If you are not able to harden off your seedlings, you are leaving them out too long, or not in a protected location. One hour out in the real world is long enough, and then they should be in a wind and sun protected area. I think I would work on your hardening off problem before worrying about your seed starting technique. Al

In case it matters, I'm using older seeds and I thought the baggie method may be a good idea for that purpose. Nothing like waiting for sprouts that never happen!

Hi Al! Thanks for responding, but do you mind if I ask what your answer is then? Working on hardening off is actually in Options 2 & 4, but you didn't answer the question. I'm curious which you think is better.

Hi!

Squash, beans, carrots and peas can all be direct sowed into the garden AFTER your last frost date, actually they prefer it. They can take cold soil but not freezing temps. You can cover them at night with plastic if you want to plant early, but I do not think it will speed up the growth rate to get an earlier crop by too much. If you do cover them, make sure the plastic is not touching the plant. Also, you can just start them in regular 'good' gardening soil, they do not need seed starting soil. You should amend your garden soil with compost if needed for good drainage and lots of good microbes.

Now peppers.. pepper love the heat and you will have to start those early inside if you want a crop at a reasonable time. I would put them in a container (cell pack, or repurposed food container like a yogurt tub) fill with seed starting soil, cover and put them in a warm spot like on top of your fridge or cable box. The soil should be kept moist but not wet. In 4-10 days they will germinate and at that time will need to go under bright lights placed about 2-3" above their top leaves. After 4-5 weeks they will be ready to go into the garden after being hardened off.

Hardening off......This is what I do. I put them in 100% shade and out of the wind for 2 hours the first morning (then bring them back inside), the next morning I add a bit of time, like 30 more minutes and give them brief (20 mins) filtered sun. I keep increasing this over a 7-10 day period until they can withstand noon-day sun. I always make sure they can handle full morning sun before they get even 10 mins of the hot noon-day sun. You can keep yours in the shade longer if you are nervous, but you can�t start them out in sun sooner.

Make sure you plant your peppers when the soil is warm, not just the air temps

I hope that helps!

Keriann~

As I read your post you said your problem was hardening off, and so that is what I am trying to help you with. You do not say what your light conditions are. If you want sturdy seedlings you must have enough light, if you don't have enough, get more. Either the baggy method or in flats would work as well if properly done. Al

If you live in Alabama I would assume it is warm enough at least part of the day to put your newly sprouted seedlings outside directly in the sun the day they sprout. I find here in southern California that if I put my just sprouted seedlings in full sun the day they sprout they do not get sunburned and are hardened off from day one. Seedling that get sunburned are ones that are babied too long inside under low light levels. I take my seedlings back inside at night if the predicted low will be below 47 degrees and put them under my fluorescent lights.
After all, volunteer seedlings that sprout by themselves outside are in full sun the day they sprout.

Keriann: Excellent information! This was exactly what I was looking for. Okay, so I have a plan now.

Al: My question was quite clear, "which do you think is the best option?" No worries though. It looks like there is no one option anyway, so that explains it for me.

Californian: Thank you! I agree. The reason I was hesitant is the late frost or soil temperature problem. It's much later in the season when you do it that way. Wow! You're in zone 10 so you probably don't have that problem! ;)