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chickenfreak

Science: Winter Trials

15 years ago

All righty, then. Science. Let's talk about gardening trials. Carol Deppe assures her readers that you can generally design trials into your plantings, gaining information usually without losing food.

This year I have eight ounces each of five varieties of garlic, and a whole bunch of potato onions. This opens up the opportunity for a variety of trials, though insufficient preplanning on my part limits the usefulness of the information that some might produce:

- I could do a simple variety trial: Grow all five varieties of garlic in conditions that are as close to identical as possible, and evaluate the total weight of good garlic at harvest time. Unfortunately, there's a lot of variety in the conditions of my garden - nasty clods of clay soil are within a few feeet of gorgeous fine-grained soil apparently full of organic matter.

So to really trial the garlic, I'd have to interplant, so that the conditions for each clove would essentially be random, and with a large enough planting (would 8 ounces be large enough?) they'd average out. Then, at the end of the trial, I'd have to figure out which kind of garlic was which. To do this, I'd have had to choose the garlics accordingly, like one red and one white hardneck, and one red and one white softneck. I'll look over the garlics to see if at least two of them are that easily distinguishable, and consider an interplanted bed.

- Since I have a variety of soil conditions, that in itself could be useful for a trial. Just yesterday I dug a bed that might be useful for a bit of information - roughly half of it was nasty clay clods, half was finer-grained, easier-to-work soil. I planted it with yellow potato onions at a consistent spacing.

The "roughly" part of "roughly half" will limit the value of my results, but I will nevertheless be interested to see how the onions on the clay side (more nutritious, I suspect, but more resistant to the expanding clumps of onions) compare to those on the other side. Will they produce more or less poundage? More or fewer individual onons? Cleaner or messier onions? More or less insect damage?

A much bigger flaw than the "roughly" part is the issue of watering. The bed is near the fence, so on low-water-pressure days the automated irrigation may peter out before it gets to the less-clay side of the bed. If I wanted a good trial, I would instead have used soaker hoses.

I'll also, of course, have to confirm that the fence doesn't produce shade on any part of the bed during any part of the growing season. I don't believe that it does; the sun's path, as far as I can recall, is parallel with the line of the fence.

There's also the fact that we had watering issues last year, so that the beans on the clay side grew much bigger than those on the other side. Does that mean that the clay side will have more nitrogen but less of other nutrients? The obvious solution to that would have been to thoroughly mix the soil in the bed... but since the trial is about soil type, that would tend to negate the whole point.

With so many factors going against a clean trial, results of this will be in the "interesting" realm, and not the least bit definitive. I'll mostly have learned either (1) potato onions can grow just fine in clay or (2) potato onions may or may not have trouble with clay.

- I've gotten two or three different kinds of advice on fertilizing garlic - don't fertilize until the greens are up, fertilize at planting with a complete fertiizer with a fairly low nitrogen number, sprinkle a little bone meal in the hole when planting, and so on. "Sprinkle a little bone meal" seems like the most easily tested - since it's per _hole_, I could dibble my holes, sprinkle bone meal in every other one so that the fertilized plants are distributed across the bed, plant my garlic, and next year see if the sprinkled ones seem any happier. It would require some pretty careful marking or a careful diagram, but I can do that.

I could also, or instead, do the same thing for every other tulip. I'd be happier with that, since bone meal touching my food crops gives me a slight queasiness, but on the other hand _everybody_ seems to advocate bone meal on flower bulbs, so it's not as if I'm testing a controversy.

I'll keep thinking.

ChickenFreak

Comments (7)

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Clay will hold nutrients and water longer than sand but can also remain to wet. The nutrients will leach out over time in the sand much more rapidly than the clay but can get to dry. Both will benefit from organic matter.(Compost)

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    My experience has been that the typical gardening situation has so many variables that the conclusions become apparent over many seasons and in an intuitive fashion.

    OTOH, most of the issues facing a gardener/small scale food-producer have been figured out. No need to re-invent the wheel. If one's tubers used to grow good size and have been getting progressively smaller, then one has been exhausting K in the soil, to use a common example. One could go growing potatoes here and there trying to figure out why the tubers are so small, or simply add a source of K.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I enjoy gardening

    .....and intend to continue enjoying it ..the Lord willing.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    wayne, do you have any data to comfirm this or is it all just hearsay?LOL!!!

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    myluck,

    It is hearsay, looksay, feelsay, and resultssay.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Re:

    "OTOH, most of the issues facing a gardener/small scale food-producer have been figured out. No need to re-invent the wheel."

    In general, yes, but not necessarily in my garden, my soil, my climate, and my specific and rather sloppy plant-caretaking habits. :) I realize that you're not trying to criticize or shut me down, so I'm not trying to start a debate - I'm just going to ramble on anyway, justifying the trials to myself. But, really, as long as they're fun, I suppose they don't need any justification. And I do find them fun. I'm an overthinker; I enjoy having an excuse to think more about the garden.

    As an example: I might read that "X tomato is the most productive". It may or may not tell me that that productivity requires that I eliminate all weed competition. But it's not likely to tell me, say, how X does under dryfarming conditions -- even the folks doing dryfarming research can't trial absolutely everything. And I'd like to try dryfarming some crops; water bills this year were high!

    If I want to dryfarm (drygarden?) tomatoes, and find out which of my favorites tolerate that treatment, I'll probably have to do my own trials. I can choose a control that's known to do well in dryfarming, choose a few of my favorites, and learn something useful - at least useful to me. Now, this isn't a zero-cost trial - it will save me water but cost me space and fruit, since dryfarming involves wide spacing and some of the plants might not survive and the others will of course be less productive. But we have excess space for a few years, so now, if ever, is the time for the dryfarming trials. Also, dryfarmed tomatoes are supposed to be the most delicious; I want to know if that's true.

    Come to think of it, my well-watered tomatoes this year were highly productive - of green tomatoes. It's mid-October and I've still gotten barely one edible tomato off some of the plants that are groaning under the weight of the green fruit. Since withholding water is supposed to accelerate ripening, I might not have much of a productivity loss at all, when considered in terms of edible fruit.

    And there are areas where the experts don't agree. They all seem to agree, for example, that garlic shouldn't have too much nitrogen at winter-planting time, when the garlic's job is to put out roots. But the other fertilization advice seems to be different for each expert. I'll no doubt get perfectly good garlic with any of the strategies, but which one works best? It's fun to try to find out.

    And some trials cost me essentially nothing at all. I believe that I can tell Purple Italian and Premium White garlic apart at harvest. I could plant them in separate patches with almost certainly different soil/sun/water conditions and learn something about how they compare in my garden under my care, or I could grow them interplanted so that they get identical conditions and learn a fair bit more. I get just as much garlic either way. The closest thing to a risk is that one will be ready for harvest sooner than the other and so the space will be tied up longer than it would have. That doesn't worry me. (OK, the other possible risk is that one will be ready for me to withhold water sooner than the other. I can live with that.)

    ChickenFreak

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I like rambling. That's what forums are for, IMO.

    Regarding dry tomatoes: you must have soil with pretty good moisture-holding capacity. If I tried that in my soils production would likely be zero. But heck, I should try it for one plant and see, might be surprised.