What are the engine model #s? Did you have the battery load tested? It's also a good idea to clean the battery terminals and all 4 battery cable ends to know where you are starting.

sounds like the valves need adjusting to me. the 1 1/4 turn is a sure sign of it. post the actual model number from teh engine and i am sure one of the guys will post you the directions to fix it. or you can take it to a shop, if they don't knwo about adjusting the valves, find a new shop. the reason i say this is some less than honest shops here have a list of expensive items they replace before finally adjusting the valves, esp with female customers.

you can actually do it yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined. it takes less than 15 minutes to do.

Ooops...sorry I should have posted them!
Model: 42A907
Type: 2238 E1
Code: 9808205 B

Battery terminals are clean and I had it checked at a local battery place, so I don't know if it was load tested or not, but I took them at their word that it was ok (It's an Everstart brand). I just had to repair the battery cable terminals on my pickup truck so I've been through the whole thing with that and did the same thing with the mower battery (steel wool brush and baking soda paste)

They replaced the starter, with a new one or another used one?

This is likely either a 42 series or a 46 series engine. Everything needs to be right for the starter to turn these properly. These starters are operating at max.

IF they used another used starter, these tend to wear out the top bushing, check for excessive side to side play putting 2 - 3 drops of oil where the starter shaft exits the end/mounting plate may help. Also check your wiring, good ground for instance as suggested above, clean all battery cable connections. Sometimes larger battery cables help these.

This is a common complaint. The most recent one turned out to have excessive carbon build up in the cylinder heads. This raises the compression ratio putting additional load on an already overloaded starter.

After re-reading your post and seeing your situation, I suggest you try a tank or two of gasoline with SeaFoam mixed per instructions on the can. This will burn out excessive carbon build up in the heads IF that is the problem, assuming you are able to get the engine started. SeaFoam is generally available at auto parts stores, farm supply stores and I THINK, Wal-Mart.

One caution, I would not continually load the starter this way or it will fail.

If none of this seems to work, do you know if the engine had been worked on prior to this problem starting, a valve job in particular, you might want to ask the previous owner about that, this is important.

Walt Conner

"sounds like the valves need adjusting to me. the 1 1/4 turn is a sure sign of it."

"you can actually do it yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined. it takes less than 15 minutes to do."

Not on this engine. From the description, this is a flat head horizontally opposed twin. Valve adjustment is NOT a common problem on these except under conditions I asked about above.

Walt Conner

OK, I see my guess about the engine model was correct, you posted the number before I got my message in.

Walt Conner

1)Check the ground connection where the negative wire from the battery is connected to the chassis to insure you have a good connection.

2)Check starter motor for play/wear in the top bushing as described by Walt Conner above. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I had to remove the starter, and remove the drive gear from the shaft before I could clearly see that the bushing was worn! They do not sell replacement bushings. I purchased one from a store that sold bearings but had to grind it down to make it fit. Good luck!

I will try all of these suggestions tomorrow after I get home from work...thank you everyone! Also regarding them not selling replacement bushings, does that mean I'd just have to buy a whole new starter? And Walt, if I do what you suggested: "check for excessive side to side play putting 2 - 3 drops of oil where the starter shaft exits the end/mounting plate may help." and that does help, does that mean the bushings are wearing out and I will have to replace the starter anyhow? (I guess I'm asking if that's a diagnostic tool or if that's a repair?) Thanks again!

"Also regarding them not selling replacement bushings, does that mean I'd just have to buy a whole new starter?"

You didn't answer whether the "different starter" they put on was a new one or a used one. The end/mounting plate can be bought with the bushing in it and just replace that. As said above, while the bushings are "not replaceable", you can usually get one that is the right ID at a good hardware store, farm supply store and probably auto parts store. All that I have found have an OD that is too large and are too long. No problem for me since I have a metal turning lathe and other machine tools making replacement fairly simple. I am not sure I would recommend you undertake it. I have been able to tell about the bushing by taking hold of the end of the starter shaft and pulling side to side. Might want to ask esemilio above how he did it but I wouldn't jump into that until you know that is the problem.

