Don't add lime or any nutrients like iron to your soil without a soil test. At this point you are guessing as to why the plants are yellowing.

Watering every day on any soil other than sand is a problem. How long are you watering and with what? If you are watering for a short duration you may be underwatering because the water isn't getting into the root zone and if you are watering a longer period of time you are certainly overwatering. Either way daily watering is rarely necessary.

Also, what does 'plenty of compost' mean? Roughly how many inches of compost were added to the growing area? If you used a halfway decent compost you aren't likely having an iron deficiency. If you also added a synthetic fertilizer, what was it? Just NPK or did it have iron as well?

Iron deficiencies usually show up in soils where the pH is higher than the plant likes, not lower.

Anyway, provide some more info please and we can try to assist, but please don't go adding this and that chasing symptoms or you risk making things worse.

Definitely get a soil sample to a lab for basic testing (macro nutrients and pH). You can also get iron and other nutrients tested if you want to.

I am not sure about Oregon but here in Tx at this time of year it's so hot and dry that the yellowing is just the first sign of the end for the different vegetables. And watering or not watering does not matter all that much. That may not be the case for you but it just might be the time for that to happen to your plants. Good luck......DT

Thanks for the replies.
As for compost...
Two of my raised beds were filled this year with a compost /soil blend from my local garden center. The remainder of the garden has my local soil with about a yard of my own compost in 100 sq. foot area on a yearly basis.

Oregon is one of the few states that does not offer soil tests from the CES. Names of decent labs would be appreciated.

The reason I thought it would be iron is that my roses need Ironite every year to stop yellowing of foliage.

As for fertilizer..I used a sparse addition of Lilly Miller NPK semi-organic vegetable fertilizer given to me in a container from a few years back. Sorry...no bag for nutrient info.

I hand water with a sprayer only on the days that are in the mid 80s and higher and try not to over soak. I will check the soil on th specific plants that are yellowing.

PS: I realize now that I did not do the proper homework / prep on soil due to time constraints this spring and I am paying for it. Yet, it is better to have the garden in than no garden- even though I am learning the hard way!

Well, here is a way to do a quick check on nutrients without a soil test. WARNING: what follows is decidedly not organic.

Get some Miracle Grow all purpose fert and mix according to instructions and pour on the garden at the rate of 1 gallon full strength dilution per 10 sq ft of growing area. Wait 5 days. If plants do not turn around it isn't iron or any other nutrient problem.

MG is very fast acting because it bypasses the soil fauna. For an organic garden this isn't really desirable, but for a quick as possible test for nutrient deficiencies it works quickly. If this turns your garden around then you have to get the soil test done (send the sample to the next state) to figure out what is missing.

I am not saying you should not lime or otherwise adjust pH, rather I am saying there is no point adjusting pH if you don't know what your starting pH is or how much lime to use to get it where it needs to be.

Most likely your soil has dried out more than you realize.

Stick a trowel in it to find out just where the moisture is.

You can get lots of help from your county's Extension Service where most have Master Gardeners available to answer questions from folks like you.

For starters, take a look at this publication -- Growing Your Own. http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/html/grow/grow/

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Your Own (veggies in OR)