As far as I know the generator engine governor is set to run at one speed only with no idle.

My father(belongs to him) said that it idled down and when he added a load it would run up and power the equipment. He could have been mistaken and I dont have much experience on these.

Weird to me I guess, there is a large nut used to adjust the throttle not the normally seen cable...
When it is running the idle screw is in the same position. There is a spring that keeps it from returning to an adjustable position.

Here's the link, click on "Download PDF'. Find your parts in the IPL and then you can refer to each part by the item number if you want to be "exact".

Oooops! I got a phone call and had a senior moment. I forgot to insert the link before I clicked "Submit".

Here is a link that might be useful: IPL PDF (PDF of IPL?)

My neighbor has an 11hp Briggs generator that I worked on last week. It runs at a constant speed all the time period.

That's been my experience with "portable emergency power generators" as well. I refer to portable generators designed to provide power at 120/240 VAC. The reason these need to run at a constant RPM is because the output Hertz (frequency, or cycles per second of AC) needs to be as close to 60 as possible for AC electric motors and electronic appliances/devices. About the only "generators" I know of that REV up when the load is applied (but run at low idle otherwise) are engine driven welders. I have seen some of those where you had available 120/240 VAC outputs and you can choose for the engine to run at governed high RPM by flipping a switch when you wanted to use those outlets.

Sometimes theres a mis perception in judging the engine speed.
Although the engine is running at the same speed, when a load is applied, the throttle opens up. The exhaust gets more of a "bark" to it, the heavier the load.

Yes, it's true - some generators do have an "idle" circuit. I have a B&S generator that has a switch that you can turn on to let the engine idle if there is no load on the generator. It is a contractor-grade generator that I suppose could be used to power something like a compressor. When the compressor is not running the generator doesn't need to run at full power. It works quite nicely to save fuel if you are not constantly requiring voltage.

The engine must run at a constant speed to maintain 60 Hertz.
It sounds as if the the RPM is varying as a load is applied but it is remaining near constant. The exception to this is an inverter type generator such as the more pricey Yamahas and Hondas that doesn't depend upon the engine speed to maintain 60 HZ.

I have a Troybuilt 5550 generator. It starts on the first pull and runs fine on choke. After a warm up I try to take the choke off and it starts to run crappy and won't run smoothly. Obviously it is too lean. I tried cleaning out the carb with carb cleaner spray through all of the passages but it's still the same. What am I missing? I was a mechanic for 22 years but don't have any feeler gages any more, so I just eyeballed the valve clearances. Could that be it? What else can I do to the carb? There is no mixture screws at all that I can see outside the carb. The gas is totally fresh and I've had the bowl off more than once to check for sediment(which there is none). Any ideas? Anyone?

Thank the EPA. Did you tear the entire carb apart and poke, prod, and spray?

II pulled apart everything that I thought would come apart. I did watch a video that shows someone running a very thin wire through the high speed jet and other passages. I didn't do that because I am not sure I have anything that thin. Is it possible to run a thin wire through the low speed circuit? I fear that may be where I might have some restriction..... since the engine seems to run fine at high speed on choke, I'm guessing its more on the low speed/idle circuit...?

your engine documentation should provide you with a carb part #... using same, procure a rebuild kit for it.

remove carb from engine. take plenty of pix for reassy purposes. take carb completely apart. soak overnite in liquid carb cleaner.

using a small dia brass wire and a magnifier, probe EVERY orifice/passageway in each component, blowing same out with compressed air to clean out dislodged particles. make sure each component is fully clean/dry.

re-asm carb using only fresh valves/seats/gaskets from rebuild kit. reasm to engine and test. Name of the game = work clean, follow carb rebuild kit instr. good luck.