If the tractor would not run with the choke fully opened, it had carburetor issues. As long as the snow blower starts easily and smooths out as the choke opens, it is doing just fine.

Once I get past the 2/3 or 3/4 butterfly open (choke off 1/4) position, it reaches max RPM. Beyond that, it start to reduce RPM and then stalls when the choke is completely off (butterfly is fully opened)

Better still, I called MTD and one rep said to bring it in for a look over and the other said it was fine.

How many minutes are you giving it to "warm up"?

Is this set up where one lever IS the choke and thrittle? IF so, you nay ve simply backing off the throttle too much.

The first 1/4 or so of choke doesn't really do much anyway. It's when it's almost closed where the choking starts to have a noticeable effect.

I let it warm up about 2 - 3 mins. I then tried to throw some snow in the back patio. I never cleared it the last time we got 3 inches. It did that without a problem set at the 2/3 choke opening. I then rechecked and it still didn't want to be opened any further. Would reduce in RPM and if continued to open, it would stall out.

There is a rotary knob for the choke and a lateral slide level for the Throttle. The throttle is set at full speed (all the way to the left).

I would run it a full 10 minutes and see what it'll do.
Not that I expect it to really improve, but you'll be "better armed" when you take it in to get it fixed
2-3 minutes "might" not be sufficient, but 10 should easily be more than enough.

I rant it last night for 20 minutes and along the way tried to open the butterfly valve (turn off the choke) and it still behaved the same way. It was definitely warmed up. I figured that maybe something might have gotten clogged and running it might , shall we say, free things up a bit.

I even went and checked to see if the choke knob was installed correctly (it was) and compared its action to another (the same).

I guess either there is an issue in the carb not allowing enough gas in or it was misadjusted.

Could it be anything else?

I opened the valve to the point when I started to hear the engine reduce in RPMS and then lightly tapped the primer bulb (just to give it periodic squirts of gas) and the RPMS jumped up to where they were before.

I have a question.

Let's say it was misadjusted. It sounds like it is reaching full RPM without additional air/ fuel misture.

If we open the needle valve to let in more fuel, won't we be running even higher in RPM, possibly ouside design specs?

How do you reduce the RPM?

I guess that one would need to readjust the throttle linkage to reduce the RPMs back with designed specs.
I guess I answered my own question. Duh. Think a little.

Ok, Is it worth me adjusting the mixture or bite the bullet and bring it in for service, not knowing if that really is the problem?

How do I do this? Done it on a mower but I want to make sure I do it correctly on this. So far my old Lawn Boy is pushing 22 years!

Thanks to all who have responded.

I would assume that if this is a week old snow thrower that the carb isn't adjustable. I could be wrong because I haven't seen a new thrower in a while. For it to have a mixture adjusting screw- it would have the power screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. Does yours? Changing that setting won't increase RPM's beyond what it was designed for. It may allow it to have enough fuel to run properly. The carb does the metering inside. Your fuel should be fresh- which means 30 days old max for a new engine. If there is a fuel vave under the tank, make sure it is completely open. If all above is correct, than we'll assume it needs carb service.

You are probably turning the idle mix screw which isn't really going to affect the engine when it's actually doing some work.
It sounds like the carb main jet is restricted.
Take it back and have THEM fix it.

If you live in an area where new blowers are hard to find, there may be a reason that one was available?

Once Lowes put them on sale, they went like hotcakes. We also had earlier snow than usual and so more throwers were sold earlier than ever so supply at this time is very low.

I am thinking of bringing it in on Saturday to a warranty repair location they gave me.

Being new, I do not always trust guys doing work. I have had bad experiences with guys 'tuning' up my outdoor equiptment and so was hoping to find it was something else. Also, I like to know what could be the problem before work is done. The place I am going to, I have never been to so hopefully they will be good. I suspect they will be.

If anyone else has suggestions between now and then, I would be glad to hear them.

Thanks for the assistance.

Frank

Bill kapaun

The one I got was new in a sealed box. I have a new Lowes in the area and where they put the store, few know it is there so they have had stock lasting longer than others for this reason. Most if not all the others sold out of stock and were down to floor models. this one had the one I purchased, an open box and the floor model. I did the assembly myself.

