Are you interested in organic or in synthetic?

for now a synthetic solution

Your pH is in the slightly acidic range, which is right where you want it so you don't need lime or sulfur. Nitrogen is a little on the low side in your test and since it's so transient in soil, it's probably even a little lower now. Potassium, calcium and magnesium are ample. Boron is safely low but sufficient for turf grass nutrition. Copper is on the low side but copper deficiencies are rare in turf, especially in acid soils. Manganese, zinc and iron are all below optimum.

Phosphorous can be supplied with triple super phosphate (0-50-0). I'd shoot for about 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. of actual phosphorous per 1000 sq.ft. so the above fertilizer broadcast at around 4 or 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. would do the trick. Another option to supply both phosphorous and nitrogen together would be ammonium phosphate (16-20-0). If you're using that fertilizer, base your application more on the nitrogen content. A good rate would give you about 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. which would be 6 1/4 lbs. of monoammonium phosphate (16-20-0) per 1000 sq. ft. That would only give you 1.25 lbs. of phosphorous but that probably would be find as long as you pick up the slack in your maintenance program. (turf grass is pretty forgiving when it comes to phosphorous).
Of the low micronutrients, iron and zinc are the most likely to cause your grass to yellow. A good way to head off those deficiencies at the pass is Sprint 330 +Mn applied at the manufacturer's label rate. It provides chelated iron and soluble manganese, which works just fine in acid soils.
Follow all fertilizer applications with a thorough irrigation.

Thanks for the advice. Would it be pointless to try to bring up the PH closer to 7, by adding 2lbs/1000 sq ft of calcitic lime on top of was suggested? The reason I mention is because there are patches of moss in my lawn that I want to get rid of.

I'm planning ahead for the TTTF I plan to overseed this coming fall.

Moss means too much water. The pH is right where your grass wants it.

On a side note, if you did want to bring your pH up to 7, it would take a heck of a lot more than 2 lbs. of lime per 1000 sq. ft. considering the buffer capacity of your soil based on the buffer pH.