IF the fuel solenoid isn't working, the engine isn't going to run.
When 12V is applied to it, a "pin" is retracted and unblocks the Main Jet in the carb.

It's used to prevent after fire (backfire) or run on when shutting off the engine, by blocking fuel through the MJ.

Bill may very well be going in the right direction if the solenoid is all taped up. A thinner 1/2" wrench will unscrew the solenoid in question. If the solenoid isn't working, one can nip the stem - maybe even get by w/ removing the little rubber cap from the stem and try it out for test purposes. No bottom jet, but unless it has sat a spell, usually cleaning the bowl and being certain you have good flow though the inlet valve usually is what they need. The carb # is 12853178s, 1275703s is the basic repair kit w/ gaskets and inlet valve. They now have an inlet seat/ valve repair kit- but it most cases it won't be needed.

I'm not familiar with these "newer" type carburetors with the solenoid under the bowl. How do you remove the bowl? is it simply a counter clockwise turn? I've got a couple of other carburetors similar to this one with the solenoid underneath but different mount. Are the bowls interchangeable?

Thx again for your help

As tomplum said.....*"A thinner 1/2" wrench will unscrew the solenoid in question."*
The solenoid is what secures the bowl to the carb body.

I'm looking for a little less spend on a drive belt than purchasing direct from Honda. Any idea on what other belts out there would replace Honda part# 76181-763-a02 or 76182-751-023?
thx in adavance

that little trick on the fuel solenoid worked PERFECT! You all are awesome...thx.

Now i have a wiring issue for ya. There is a yellow, black and white wire coming from the motor. They all are hot when the motor is running. I have an orange and red lead coming from the ignition that needs to hook into these. Any idea what goes to what? The red wire from the ignition is hot when the key is in the on position. the orange seems to be dead.
thx in advance

IF you Google the belt #'s, you can find a few links, including at least one that gives dimensions. (Outdoor Power)

Are you trying to put this motor on a Honda tractor or??

You might give the make, model etc. tractor and POSSIBLY someone has a schematic for it and can give you an accurate answer instead of guessing.

The RED wire from the key switch probably goes to the DC output of the alternator.
Orange MIGHT be lights????

It sounds like you have the 3 AMP charging/70 Watt lighting stator??
IF so
Black is 3 AMP DC charging.
Yellow is AC VOLTS for lights
White would be the kill wire to the coil????

Better pull the shroud to verify though.
You don't want to melt anything.
You could probably verify the AC DC circuits with a volt meter.
I don't know what you should get from the kill wire. I have a hunch it might be a bunch of AC "noise", since the coil is a rapidly discharging transformer.

it's going on a Craftsman skull. What a fantastic motor. I just started flipping riders and this is one of the nicer motors I've come across. Traded one of my 8hp snowblower motors for it......good trade as they say. Can't believe how quick these riders sell vs. snowblowers. Guess it would have helped if we had any snow this year....lol....utah.
Thx again to your team for helping me out.

Have no idea what a "skull" is?

IF you post the Sears 917.xxxxxx number then one can identify the tractor and hopefully have a schematic.

Craftsman 42" Turbo Cool #917259520

Also, starter doesn't engage everytime. sometimes it just spins. hit it with a screwdriver and it worked...lol

Can't find the schedmatic. The manuals available quit ONE page before the schematic!!!
O riginal engine for that was a Briggs 28N707-0173-01

It had the 3 AMP DC charging and 5 AMP AC headlight outputs.

The RED wire from the key switch would connect to the DC charging from the alternator.
The Orange would be for lighting circuit from the alternator.

Most likely, the key switch positions are-
OFF
Run w/lights
Run/ no lights
Start
Knowing that, you could use the OHM Meter to verify that the ORANGE does indeed go to the lights. (Or jumper 12V to it and manipulate the light switch.

There would also be a wire (Black probably) that would be connected to the M terminal of the key switch, that is grounded in the OFF position ONLY. (else no connection)
That would connect to the kill wire of the ignition coil.
Verify first with OHM meter.

This manual SHOULD be virtually identical.
Just not sure what the difference is between a 259520 & 259521.

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807201.pdf

Man that was a tough egg to crack but we got it.
from the ignition red went to black, orange went to yellow, and black went to white.
Weird as all 3 wires were showing positive and the volt meter was identifying yellow as the ground....but didn't turn out that way.
Nice mower, will list this weekend after sharpening blades.

Thanks again for your help