Hello Karen!

In truth, it's not about a regimen. It's all about growing plants that are best suited to the environment and culture you are able to provide. You will never have healthy plants if you have a cold grower in 90F temps, and will never have a healthy plant if you keep a high light plant in low light.

You can fertilize at half strength every other watering during the summer if you want. Sticking strictly to that is not necessary however. And spraying should really only be done if you know you have pests so that's out.

Sorry to be vague but really the question isn't the right question to ask. Grow what is suited to your environment and cultural habits (I.e. Waterig tendencies, preferred potting medium) and you will always have healthy plants. Do this by knowing the plants you have and want. Plus a little trial and error!

I second what terpguy says. It matters.

I feel that there are many different paths to the same success. Many orchids have a range of tolerance. These are the easy ones. Some are more demanding.

Here are some thoughts about what I do in zone 10b in Stuart Florida.

My fertilizer is orchid plus. Endorsed by AOS, is cheap, available at home depot. No urea. I use a tablespoon per gallon every 2 weeks. I always add to the feed maxi-crop, a root stimulator. I also add magi-cal, added minerals. If insecticide is needed I add it in.

The maxi-crop is a game changer and can be used regardless of any special climate or circumstances.

I am heavy handed on water so I use terra cotta pots. Lots of lava rock. Less fir bark and even less sphagnum.

Here is a trick. I have an area of display for blooming orchids and another area for non bloomers. After they are done blooming I leave it on the plant to dry out. That way I can cut them off later with a non sterile tool. Otherwise be careful about transferring possible virus. Several ways. I use a throw away one sided razor blade.

Water early. They like to have a chance to dry.

A modest air flow is needed. They are air plants. I have a ceiling fan in my grow house.

If a plant is not responsive to good care, move it a few feet. Some plants that can make a huge difference.

Kill some plants. If you never lose an orchid you are not pushing the envelope and expanding your universe. It is OK to fail if you learn from your failures. I have plenty of dog tags from lost soldiers. I don't mind failing but I hate to fail the same thing twice.

Years ago a great orchid grower and gardener told me the best fertilizers to be had was footsteps. He said that would provide more benefit than anything else. What he meant was that by walking around and observing your circumstances frequently you will find issues early which will give you a chance at resolution with minimal damage.

For most, attendance at your local orchid society is extremely valuable. I have learned so much from our members and invited speakers.

good luck

SM I'm laughing at that footsteps comment because it runs so counter to to the oft repeated "benign neglect/don't hover" advice. But you are very right in that constant monitoring can help with things like catching pests early.

Wise comments: many paths to the same success. What works for one won't work for another. And what is necessary for one is not necessary for others. SM's mention of fans provides a great example. Many have said they keep fans going in their growing environment. I even know people who say their plants grow better with it. As a house grower I gave up on worrying about air circulation long ago. My plants grow in the dining room so it's not like they are in a stagnant environment. I never noticed a difference in the growth of my own plants. So for me having fans and increasing air circulation is not necessary.

It all really does speak back to growing what is suited for your environment and cultural practices

Air flow in a house is rarely a problem. In a greenhouse environment or outside can matter. Especially in warmer and wetter places like 10b. The airflow helps control fungus, bacteria, mold, mildew. To a human, the perfect airflow is imperceptible. If there is noticeable leaf movement it is probably to strong.

I have a P. sanderianum that started spotting when it wasn't getting enough breeze (broken/non-oscillating fan). Once I read up and determined they like lots of air movement, replaced the broken non-oscillating fan and positioned it accordingly the spotting has stopped. In my very crowded grow room/spare bedroom (80+ orchids currently), a fan seems to be essential for healthy plants???

I like to see the leaves gently moving in the breeze, just my experience/preference...

Bob

Hi Karen,

Adding to what others have said - it's sort of like teaching reading. Many different methods work, even though people may feel strongly about one method over others.

If you have a max/minimum temp/humidity gauge and know your annual temperature and humidity ranges, that's a solid start for choosing orchids. My temps run warm/hot. I'm *dying* to get several intermediate growers and just have to keep picturing them wasting away at my place, just like all the intermediates before....

Other criteria are how many hours of natural light plants get on your windowsill and from which direction(s). Buildings or leaves on nearby trees can reduce light strength and hours of duration in summer.

Also, how much artificial light your plants get. For example, my orchids get direct E/SE light from about 9 am - 1 pm much of the year, supplemented by 16 hours daily of two 45W CFLs and an LED, all about 10"-18" above most of the plants. Lights are on a timer.

Some people cut back on the number of hours of artificial light in winter, but I don't. Also, it works for some to cut back on watering and fertilizing during the winter.

For what it's worth, one large commercial orchid grower fertilizes plants in sphag every 3rd watering; plants in bark or Orchiata, every 4th watering. Same schedule for leaching. "Regular" watering the rest of the time.

My orchids grow in a small bedroom. This winter, a space heater is keeping temps about 10 degrees higher than the rest of the house, and the door's shut. During the summer, the door's open. The fan goes all year 'round.

The same commercial grower says that, if you suspend a longish hair in your growing area, and the air from the fan makes it move slightly, the air circulation's about right.

As for pests - if you check the undersides of leaves when you water and rinse both sides of the leaves with lukewarm water when you leach, it helps. Rinse leaves in the morning so leaves dry before the sun goes down. Otherwise, you risk crown rot, esp. with Phals.

What's worked for me - spraying spring and fall with 1600 X-clude. Plants need to be sprayed outside, one week apart. No direct sun and no wind when you spray. If you decide to go this way, just email me, and I can offer a couple of other tips.

Spot spraying the rest of the year with a natural soap insecticide or with Neem oil has kept pests under control here.

You'll find out what works at your place.

Best, WhiteCat8

Many thanks to all for the thoughtful advice.

Karen