Mushroom come form alot of watering or rain..Fom what i read a 25-5-10..

Bermuda has a fairly high Nitrogen requirement, but can also be "pushed" for high maintenance applications by using very high, frequent N applications. Bermuda has a very long, very strong root system and does not suffer from many environmental stresses, so Phosphate is useless, and the Potash level is not of much consequence. In case you don't know what I'm talking about.... The three numbers on the bag of fertilizer relate in order to Nitrogen, Phosphate, and potassium (or Potash). This is often referred to as N P K. I am not referring to any specific brands or actual blends here, but you should look for something along the lines of 18-2-10, 21-0-12, etc. If you have a highly manicured Bermuda, meaning you cut often and low 3/8th's-1/2 inch, keep up on your irrigation, and have no disease, you can actually apply Urea to it, at the same spreader setting you would use for the other two. It needs to be watered in immediately with no signs of particles left on the turf. Bermuda pushed with Urea will thicken up and creep at an exponential rate. Urea is the strongest form of Nitrogen available for turf at 46-0-0. If you have kids, pets, or roll around on the lawn often, I would not recommend it. You will be good to go with the other blends I mentioned. If you want to see a photo of Riviera Bermuda cut at 3/8ths that is pushed with Urea every two weeks, I have a photo in the Hybrid Bermuda thread. Good luck.

There are two schools of thought with respect to Bermuda grass fertilization.

1. You can apply one balanced fertilizer application with a ratio of either 3-1-2, or 4-1-2 (15-5-10, 20-5-10) for the first app in the spring after it has greened up about 50 to 75%.

2. Or you can apply the balanced fertilizer for the last application about 30 to 45 day before your first frost.

Pick one, but not both

As for the monthly applications you only need a straight nitrogen product. Slow release urea is the best, and if used will only need applied about every 45 days. Lesco makes the best in the biz with a 75% slow release, and 25% quick release in a 39-0-0 formula. You can even get it with iron.

I converted to the Lesco product (#00777) this year and have had great success. With the slow release it won't burn (even applied to wet grass) and stays very green.

Wragler I guess I am getting to folks, way to go.

Texas-weed. I used a balanced fertilizer on the bermuda when it started greening up this spring. You stated not to use a balanced fertilizer for the last fertilization if used a balanced in the spring. Just wondering what the reason for that. What would you suggest for the last fertilization. Thanks for all the help and appreciate all the information from everyone.

I used a balanced fertilizer on the bermuda when it started greening up this spring. You stated not to use a balanced fertilizer for the last fertilization if used a balanced in the spring. Just wondering what the reason for that. What would you suggest for the last fertilization.

It is fairly simple; Phosphorous and Potassium are used very sparingly by plants and relatively stable in the soil. Whereas Nitrogen is heavily used by plants and freely moves, or purges from the soil via water movement. A 1-time application per year is all that is necessary with respect to Phosphorous and Potassium. In fact in a lot of areas P and K are never needed.

Using a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio balanced fertilizer once per year is a generic recommendation in lieu of a soil test. 3-1-2 is what is known as Mother NatureÂs natural balance. So if you want to know exactly what your soil test needs, only your soil dresser knows for sure via a test. If you have a soil test done, the lab will give you the exact amount of P and K needed in one application for the year.

So since you applied a balanced fertilizer in the spring, all you need to do is give a final Nitrogen only application about 45 days before you expect your first frost. At this time you can have a soil test done, and see what you really need next spring, or if you react quickly and get the test results quickly you can add what is recommended this year and be done with it until next Fall.

So I stand by what I say; only one balanced application per year. DoesnÂt matter the grass type.

Makes sense. Thanks for the info.