60 Days Left Till I need my Greenhouse functional, I thought I would Post an Update of how its going.

I will refer alot to part numbers, so for someone who has not built one of these, this is probably gonna be all greek to you. For those who have built one, these numbers are probably burned into the back of your brain!

First off, my Kit came without instructions (Purchased in april of 2006), but when they sent me the instructions, they said "Updated 05/06", so some of my Problems may be related to the instructions being newer than the Kit.

So far other than the Instructions, the only part missing is one Number 32 brace

First off the whole Part number 7 issue, the new instructions do not say to find the difference between 7a and 7b. But I did find out later there was a difference in my kit. The holes on the top and the bottoms of the stud were all the same, but the placement of the middle holes do vary, and their placement effect which number 30 brace goes on top on the sides, but not really a big deal.

I am just about to start framing up the roof.

The Frame without the roof is extremely solid, I am quite impressed with the strength so far

I have not decided if I am gonna build it on the ground, and lift it up, or do it as another builder did, on top of the frame.

When I built the foundation/floorplates parts 43/44 did not fit flush when bolted togethor with parts 45 and 46, so I had to redrill the holes, to remove the gaps between the floorplates.

I used Gardenerwantabe's Corner Reinforcements, but cut the angle aluminum, and Square tubing 12 inches long, since the stock was 48 inches long.

I used Oray's short EMT tubing cuts to reinforce the Studs to the floorplates.

The floorplates themselves are imbedded in a 10-1 mix of Dirt and cement(This was recomended to me by another member here to create a Barn Floor), which will be floor of the greenhouse. (Yes I actually followed the instructions for the foundation, and actualy buried the floorplates, rather than bolting them to wood) (But then I live in the desert, our dirt here is very dry, only 2.5 inches of rain so far this year)

The instructions still incorrectly state to put the top door track on the Inside of the numnber 7 studs.

I used a 10 foot steel wall building stud to reinforce the uper pair of 31 rear braces. (I put the 31's in the channel of the stud, and then bolted the 31's to the wall through the stud.)

My 78's and 79's are square tubing, rather than angled aluminum, which makes for an interesting mess.

The Instructions actually call for the top 31's to both be attached to the lower holes on the part 79 reinfocements, which makes for an interesting bend, but if you put one of the 31's in the top hole, then it blocks the 80 diagonal from connecting in the corner.

The other odd thing was that the holes in the rest of the number 31's were all spaced wrong (I know this usualy means you did something wrong when all the holes are wrong, but I checked all my studs and they are all perfectly vertical).

The odd thing is that the holes all lined up if I placed the 31's at about a 20 degree angle, it looks funny, but I think being diagonal gives the rear structure more support.

On a side note, all the bolts have been the right lengths, but the instructions still do not indicate the correct number of bolts to slide into the Studs (it should state, 4 long on all the Number 14 studs in the middle), but it does indicate the correct bolt placement for the End studs, (Long bolt, Longer bolt, Long bolt)

I can not get full functionality out of the Harbor freight Automatic vent openers I purchased (I purchased five, and none are working for me), it might be an altitude thing, I am over 3000 feet here, and I can not get them to close at any temperature (Including in my freezer).

Whats gonna happen over the next 60 days

Build the roof and finish the frame

All four vents will be on the Leeward side of the roof

Put two 10 foot EMT tubes as cross braces ala Oray.

I am also thinking about two 12 foot EMT braces to go Lengthwise. (all this bracing could also be used as described below)

Seal the ends of the panels with 100 MPH speed tape

Put thin weather stripping on panels

Install the panels using Caulk and triple the amount of glazing clips

(Another side note here, the new instructions, show them using some new fangled glazing clip (Looks like it might be a peice of plastic)(Perhaps someone who has bought a newer kit could let us know)

Panels that will be experiencing the brunt of our winds, will also be getting some self taping screws.

Install a louver vent (Thanks for the Link Oray)

Install a Box fan with thermostat control ($18 from Lowes)

Move in Water drums as heat sinks

aquire shelving from Lowes (They have a great 24"x48" 4 shelf unit that can be assembled as 4 seperate shelves 18" tall, two of these would provide me plenty of shelving, albight 18" off the ground, but since I will be in a chair that should be just the right height.)

Install a timer controled (20 seconds every 5 minutes during the heat of the day) misting system with one line going along the apex of the roof, and perhaps one line on each side about 2 feet from the walls, suspended from the emt tubing.

Install the Timer controled drip system.

Oh yeah, I need to move the plants into the greenhouse!

My Biggest hurdle this winter will be to keep the greenhouse cool during the daytime this winter (My cheapy, leaky poly tarp greenhouse hit 120 degrees during the daytime last January.

I am wondering if perhaps Shadecloth on the roof year round might be mandatory.

I have a feeling the next 60 days are gonna go realy quick. It is hard to imagine winter temperatures as I am outside working in temps that are still hiting 100 degrees!

If you got this Far, thanks for reading my Ramblings, and if you have any comments or suggestions, feel free to pipe in!

Overall I love this greenhouse for the price $480 with the coupon, about $300 of accessories and reinforcemnts, and I am going to have a fully automated 120 Square foot greenhouse for under $1000