Yeah, I know, there's no "T" in soil...... Now where's that edit tab?

I'd say your ag extension advisor should take some continuing education credits in organic gardening ;)

Seriously, they've made some fairly safe recommendations. I have a couple of quibbles with county extension (and university) tests in general. First, many of them don't provide information on secondary and micronutrients. Elements like calcium, magnesium and sulfur are important and can be limiting factors in crop production. Second, their recommendations are almost always geared toward the "feed the plant" philosophy. There's nothing inherently wrong with this. However, there is an increasing awareness of the benefits of sustainable "feed the soil" gardening and the aforementioned institutions are doing a disservice to those who wish to go the "organic" route.

While your soil pH is a bit high at 7.3, mine has settled in at 7.2 after many years of adding compost and other forms of organic matter to the soil and that does not seem to be much of a problem for my plants. None of the plants appear to be suffering from Iron Deficiency Anemia and with the P and K at High Optimal levels and the Ca and Mg in balance food crops grow quite well with good flavor, much better then anything from the grocers.
How much organic matter is in your soil?

I'd not be overly concerned about adding anything recommended since those numbers are very common with almost every soil test from the Extension Service and are pretty minimal amounts.

Thanks folks! kimmsr, I'm not sure how to quantify the amount of compost in my garden soil. I have a 5' bucket on my front loader that I use to haul chicken manure/pine shavings/ diatomaceous earth. I usually add 4-5 buckets twice a year to a 1200 sq ft garden. I hauled in 8 ton of good black, river bottom soil in recent years along with several ton of sand.

These simple soil tests include one to learn about humus levels in your soil. They may be of some help.
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Thanks kimmsr! Good info here. I'll certainly give it a try!

I couldn't get past your handle. Hi Handsome. What was your question?