You will see results next year. Most of your seed probably has not even germinated yet. The fertilizer you put down will definitely help out. Not sure what your existing grass type is, but many do not spread so you will be relying on your overseed to fill in the gaps. Hopefully, you will have a full lawn next year and can tell some improvement before winter arrives.

I'm not sure of my lawn type either. I live in St. louis so I'm assuming KBG. I overseeded with a sun/shade mix which I hope will take form. I just thought I would see results in the next week or two.

If it's KBG, you should wait 3-4 weeks before deciding that it's not germinating. And you should also water 3x a day until you've got good germination.

"You will see results next year". Not sure I would be comfortable with that timetable. If it's anything common other than KBG, you should see germination within 7-14 days. If you've got nothing by day 14, you either had poor soil/seed contact.... Damped off.... or dried out. It's possible to get a small percentage of late germination after 14 days but not nearly the amount you originally put down.

I water my grass every morning for approx 20 minutes. In the morning the grass is already very wet so I figure I don't need more than 20 minutes. I do see some grass coming up in areas but not all areas. The mix is ryegrass, creeping fescue, and KBJ. How long do I have to water daily. I am going on day 11.

You should have seen some (maybe most) of the rye germinate by now. The fescue should have at least started. The KBG could take another week or longer.

Instead of watering once a day for 20 minutes, can you water 3 times a day for 10 minutes? Or, if the lawn is staying wet in the morning, maybe you can just water twice a day. The goal is to keep the seeds and maybe the top half inch of soil damp. You don't want the seeds to dry out, and they probably do if you only water once a day.

>"How long do I have to water daily."

This is just a guide - not gospel. Adjust if you are puddling.

"follow this irrigation schedule after planting your new seeds.

water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks
water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week
move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week. If you have to move the sprinklers at any point, the new location also receives 1 inch.

After seeding, baby the grass by staying off for 1-2 months. Mow when the new seeds reach 3 inches and mow it back to 2. "

I think you might be coming to the wrong conclusions about what is going on.

I overseeded my backyard this spring but did not overseed my front yard because at the time the front looked like it would be okay (first year in house). Needless to say, the backyard grass grew wonderfully but the front ended up looking thin.

It was not 'needless to say.' A lot of people who seed in the spring are not happy even at first.

I used Scotts fertilizer but it seemed to make grass worse. This summer had a fungus all over lawn and it killed all the new grass in backyard and left patches in front.

Depending on when you used the Scott's, the fertilizer might have been adding to the stress on the grass already. Lawns that are seeded in the spring do not always live through the summer. Why? Because the tender roots cannot take the summer heat. As in your case, you lost the entire lawn. I'm not surprised. If you follow this forum long enough, spring seeded lawns can't be expected to thrive all summer. The Scott's might have been the final straw to break the camel's back. You may or may not have had a fungus.

Last Sunday I overseed with Scotts Sun/Shade seeds and put fertilizer soil, seeds and mulch in bald areas. Some areas are filling in but other areas are doing NOTHING. It seems to me I only have more thin areas. It is too early to tell? How long before I see some results?

I have never over-seeded but I have followed closely the plans and results of professionals and homeowners for years. Most professional landscapers will not add soil or mulch when reseeding. They will scrape the surface with a slit seeder or power rake, apply the seed, and roll the surface with a water fillable roller. By adding soil and mulch you have additional factors affecting germination. I would continue watering as others have said, for 3-4 weeks to be sure any KBG seed comes in. An easy mistake to make with mixed seeds is to water until the fescue and rye come in and then back off just before the KBG seed germinates. Then you have a yard full of fescue and rye with no KBG at all.

Also my definition of a professional landscaper does not include the guys who mow the lawn. Professionals have yellow pages ads, tractors, dump trucks, a rolladex full of architects and material suppliers, brick and mortar buildings, a reliable, trained crew, and quite often have a college degree in horticulture.