The unit overall looks good, expecially for the money. Next time, I should buy these things from places that specialize in power equiptment. Many of them said when I expressed interest in purchasing a thrower that they will make sure all is fine with it before I get it. Most even offered free delivery.

Once bitten twice shy.....
Frank

I'd definitely have the "authorized" repair service fix it. That establishes a "paper trail" in case you have any "Lemon Law" type issues.
I tried to look up what engine it had and all I could find was 179CC OHV. That makes me think it's probably a Tecumseh, which has gone out of business, or a Chinese engine.

Not meaning to alarm you, but I'd document all maintenance performed etc., just in case. Make sure it's performed "on schedule". Save receipts for the oil etc.

Keep us updated- Curious minds.........

Dropped it off Sat and they are suppose to look at it today.

In looking in their parts catalog online, it refers to this being a MTD engine 365 SUB.

It is suppose to have a iron sleeve.

ON the engine it does say 'Made in China' so I would have to lean that way.

On the other hand it does have a HQ808 stamped on it (seems to be similar to the nomenclature of a Tecumseh) and Lowes was selling a Yard Machines in red that had a 5 HP Tecumseh that was rather similar. The only difference was that the choke operated in the opposet manner and it did say Tecumseh.

Could be a Chinese knock- off of a Tecumseh...

Since the Chinese have a Honda "knockoff", I imagine they could fill a niche for the anti Honda people?

Keep us updated! It'd be interesting to learn how well these engines are supported if you did need a new carb or???

Well, I got word when I got home that it was done.
They said it was a dirty carb. Cleaned it out and they said all is now fine. It is suppose to snow tonight into tomorrow so we'll see how it works out.

I am not sure if MTD actually ate the service call or these guys are that nice but they said it will be no charge for the work.

I'll let you know how we make out soon.

Either way, I'll be using these guys for my work in the future as well as small engine equipment purchases. Thanks guys at Four Seasons Power Equipment!

Well I got it back and there was some stuff in the carb, not much though. Guys at Four Seasons said the bigger issue is that the manual has an error. This is what the manual said:

"The choke control is found on the rear of the engine and is activated by rotating the knob clockwise. Activating the choke control closes the choke plate on the carburetor and aids in starting the engine"

Later they tell you to activate the choke and , once warmed up to turn it off. They got it backwards. To turn on the choke, you turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Well, I was starting it with the choke off ( still started on the first or second pull - very nice) and slowly engaged the choke as it wasmed up. This is why I couldn't go beyond 1/4 rotation.

Hopefully someone at MTD will catch this and update the manual.....

Today it snowed 3-4 inches and I must say, now that I know how to operate it properly, it purred like a kitten. No sputtering or anything once warmed up (about 5-10 min - amount of time to dust off the cars). Nice and smooth and not too loud (Unfortunately I do not have a point of reference to other snow throwers but based on other yard equipment, it is not too bad). For only a 5 HP motor, it threw the snow with the deflector on about 10-20 ft. I couldn't let it go too far otherwise I would be throwing it into my neighbors driveway. On the other hand, the snow today was light, not our typical wet heavy stuff.

I think I will very satisfied with this thrower.

Thanks to all that offered advice.

Frank

Thanks for your follow up. Remember to do that break in oil change and stabilize your fuel.

Will do on that oil change. I have about 1 hour on it now and will wait for the end of February or so. This hasn't been too snowy a year.

some additional info on the choke:

The choke decal show a curved wedge which is narrowest at the top and widest at the bottom. It curves around the left side of the knob. At the bottom is a picture of a partially opened butterfly valve. To me if I want the valve closed, I would point the knob to the narrowest section, since the picture shows the valve open at the other end, hence I would be turning it clockwise. Unfortunately this too is counter intuitive. It is suppose to be turned the other way. I guess the symbol should have been put at the top, at the narrow end and a closed valve at the larger bottom end or they should have labeled one end 'FULL' and the other 'OFF', just like they do in the instructions. Ironically, the manual has the sticker displayed as a mirror image of what is on the machine....

you can get the manual here (I think)

http://lawnandgarden.owneriq.net/manuals/mfg/troybilt/2410.html

On page 11 they talk about the choke and its operation.
Page 14 discusses starting.

On an engine without an oil filter, I'd do the first oil change at 2 hours and another one at 5 more hours.

I rather be a bit too anal about it, rather than not enough.