Fall lawn project advice needed (long post)

14 years ago

Boy...I'm not quite sure where to start. I guess I'll start with some facts (in no particular order):

1. House is newer and lawn is 3 years old. We have lived here 3 months.

2. Have 66,000 sq. ft of lawn (measured it)

2a. No idea where lawn seed came from. Best guess is it's ~40%+/- KBG with fescues and ryegrass.

2b. Obvious that previous owner DID NOT use a spring pre-emergent (crabgrass) as about 6 weeks ago the crabgrass just exploded.

2c. The lawn quality in the front of the house isn't bad, but the back is somewhat thin.

3. Live in NW Wisconsin zone 4a

4. House is in the country and is surrounded on 3 sides (and across the road)by fields consisting of corn, soybeans and fieldgrasses.

5. Soil is very sandy....VERY sandy!

5a. Looks as if the previous owner had very little to no top soil brought in.

6. Do not have sprinkler system now but maybe in the future.

7. Watering the lawn is not a problem. Have well with constant pressure pump system and "pump and dump" geothermal system and I use the geo water when the AC is running.

8. Up until last week I was mulching at 2.75" and are now bagging. I have a feeling I may have spread crabgrass seed in the mulching process(?). I wanted to start bagging anyway in preparation for the fall project.

8a. I'm betting that the lawn was never aerated.

9. Money is tight so for example...I'm not going to by my favorite fertilizer = Scott's. Have to go with something less expensive.

What I have done in the 3 months I've been here:

1. Ortho WBG w/crab control just after we moved in and again in the past week.

2. Starter fertilized a few smaller areas to encourage some growth. I did this before the heat set in mid-June

My goals are:

1. Improve the overall appearance and quality of the lawn

2. Eliminate as much crabgrass as possible

3. While I would like to have the perfect weed/crab free lawn (I've had them before) with the fields around me this just is not an option I'll be able to afford.

So I'm thinking the following:

1. Aerate (but when?)

2. Fall (September) then November fertilizer application

3. Topdress

4. Overseed w/slitseeder

With so much lawn (and the $$) I'm thinking of only doing 1 and 2 this fall. Then 3 and 4 next spring. If I do it this way when should I aerate?

I know you folks will recommend a soil test. I'd think I'd need 2 (or more?) to get a good feel as to what I'm facing BUT....I'm afraid the tests MIGHT show that I need to spends $$ I don't have to get the soil quality to optimum levels. In previous houses this wouldn't be an issue but I'll be happy with "good".

I'll take some pictures of the lawn and post later.

Thanks to all for your thoughts!

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Comments (5)

grass1950
14 years ago
A couple things to consider:

1. Spring is not the best time to seed or overseed.
Pre-emergents are the best defense against CG.
Pre-emergensts need to be applied in the Spring.
Pre-emergents are not selective and will prevent turf seed from germinating. (Except sudifan (sp?) and it is very expensive).

2. Don't aerate at this time (maybe never)
I'm not an opponent of aeration. I use it myself when called for and to move topdressing into the soil.
I Would not recommend aeration for your lawn. A three year old lawn is not going to have thatch build-up and sandy soils are unlikely to be compacted. Bottom line, it is not going to be worth the effort and money expended for any advantages it may give.

Other than the aerating and seeding in the Spring instead of this fall, you've got a workable plan.
1111gd1111 3b NW WI
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks 1950. So what you are suggesting is to top dress and slit seed this fall (I think next month here)? If so, what about fall/pre-winter fertilization?

If I don't aerate, what about tine de-thatching before the slit seed and top dress?

I can start the fertilizing program properly with the pre-emergents next early spring.
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grass1950
14 years ago
I suggest slit seeding then topdress. I use a thin coating of peat moss to protect the seed. You can start using organics next summer to add organic matter to the soil.
If you do not have bare soil showing, Bag mow at 1". Adjust the verticutter (fixed blade slitseeder) to just above soil height and do a run. (just as good as using a detatcher). Follow by bag mowing at 1" again or leafrake the dead matter.

Broadcast spread seed.

Reset the verticutter (slitseeder) at 1/8- 1/4" depth and ,make two passes )second at 45 degree angle to first pass).

Roll lawn (optional but recommended).

Spread thin layer of topdressing (just enough to cover any bare seed)

Apply a starter fertilizer at 1/2 suggested bag rate.

Keep soil damp (2-3 light waterings daily.)

Once majority of seed germinates, water twice a week at 1/2" water per applicaton. Apply second application of starter fertilizer. After third mowing adjust watering to once a week at 1" (rain and watering total).

Between late October to late November add winterizer fertilizer.

Next Spring apply pre-emergent. then organics monthly as you can afford until late August then synthectics Sept, Oct. and Nov.
grass1950
14 years ago
My bzd. You have very sandy soil. Once majority of seed germinates water daily--maybe 1/4" daily-more if weather is hot and dry. After third mowing water 2x weekly 1/2" per application epending on rainfall.
1111gd1111 3b NW WI
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks 1950 for the very detailed process....exactly what I needed!