Can you provide any good close pics of the matters described? Sound like the bar has been pinched, bent inward related to guiding. My arm and I love my electric saws since recent wood has been plentiful on the curbs (cut to City Specs for Bulk pick-up monthly). Most trimmers will separate brush and cut med dia wood as firewood length.

The pinched area Etc should be easy to spot. Plus, thinking back when it could have happened. On bars with good sprockets, I will usually put the damaged area in a vise just below the track to protect the spot weld/ bonding. Then adjust the track with a chisel to eliminate any binding.

I thought I saw some slightest bend in the bar,and I then gave it some pressure over my knee. I Also did my best to "open" what seemed to be a tight spot in the groove..right around the "E" closest to the tip. Next thing I knew..after many hours of pounding, asking the wife "does it look level? etc,...the chain fell into place.
I then finished cutting a 16" wide Ash branch with my 14" Homelite. Just took my time,used plenty of oil...and cut around as best I could to finally get it just thin enough to snap with a big prybar. I was worried all that weight would fall on the the bar and wedge.
Plus...I gave that motor a half hour rest between major cuts.
So thanks for the help...and anybody reading this? CLEAN..those saws have a problem with sawdust mixing with oils and packing down. Clean,the gears and the grooves in the bar-- remove the chain.
Thanx agin!

stanofh:

"I tried a chain I had from an old chainsaw that burnt out years ago...and it too wouldn't sit flat into the groove."

1. Did the sprocket at the motor and bar match with the 2nd old chain from a gas saw good? Seating down into the sprockets full half circles vs enough to get the chain moving due to tension vs fitting??

2. I switched from a self sharpening (chisel) chain on an Electric Mac and had challenge finding the non self sharpening (Barracuda chain) to match the motor's sprocket. The laser tip bars that I used d/n have sprockets to match.

3. IMO the Barracuda chain is more aggressive cutting vs the Chisel (due to designs) and stone was removed.

4. As you mentioned: If bars/chains/saws are cleaned and maintained you should get good service. I was taught to clean after every use. I learned with minimal cutting in good green wood the cleaning w/n as critical on my saws. I also learned to observe for chips blowing out or look for oil or restrictions that will affect the cooling on gas and electric (with gas more critical).

Keep Your Saws Happy!

This post was edited by loger on Sat, Mar 8, 14 at 16:58

I inherited my Dad's electric chain saw . I always looked down on it as a jim crack until I gave it a try. It is a good little tool. I have a 50' cord plugged into a GFI pigtail.. It is restful for bucking up small stuff. Instead of dragging out the Farm Boss. I keep the teeth sharp with a 3/16 file..

I had one electric chainsaw that was all metal vs any plastic. A Milwaukee 18â bar, too much power and weight in the 70s. My plan was to convert it to a metal cutting chop saw before giving the Monster away. The 14â Makita Chop Saws became reasonable in cost early 80s allowed me to go in that direction (for clean cutting various metals on and off the base).

I have not seen a small plastic 10-16â electric chainsaw that d/n look to be built cheap. I have not seen one that w/n do a reasonable or good job if maintained and used at its cutting rate/range. I wish I had known before the last two seasons that some could do good jobs (around home on approx 12â dia wood). The last two seasons I have had to run fresh treated fuel in my gas saws just to know they were OK vs a need.

Attached is a typical job of my 14â Mac Electric chainsaw to re-cut longer firewood. Wood that was stored longer than approx 16âÂÂ, cut shorter to burn for heat or hold coals.