rsp: Two things to check 1st the shear pin in the drive axle , secondly the friction disc condition and setting . If this all looks fine then the drive belt tension might be to loose . Take off both the bottom and top inspection covers and inspect again thoroughly . There are adjustment points on the bar handle cable and also on the belt belt tension-er pulley area . Let us know what you find second time around.

If the wheels move some times on their own, even on occasion with power could it still be the shear pin? I would think if the pin is missing they wouldn't spin using the traction drive.

Also I do not believe I have a drive belt, I think my model uses a chain. I took the belt cover off and I have one belt that rotates fast while running and another belt that is for the Auger Drive. I believe there is a chain way underneath for the traction drive.

The friction disc sounds like that could be possible but I am not sure I even know what that is, or where it is and how to get to it. OMG we are supposed to get 6" of snow tomorrow...not looking forward to shoveling a very long driveway!

Thanks for your help!

You should have a belt primary that ewalk referred to. Your owners manual should cover basic adjustments. You could also post the equipment model #...

The belt that rotates fast while running is the one that turns the friction wheel.

What you need to do now is empty most of the gas from the tank, tip the blower up in the air on its front end. Use a block of wood, if necessary, under the auger housing to safely hold it from going too far front while standing.

You will now see the bottom cover. Remove the 4 or 6 screws and expose the guts. You'll see the drive disc. Check for torn rubber on the driven disc or oil/grease on the aluminum disc.

When you pull in the lever's handle, the driven rubber disc should make good hard contact with the drive disc. If it doesn't, adjust the cables. While you're in there, put a little grease on the hex shaft, upon which the driven disc moves.

My Craftsman snow blower only saw a few storms and that happened to me. I removed the back cover and found that the rubber came off the friction wheel. I put it back on, but now its always touching the drive disk. Could it be on inside out? and should be pushed in further on the friction pully?

sue: The rubber is usually sandwiched between the two piece hub . There should only be approx 3/16 - 1/4" of exposed rubber which contacts the friction disc . Normally with the handle bar released there should be about 1/4" free play with a new wheel . You can adjust down further for wear on the cable if required .

Is the bolt that holds the drive sprocket/gear onto the axle a shear pin or actually a hardened steel bolt? Mine keeps snapping, but I think its b/c I am using aluminum bolts. Seems to me it should be a hardened steal bolt in there. This bolt was fine for 10 years of use. before it broke.

This bolt is a shear design low grade class bolt . Do not use high tensile grade bolts for this application , the bolt is by design the sacrificial lamb .

I had the same problem with my Craftsman. The bolt that holds on the drive gear sheared off. It was a HARDENED bolt. However, the shear pins on the wheels and drive shaft did not sheer off. Go figure. I replaced with with a hardened bolt because that was what was in there. I picked up the exact same bolt at a hardware store for 65 cents each (I got 2). Took me all of 10 minuted to fix it.

I saw your postings here because I searched for my own problem. I have an Ariens single stage snowblower ... everything spins okay and motor runs well but when you hit a pile of snow, the flappers throw a little snow, but only under light load ... the machine doesn't seem to "ramp up" and force the flappers into higher rpm ... they just seem to stop. In fact, I can almost stop them with my hand while they are spinning. I believe the opposite should occur. Any ideas?

Alb: It would appear that either your belt is very loose or your shear pins or gear drive has failed . Check for sacrificial bolts or roll pins that have sheared 1st , once you have verified that the belt has sufficient tension . Worst case scenario is that your auger drive drive has broken . In this case you will have to remove and inspect further .

I have recently replaced both drive belts and the friction drive wheel on my sears blower. DUMB mistake # 1 did not test after repairs. Problem now is it only wants to drive in reverse it's not enjoyable to have to push a machine that has a motor . Got any ideas on what I may have gotten crossed up?

I have a craftsman snow blower and when I put it in gear Holden nozzle don't I can hold the wheel in the tires won't spin what would that be I can hold it with my hand so that so I know that tires won't spend

you should be able to hold it right

that little thing in the middle of the drive shaft does that ever go bad

is there a shear pin or something

in that little box on the drive shaft in the middle of it let the clutch or something

I had the same problem today, the drive would not engage. If I held the machine up running, the wheels would spin but without resistance. This was the first time problem in 38 years on a Sears machine. baymee above had the solution for me.

Using a dry cloth, wiped clean the rubber on the drive disc and also on the surface of the 10” or so aluminum disc. The rubber makes contact with the large disc for drive. Once clean, the machine would engage as normal.

Ken , when you lubricate the drive chain or linkages some may contaminate the friction disc. . Also rubber from the belts can contaminate the mating disc surface . Brake clean spray is a good cleaner to use .

ssewalk1. Thanks for the brake cleaner suggestion, will do that in the few days. We just had 18” of snow and had to open up the path for the dogs to run