull engine and check compression release mechanism on camshaft, briggs did have an issue with the return spring breaking and it could be covered under warranty if thats the case.

"then pull engine and check compression release mechanism on camshaft,"

AS I said above, I have a way of checking the operation of the compression release without pulling the engine. No sense in wasting the time and effort IF that is not the problem.

Walt Conner

ok walt, if you have some good way of checking the release problem i sure would like know, because i'm 67 and dont like to waste to much energy.please let meknow by email or posting thanks for come back.

You have to email Walt first!
Then, he can than copy & paste them into the reply.
He's older than you are and doesn't like to waste time either:-)

Yeah davie let us know how you make out with testing the compression release on an engine you cant turn over. Especially seeing how sometimes a broken compression release mechanism will function then it will not, its a moving part not a cam lobe.

Do I sense a touch of skepticism here?

Walt Conner

"eingine will only move to copression stroke.pulled out plug,and it turns over good,replaced plug and it does the same thing.starter checked out ok by shop"

No skepticism, a bump test on the valve( if that is the method of your determining if the compression release is bad)is great if the only thing that could go wrong with a mechanical hinging cam is a broken spring. But what if you have a binding or sticking cam. One that will fly out and not return until its good and ready. Hence the sometimes it spins fine and then other times it stops on the compression stroke( kind of like that retractable starter on the chainsaw that sometimes grabs and other times don"t. As he stated above it spins fine with no spark plug, so we can assume that there is probably nothing else stopping the motor from turning under compression except maybe an inadequate starting circuit.
So like I said before, after you eliminate all external probable causes then it will have to be an internal problem. Its not a kohler courage so I guess you"ve gotta pull it.That is like I said before AFTER you eliminate the starting circuit etc.
Best Wishes on your troubleshooting adventures and remember the only stupid question is the one not asked.
Sincerely Jim.
P.S. More info then then 17hp Briggs would help.

"Especially seeing how sometimes a broken compression release mechanism will function then it will not, its a moving part not a cam lobe"

"One that will fly out and not return until its good and ready. Hence the sometimes it spins fine and then other times it stops on the compression stroke"

"after you eliminate all external probable causes then it will have to be an internal problem."

First, we don't know positively that he has eliminated all external probable causes.

I think, if you will check, that I told him in my first post that he may not have adjusted the valves correctly. There are other possibilities besides not following proper procedure in adjusting the valves. Also, there is nothing in any of his posts about the problem being intermittent.

I sent him proper valve adjusting procedure plus compression release test to use AFTER adjusting the valves and you can also tell if it is a bad cam lobe OR the compression release mechanism its' self. Yes, a worn out cam lobe can cause much the same symptoms regardless of the presence of a mechanical compression release. I like to have some idea what I am dealing with before I just plunge in and start tearing apart. Do the cheap, easy things first.

By the way, there is no "bump" in the compression release of this engine.

Walt Conner

First, we don't know positively that he has eliminated all external probable causes

Thats why i told him to check that in my initial response to him Duh

Also, there is nothing in any of his posts about the problem being intermittent

i still have problems with starting it.
Sounds intermittent to me. The key word here is still.

And I believe the object of relieving compression on an engine is to open,bump crack,relieve, pass gas whatever you want to call it, it still adds up to the same thing does it not. Or maybe you have a mystical evaporation method that you could share with the rest of us unworthy ones.

Have a nice day

My money's on Walt
He's PROVEN HIMSELF on these forums over the years!

Guess you"ve never heard the saying ' A fool and his money are soon parted ".

It seems pretty obvious to me that davie needed to fine tune the valve adjustment procedure. A common misinterpretation of how these valves need to be adjusting. 9 in 10 times you're cranked up and down the road. I remember a post a while back on the numbers of valve adjustment instructions and other tips that Walt was good enough to email out. I don't remember how many- but it reminded me of the Mc Donald's sign- though probably not quite in the billions served... Chill out. This board is a friendly place for the average guy to get a bit of help.

This message is directed to "Walt". I would like to have copies of both the "correct" valve adjustment process and the "external" compression release test procedure.

Thanks,

Tom

Had same problem with mine, I followed Walt's tips on valve adjustment etc, to no avail and ended up replacing the camshaft as the pin on the counterweighted release was worn down to the level of the cam lobe and therefore could not lift the inlet valve. Now it's like a new one again. Thanks Walt.

Does anyone have a part number for the automatic pressure release on a B&S engine?

The compression release mechanism on all current B&S engines is apart of the cam . So you have to purchase a camshaft.