"putting 2 - 3 drops of oil where the starter shaft exits the end/mounting plate may help." and that does help, does that mean the bushings are wearing out and I will have to replace the starter anyhow?"

No, that means the starter bushing was dry making the starter harder to turn over under load. The loose bushing is another mater.

As I said, IF the engine will start, try the SeaFoam before getting involved in repairing/replacing anything.

And you didn't answer about whether the engine had valve repair before the problem started.

Walt Conner

I don't really know much about the mowers history. I purchased it from an elderly man that had to move to a retirement home and couldn't use it anymore and HE had purchased it used. I can't contact him now to ask him any more questions and honestly I don't think he is that clear with his memory anymore anyhow. All he told me was that "the guy replaced the starter" so I have no idea if it was with a new one or a refurb. or what. Also I have no knowlede of any other kind of repair on it previously regarding the valves. Frustrating going into this blind!

"Also I have no knowlede of any other kind of repair on it previously regarding the valves"

OK, the reason I asked about this is because this engine does not have the valve adjustment problem as previously mentioned which is associated with OHV engines EXCEPT if someone has done a valve "repair" job and left too much clearance due to poor workmanship. Excessive clearance on the Intake Valves will cause difficulty in the starter turning this engine. I wouldn't worry about this until all other possibilities have been explored because it is NOT an easy fix on this engine.

You should be able to tell from looking if the starter were replaced new recently. IF it has been sometime, it will be dirty and probably not be able to tell.

I am still unclear if you are able to get the engine running at all.

Walt Conner

I was able to tell that the bushing was worn by taking hold of the end of the starter shaft and pulling side to side. That is why you should remove it to check it. NOTE: You should be able to unscrew the bolt holding the starter mover under the flywheel with out taking the flywheel off. Go slowly with a box wrench then use the fingers when it is loose.

The bushings available at my local hardware and Farm&Fleet store were all too long and the outside diameter slightly larger. I found one with the correct length and inside diameter at a bearing shop; however the outside diameter was a little too big. I ground it down with sandpater-it is not easy, but it worked.

You can buy the flange with the bushing in it but for the price you have to pay, you can buy a new starter on E-bay!

I would not mess with valves until you are are sure it is not a bad connection or the starter!

This link to a previous thread will provide some of the trouble shooting technique for the same problem (& similar engine). Hope it helps!

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg012155378726.html

FIXED IT!!!! It's alive!!! I spent this afternoon cleaning the battery terminals/cables til they shone and then chasing down wiring all throughout. I disconnected the cable to the starter and cleaned it very well too and reconnected. I'm not sure but the bolt didn't seem quite as tight on it as to others, so maybe this was the problem. I don't know exactly what I did to make it work but I jiggled every wire and un-did then re-did every connection, recharged the battery to be sure it was 100% and then tried it. It backfired pretty heartily when it caught but it DID start and I was able to run it around the yard (in the rain, haha!) a few times. I started it again several more times and although there is still a bit of a hestitation when I turn the key, it's not as bad as it had been. Now that I know I can get it to turn over, I'll look for that Seafoam product that was mentioned and use it. Thank you all so much for taking the time to advice to help me. If anyone needs any dental advice...just ask! (I'm a hygienist) LOL!

"If anyone needs any dental advice...just ask! (I'm a hygienist) LOL!"

Well I do need a new partial plate.

Walt Conner

Some of you might recall a short while back I was working on a 42A707 with the same symtoms. I checked the solenoid, and starter, and cleaned all the carbon out of the cylinder heads, checked the valve clearances, which were out. I actually bought new valves and seals and installed them, same problem. I finally drained all of the oil and tore the engine down. What I found was that the #2 cylinders rod cap was loose (very loose, I took it out with my fingers) and the rod and crank journal had been tore up. If I knew how I would post a photo of it.Anyway's not to say it isn't something else, Just a could be !!