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cold / warm weather orchids

18 years ago

I live in Julian, a small community in the mountains of San Diego. i am still pretty much a virgin in the orchid community. so i was wondering if anybody could give me a little direction? julian hits the100s in the summer and drops well into the 20s and lower in the winter. with the occasional snow. is there a variety i can leave out most of the year? i have also heard of varietys that grow in high elevations but i dont know if any of the are redily available. thanks for your time

Dominic

Comments (9)

  • 18 years ago

    Laelia anceps comes right to mind with me. Cattleya intermedia might just work also.

  • 18 years ago

    I have a mounted gastrochilus. It is new to me, so I haven't had it through winter yet, but from what I understand it likes cooler weather.

    Sarah

  • 18 years ago

    Unfortunately, there is no orchid that could survive the temperature extremes you describe. You could select a warm-growing variety and protect in the winter, or, vice versa, select a cooler-grower and bring it inside during the summer. But that would be the extent of your options, short of building a greenhouse.

    -Bruce C.

  • 18 years ago

    Check the Santa Barbara Orchid Estate website for temperature tolerant orchids. I think that you'll find a few that will do for you.

  • 18 years ago

    Nope. Bruce is on the money. There are some temperate zone species that spend cold winters as dormant bulbs but almost to a one they are fussy or endangered or both. If you have the orchid chops to deal with them you probably wouldn't be asking this question.

    H

  • 18 years ago

    I agree with Bruce and Howard. I live in exactly the same temperature extremes as you (teens to 100+), and there are no epiphytic orchids which will survive here year 'round; they tend to either freeze or roast. Coming from high altitudes, well over 2500m, may give a plant super adaptability to even freezing temps, but that plant will croak once the temps go over 75F or 80F. Same is true in reverse with the really hot growers; they will dimp at low temps.

    The only orchid I can think of that does survive this range and do well is Bletilla striata, a deciduous terrestrial from Japan that blooms in the spring here. It grows just fine in my front yard or in a pot outdoors, although the early flowers do have to covered over if there is frost. It is also called the "Japanese ground orchid."

  • 18 years ago

    Ditto on CJW's suggestion of the Bletilla Striata. It's a ground orchid that will live in our severe winter temperatures here in New Jersey. We get lots of snow and lots of days with temps zero and below, and in the summer we often get temps of 100. There are other ground orchids you may want to research on the internet. I do have many orchids in pots that I hang outside from spring to early fall, and then bring them in for the winter and keep them in my windowsills. Sort of the best of both worlds.

  • 18 years ago

    thank you to all who posted. i will try a couple of your suggestions and see what happens. i am not fond of killing plants so i will take baby steps. and see how far i can push them. hopefully it doesnt end up in disaster.

  • 18 years ago

    I agree. Go to SBOE (Santa Barbara Orchid Estate) and ask them personally what sort of orchid will be suitable for you area (if you intend to grow your orchid outside). 100 degrees is tolerable (if you provide shade cloth and perhaps a mister). But most orchid available will not tolerate below freezing temps without some sort of protection, i.e a greenhouse. Or you have to bring in the plant inside the house during the winter. When I lived in Chicago, I would grow my orchids in my windowsill during the winter and summer them outside. Temps in the midwest would get very hot and humid, but the orchids like it outside. Better than being cooped up inside and getting cabin fever. As I did. Even in Chicago, I couldn't grow Bletias because our winters would get to negative numbers. Laelia anceps and cymbidiums will tolerate cool temps. Sometimes down to freezing. But if you are talking about 20 degrees for long periods, even anceps or cymbidiums may freeze.

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